arthog
Hard Core 4+
any ideas? the axle is not on a truck, so no fluid and the p.brake is not hooked up. can not seem to turn the adjusters. 1 way they won't turn the other they spring back.
removing brake drums on a 60 rear axle
- Thread starter arthog
- Start date
Did you try the two treaded holes you put a bolt into to push the drum off?
nuclearlemon
Hard Core 4+
it's probably the way that won't turn...you have to get a pick in there to pry the adjuster lock out while you turn.
Shark Bait
Rising Sun Member
BFH and pry bars. 
Rzeppa
Rising Sun Member
Some drums have the threaded holes, some don't. If you have them, a pair of M8x1.25 bolts will pull the suckers right off.
Next - In my experience, the first thing to get over is that the drum center holes are rusted to the hubs. That can be quickly remedied with a few swift whacks with a BFH. My guess is by now you've already tried that.
Pry bars don't work, they are too thick to get a decent grab around the edges in my experience. Although I have custom-bent a flat screwdriver which is thinner and can actually fit in there. It can also work to pound it in the holes on the type of drums which don't have the threaded holes. Pound it into the gap between the underside of the drum and the hub on the inside of the hole to drive a wedge between the drum and the hub.
Another method which works pretty well is a combination of heat (expands the drums), pounding and prying. I prefer a map gas torch over O-A for this as it won't overheat the drum and warp it.
As you know the 60 uses a single cylinder at the top rather than the duals on either side that 40s use. I can sometimes get that custom bent screwdriver with hammer taps to loosen the adjuster. Don't forget the penetrating oil in there!
Just some suggestions on what's worked for me. Good luck and happy cruisin'!
Next - In my experience, the first thing to get over is that the drum center holes are rusted to the hubs. That can be quickly remedied with a few swift whacks with a BFH. My guess is by now you've already tried that.
Pry bars don't work, they are too thick to get a decent grab around the edges in my experience. Although I have custom-bent a flat screwdriver which is thinner and can actually fit in there. It can also work to pound it in the holes on the type of drums which don't have the threaded holes. Pound it into the gap between the underside of the drum and the hub on the inside of the hole to drive a wedge between the drum and the hub.
Another method which works pretty well is a combination of heat (expands the drums), pounding and prying. I prefer a map gas torch over O-A for this as it won't overheat the drum and warp it.
As you know the 60 uses a single cylinder at the top rather than the duals on either side that 40s use. I can sometimes get that custom bent screwdriver with hammer taps to loosen the adjuster. Don't forget the penetrating oil in there!
Just some suggestions on what's worked for me. Good luck and happy cruisin'!
Rzeppa
Rising Sun Member
Heh - good point. I neglected to mention that as I have NEVER seen one that was still installed. But it is in there in the manual ;-)ALso make sure that the flathead screw that hold the drum to the axle has been removed
arthog
Hard Core 4+
I have the 2 holes in the drums. Aside from making some sort of puller ie: a pice of steel with through holes for the 2 8M screws and a threaded center too push against the center of the axle. Is there a SST for this? or do I just tie off the screws to the 55 and drag it down the road until it comes off?