Pop goes the t-case...

[FJBen]

crosspost from mud...

Driving back from band practice last night around 10:00pm. I was on the highway for about 10-15 miles, was slowing/coasting down from 65ish MPH when I head a "pop" and then I'm in neutral. Ok, well I just thought maybe she popped into nuetral. Slow down to stop at the light, when I go to take off again...let the clutch out...VROOOM no moving.

Ok, somewhat strange, try again...no engaging. Mind you I'm on a highway that people go 65-70 on and I'm stuck at the intersection at 10:00 at night. MANY semi's travel this route. So I get out, manually check the t-case, move into low range....get in...same thing VROOM with no go when I let the clutch out. Doesn't matter where I put the high/low selector (and it still feels like it's hitting each detent when I move it on the case)

I don't hear anything grinding or horrible noises but you can hear the gears in the tranny turn if you listen close enough. Thankfully I have good friends that come and rescue me in the middle of the night. THANKS! I got towed to my house and now it sits in the garage...again...

67 Fj40, 350, SM420, 3speed case
thoughts? where to go from here?

 

[wesintl]

The tcase popped into neutral or the tranny?

Pull the inspection cover on the t- case. Doesn't sound good.. my bet maybe the idler?

 

[FJBen]

The tcase popped into neutral or the tranny?

Pull the inspection cover on the t- case. Doesn't sound good.. my bet maybe the idler?

the t-case, I can shift through all the gears fine, just nothing happens. When I let out the clutch it sounds like the tranny is turning gears, just not the t-case.

someone on mud mentioned the bolt/washer that retains the gear onto the 420 output shaft. I know that was really tight and that that gears was extremely hard and tight to press on...it's possible it could have popped out, but I would have thought it would have made A LOT more noise.

 

[nuclearlemon]

don't know about the 420s, but the 465s have an inherent problem with synchos popping out. there's a fix for the 465s, but, as mentioned, i don't knwo if it applies to the 420s.

 

[Uncle Ben]

the t-case, I can shift through all the gears fine, just nothing happens. When I let out the clutch it sounds like the tranny is turning gears, just not the t-case.

someone on mud mentioned the bolt/washer that retains the gear onto the 420 output shaft. I know that was really tight and that that gears was extremely hard and tight to press on...it's possible it could have popped out, but I would have thought it would have made A LOT more noise.

This is my first guess when I read you first post. I would say it is a very strong possibility that the input gear cam of the tranny output shaft. Only other thing I can think of would be a broken hi-low shift fork in the t-case.

 

[FJBen]

The tranny feels like it shifts fine, and the t-case actually feels like shifting between high/low. That gear on the output shaft of the tranny was on VERY VERY tight, had to press on/off...I guess it's possible it could have come off.

 

[Uncle Ben]

The tranny feels like it shifts fine, and the t-case actually feels like shifting between high/low. That gear on the output shaft of the tranny was on VERY VERY tight, had to press on/off...I guess it's possible it could have come off.

The secrets behind the side cover will tell all! Buy me an Atlas II and I'll give you a 420 adapted Orion!

 

[FJBen]

The secrets behind the side cover will tell all! Buy me an Atlas II and I'll give you a 420 adapted Orion!

thats what I'm afraid of I have the AA propellor mount so thats gonna slightly suck.

I was thinking Orion time

btw: anyone know a torque spec for that bolt that holds the gear onto the 420 shaft?

 

[corsair23]

btw: anyone know a torque spec for that bolt that holds the gear onto the 420 shaft?

hmmm...Thought it was in here but I didn't see it...But in case I missed it or you just want some additional information here you go:

http://www.kinzers.com/don/landcruiser/transmissions/

 

[Uncle Ben]

thats what I'm afraid of I have the AA propellor mount so thats gonna slightly suck.

I was thinking Orion time

btw: anyone know a torque spec for that bolt that holds the gear onto the 420 shaft?

About 1/8" high neck veins is pretty close!

 

[treerootCO]

Put a breaker bar on it and drive over the wrench

 

[Shark Bait]

The secrets behind the side cover will tell all! Buy me an Atlas II and I'll give you a 420 adapted Orion!

Are you not liking your 420 adapted Orion?

 

[Uncle Ben]

Are you not liking your 420 adapted Orion?

I'm not sure what powerplant I might end up going with so if he gave me a right hand-front output Atlas it would open up a bunch of weight saving possibilities!

 

[FJBen]

Update:

well, that bolt backed off and the gear fell off... At 50Mph I'm amazed carnage didn't happen. So now I get to fish out the bolt/washer, tighten the fook out of it and put it all back together.

But you can still give me your Orion if you want I'll even kick in a few bucks for your atlas fund

 

[Uncle Ben]

Update:

well, that bolt backed off and the gear fell off... At 50Mph I'm amazed carnage didn't happen. So now I get to fish out the bolt/washer, tighten the fook out of it and put it all back together.

But you can still give me your Orion if you want I'll even kick in a few bucks for your atlas fund

Do the double washer/roll pin trick.

Recap of the procedure....

Take the stock 1/8" thick washer and a large fenderwasher of proper size. Line up the bolt holes and clamp it in your drill press vise or table vise. Get a 3/16" roll pin. Drill a 3/16" hole through both washers outside of the bolt head area. Drive the roll pin into the hole securing the washers together. Red lock tight the bolt and install on the shaft sandwiching the double washer with the thick washer on the shaft side. After testing the strength of your longest breaker bar take a punch and hammer and fold up the fender washer to the bolt side effectively safety locking it in place.


Good luck amigo!

 

[FJBen]

Do the double washer/roll pin trick.

Recap of the procedure....

Take the stock 1/8" thick washer and a large fenderwasher of proper size. Line up the bolt holes and clamp it in your drill press vise or table vise. Get a 3/16" roll pin. Drill a 3/16" hole through both washers outside of the bolt head area. Drive the roll pin into the hole securing the washers together. Red lock tight the bolt and install on the shaft sandwiching the double washer with the thick washer on the shaft side. After testing the strength of your longest breaker bar take a punch and hammer and fold up the fender washer to the bolt side effectively safety locking it in place.


Good luck amigo!

I saw that writeup. I'm assuming you are meaning this.

 

[Uncle Ben]

Wow....yup thats exactly what I mean!