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Rust Spots
- Thread starter Ocho
- Start date
nuclearlemon
Hard Core 4+
if they are just light rust, sand them to clean metal, put a little primer on and try to match the paint.
Bikeman
Hard Core 4+
I have recently used Rust Buster on flash rust spots on my frame and it is supposed to kill the rust and seal it. This is done without removing the majority or sometimes any of the rust, and then you paint over it. If you are going to remove the rust, you need to get all of it and be 100% sure you did, or it will creep back like cancer.
SteveH
Hard Core 4+
If the rust starts under the window or windshield gasket, you really should remove the glass and treat the rust completely. If you just touch up the part you can see, up to the edge of the gasket, it'll be right back.
True dAT!
The only rust on my 40th was there also. I had the body shop go after it and that little spot the size of a quarter ended up being over a foot long under the gasket! I told the body shop I wanted it to go away forever....they opened the pinch weld and sand blasted the crap out then coated the inside. So far OK!
I'm guessing it is a '97? Sounds like many '97's had a problem with the rear upper hatch not being properly rust proofed.
Another reason why 96 is the best year..
Especially if you have one of the ultra rare green ones!
How much did that run you? I have pretty rough rust around my windshield (worst on the truck) and I am debating pulling the windshield once it cracks and doing it myself, or having a shop do it.
Rezarf
Hard Core 4+
There are a few good rust converters out there, one of my favorite's is Extend it is made by permatex and works great. It might be worth shooting on before things go too far south as you decide how much to go after it.
Just a thought.
Drew
Just a thought.
Drew
Inukshuk
Rising Sun Member
I was also concerned about the rust spots around my windshield. There were chips where the rubber met the metal and I suspected it went deeper. I also needed a new windshield and my State Farm policy is good for one no-deductible windshield replacement each year. So, I scheduled the repair - which was to use OEM glass and new rubber - and then about a week before started to trim away the rubber and see how bad the rust was. My plan was to then remove the rust with a 3M rust/paint removal wheel and prime. I found that the rust did not actually extend under the rubber. So, I was able to clean, and then apply a few coats of a rust inhibiting clean metal primer. I got Toyota touch up paint to finish it. Not a professional job but will give me a few years on the rust.
DaveInDenver
Rising Sun Ham Guru
Would have said Bill's guy up at CIM, but they seemed to have closed.
I had a good experience with Matrix Auto Body, just south of Evans on Jason St. (near the Air Care Colorado). Rich Deavers was my referred contact. But the job was small and my truck is Toyota White. So I can't really comment beyond a nice job yanking a few dents and matching a color that hasn't changed in 40 years.
treerootCO
Rising Sun Member
- Joined
- Aug 22, 2005
- Messages
- 5,431
My 80 had the cancer showing from under the windshield rubber. I pulled the glass and there were multiple spots of rust around the parameter. The worst was under the cowl and required sandblasting to get all of it out. Sanding is not effective as it just grazes the top and doesn't get into the craters. If you sanded that deep you wouldn't have any metal left. I put a light film of body filler over the treated spots and went to town with the paint.
