Single barrel FJ40 carb

MDH33

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A friend of mine recently aquired a stock '66 FJ40 and I'm in the process of helping get it up and running again. It belonged to his uncle who bought it new in NM back in '67 and it has lived it's whole life in the desert. Pretty solid except for the driver and passenger floors where leaves and water had collected over the past couple of years because it was no longer being driven.

We were going to send the single barrel carb off to Jim C to have it rebuilt, but he's backed up 5 weeks... So, I figure since it's a one barrel I'm probably capable enough to rebuild it myself. I don't think the linkage is correct and the choke and hand throttle cables are broken. I was hoping someone here with an original early carb could take a couple of photos, or let me shoot some reference photos. Also, is there a rebuild kit available for these and does anyone have an early FSM manual I could photocopy some pages from?

Thanks. :cheers:
 

treerootCO

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I have 10 or so, rebuilt 4 of them so far. The Keyster kits are the only ones I have found. The last time I was out in Cali I stopped by SOR and picked up a few. The carbs are incredibly simple and that is why I like them. DO NOT dip the entire carb to get the glass window off. The asian window is blue on the early ones and the carb dip will strip that off. I can take pics or you can swing by after work today. I also have a collection of early FSM with all the info you need to rebuild them. One thingI have learned is that there is a metering jet that in not included in any of the kits and throughout the years there are two different styles of the large site glass carbs. The kit will only match one of these andI haven't figured out if it is the early style or the later style. Either way the kit will have most of the parts needed but not all.
 

treerootCO

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have you checked out root45?

http://www.root45.com/tech2.html

that guy really needs to update his website but he scanned in a 66FSM for your viewing pleasure.:D
 

MDH33

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So, Mike hooked me up with a rebuild kit and lots of info so I dove into the carb and started the rebuild. The site glass is covered in epoxy of some sort, apparently to seal a cracked glass. The epoxy is covering everything including the glass holder and screws. The float chamber looks kind of warped too, which might explain how the glass cracked.

Anyone have a 1 bbl I can scavenge some parts off of? This is from a 66/67 FJ40 and the site glass has the gray Aisan logo.

Thanks.

:thumb:
 

wesintl

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I could look. it took me a couple years to aquire the spare that i have....

anything for trade or sale?
 

MDH33

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Thanks Wes, let me know if you have the glass assembly, that would be great. Project is on hold until I can get it running and moving under it's own power.


:cheers:
 

MDH33

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So I was able to get all the epoxy off the carb body and get the broken site glass out. I'm going to try to straighten the warped float bowl.

Anyone have a spare site glass and holder??

Thanks.

:thumb:
 

treerootCO

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I looked for the extra glass I had. I know it is in the garage somewhere.
 

MDH33

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Thanks Mike. Would you let me borrow one? It would let me get the carb back on and continue working while I keep hunting for a replacement glass. :D
 

treerootCO

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None of the parts carbs have glass. The new carb from the '67 is on the '64 now. I need to move the 64 tonight to clean up the leaves under it then I could be persuaded to loan out the glass.
 

MDH33

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Looks like I'm going to be needing an intake manifold as well. After scraping off several layers of gaskets and sealer, the carb manifold interface is cracked.

Still needing the carb site glass too. :)

Thanks.
 

wesintl

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You can have that welded up. Take it to a good weldeing shop and it shouldn't be more than $50.

Sorry I haven't looked for that box with my spare carb. I'll try and look this week.
 

MDH33

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Update:

It appears that the Insulator block is what is cracked and the manifold seems ok except that the manifold gaskets were shot and there was a massive exhaust leak.

Question: Will it be necessary to have a machine shop resurface both the head and manifolds, or will cleaning it up and rep[lacing the gasket be sufficient??
 

wesintl

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Mine was the same way. This is what I did. Pulled the manifolds. cleaned up the gaskets (3 pieces). Used orange manifold gasket rtv and the old cleaned up gaskets and tightened everything backup. No wonky idle due to vacuum leak and runs like a champ. Also go back and retighten the maniold bolts or I'd recommend some blue locktite. The way they tigheten with the clamps sucks.

you can also get a billet insulator from mark.
http://www.marksoffroad.net/specials/insulator01.html
 
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