Red_Chili
Hard Core 4+
FWIW, I got mine at JC Whitney back in the day. Then Roger started sourcing them. Rather buy from Roger.
(TLCA minitruck tech editor, BTW. Shameless plug).
(TLCA minitruck tech editor, BTW. Shameless plug).
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My Build Up begins: First Project=Wiring. UGH
- Thread starter AxleIke
- Start date
AxleIke
Hard Core 4+
Okay, For sure WILL DO. I'll look into that harness later tonight.
I'm actually starting to look forward to this more now, as I read more, and understand more about wiring, I'm getting excited to be rid of all the annoying "quirks" i've been putting up with.
I will definitely need the wiring book, as this fuel sensor is a total mystery.
As for the old part, you bet. There are days when I'm really proud to drive around in my cool old truck, and other days, usually in the garage, where I'm less than impressed, to say the least.
I'm actually starting to look forward to this more now, as I read more, and understand more about wiring, I'm getting excited to be rid of all the annoying "quirks" i've been putting up with.
I will definitely need the wiring book, as this fuel sensor is a total mystery.
As for the old part, you bet. There are days when I'm really proud to drive around in my cool old truck, and other days, usually in the garage, where I'm less than impressed, to say the least.
AxleIke
Hard Core 4+
Just ordered my 4crawler harness. While it won't solve all my problems, a lot of reading, and the opinions here convinced me it was a good buy. For 45 bucks, I can't really go wrong.
Now, can anyone help with the Mobi Arc conversion?
I read about it on the 4x4wire write up that Bill provided, but the site in the write up does not seem to give me a good link to the kit.
The reason I like this idea, is that my alternator is fairly new, about a year and a half old. Its from Toyota, so it was expensive, and I'd rather not have to try and make a ford unit work. I feel like I could kill a couple of birds here. Get more output, check (and replace if necessary) my voltage regulator, and give the alternator a good refurbishing. This should, in theory, help me deal with my power draw, from the accessories, as well as my "dimming" problem when the brakes are pushed.
Now, can anyone help with the Mobi Arc conversion?
I read about it on the 4x4wire write up that Bill provided, but the site in the write up does not seem to give me a good link to the kit.
The reason I like this idea, is that my alternator is fairly new, about a year and a half old. Its from Toyota, so it was expensive, and I'd rather not have to try and make a ford unit work. I feel like I could kill a couple of birds here. Get more output, check (and replace if necessary) my voltage regulator, and give the alternator a good refurbishing. This should, in theory, help me deal with my power draw, from the accessories, as well as my "dimming" problem when the brakes are pushed.
Red_Chili
Hard Core 4+
Just give Mobi-Arc a call.
I would have to say, that going with a GM alternator is not a bad option either, IIRC, 135 amps or so. I've not done it. Some of the aftermarket alternators are way pricier than either of these options
.
But you may be treating a symptom rather than the cause. Your dimming problem should not be happening with your stock setup.
Think of electricity like plumbing, only with electrons instead of water molecules. You have a source (battery, alternator running through voltage regulator), which is like a certain amount of pressure. The wires are like pipes - spring a leak (short to ground) and you will lose pressure (voltage). Try to run too much volume (current) through too small a pipe (wire gauge), or a partially clogged pipe (ohmic connection, another name for a corroded connection or switch), or a leaky pipe (partial ground faults), and you will have plenty of pressure at the source (voltage), but will flow only a little water (current).
A multimeter on the battery will tell you if your problem is low voltage, or simply not being able to flow sufficient current (as in the case of bad battery cables when trying to start, for instance). Got good voltage at the batt? Now try measuring voltage at the light. It will likely be much lower than the battery. That means you are losing voltage in-between, most likely through a bad connection but possibly a corroded connection with a partial ground fault, perhaps.
Make sense?
Bad grounds are a typical source of problems, as are corroded connections. And let's not forget a PO using 22 gauge wire all over the place.
I would have to say, that going with a GM alternator is not a bad option either, IIRC, 135 amps or so. I've not done it. Some of the aftermarket alternators are way pricier than either of these options
.But you may be treating a symptom rather than the cause. Your dimming problem should not be happening with your stock setup.
Think of electricity like plumbing, only with electrons instead of water molecules. You have a source (battery, alternator running through voltage regulator), which is like a certain amount of pressure. The wires are like pipes - spring a leak (short to ground) and you will lose pressure (voltage). Try to run too much volume (current) through too small a pipe (wire gauge), or a partially clogged pipe (ohmic connection, another name for a corroded connection or switch), or a leaky pipe (partial ground faults), and you will have plenty of pressure at the source (voltage), but will flow only a little water (current).
A multimeter on the battery will tell you if your problem is low voltage, or simply not being able to flow sufficient current (as in the case of bad battery cables when trying to start, for instance). Got good voltage at the batt? Now try measuring voltage at the light. It will likely be much lower than the battery. That means you are losing voltage in-between, most likely through a bad connection but possibly a corroded connection with a partial ground fault, perhaps.
Make sense?
Bad grounds are a typical source of problems, as are corroded connections. And let's not forget a PO using 22 gauge wire all over the place.
AxleIke
Hard Core 4+
Lots of good advice there. I will work on that next.
With the GM alternator, the concern i have is making it fit and work. I'm concerned that it won't be a "plug and play" type set up, and while I'm okay with that, electrical is usually one of those things that they don't let you take back at the auto parts stores. And I'd rather not replace something that isn't totally broken. For the money, I'm not really losing much by going with the mobi arc setup.
Back to the issues.
Essentially, I have a number of problems. The dimming one is weird. The idle problem seems to be this fuel switch not kicking on when I let off the gas.
I'm not sure if it makes a difference, but the dim is somewhat of a "flash". Essentially, when i step on the brakes, the lights momentarily dim, or possibly shut off, but then come back on again, too fast to tell for sure. Now, the light is also somewhat dimmer when on the brake pedal.
I noticed another issue yesterday, one that hasn't cropped up for a year or more now. Essentially, when on the brake, the right turn signal comes on, like a light, not a flasher, when stepping on the brake. Essentially, a solid light in my turn signal. It did it for a few miles, then a couple of bumps, and no more. I'm guessing I have a short somewhere for sure.
With the GM alternator, the concern i have is making it fit and work. I'm concerned that it won't be a "plug and play" type set up, and while I'm okay with that, electrical is usually one of those things that they don't let you take back at the auto parts stores. And I'd rather not replace something that isn't totally broken. For the money, I'm not really losing much by going with the mobi arc setup.
Back to the issues.
Essentially, I have a number of problems. The dimming one is weird. The idle problem seems to be this fuel switch not kicking on when I let off the gas.
I'm not sure if it makes a difference, but the dim is somewhat of a "flash". Essentially, when i step on the brakes, the lights momentarily dim, or possibly shut off, but then come back on again, too fast to tell for sure. Now, the light is also somewhat dimmer when on the brake pedal.
I noticed another issue yesterday, one that hasn't cropped up for a year or more now. Essentially, when on the brake, the right turn signal comes on, like a light, not a flasher, when stepping on the brake. Essentially, a solid light in my turn signal. It did it for a few miles, then a couple of bumps, and no more. I'm guessing I have a short somewhere for sure.
Red_Chili
Hard Core 4+
That, and possibly a bad connection with your accessory wire to the battery. Have someone monitor the battery voltage while all this is going on. Chances are, it will remain mostly stable. Now check it at the fuse box. I'll bet you see the drop in voltage. That means somewhere between the two points, you have an ohmic connection.
Don't discount junkyards as sources for decent alternators. How good are you with precision assembly? Dremels? I dove in because I had spare parts. I also used a few junk alternators to rob parts from. I also am an old model railroader.
I have seen guys who were definitely not electrical whiz kids do the GM alternator swap. Alternators work like this: you have an exciter circuit (think, electromagnet; this causes lines of magnetic flux to cross stator wires as the rotor turns, which generates electricity. This is why you need current to make current BTW, and why you should NEVER TEST A TOYOTA ALTERNATOR BY REMOVING THE BATTERY). You have the voltage regulator that floats an exciter current to the rotor, more or less, to meet demand and maintain a voltage. The VR also has a diode board in our case to rectify the generated AC into DC. Then you have the charge current output, and power and ground of course.
Not a lot to it. Alternator brushes (and the corresponding rings on the rotor), bearings, and diodes fail over time. Sometimes the VR too, but that is on the same board with the diodes. I have used junkyard parts successfully for all these except the inexpensive brushes.
Don't discount junkyards as sources for decent alternators. How good are you with precision assembly? Dremels? I dove in because I had spare parts. I also used a few junk alternators to rob parts from. I also am an old model railroader.
I have seen guys who were definitely not electrical whiz kids do the GM alternator swap. Alternators work like this: you have an exciter circuit (think, electromagnet; this causes lines of magnetic flux to cross stator wires as the rotor turns, which generates electricity. This is why you need current to make current BTW, and why you should NEVER TEST A TOYOTA ALTERNATOR BY REMOVING THE BATTERY). You have the voltage regulator that floats an exciter current to the rotor, more or less, to meet demand and maintain a voltage. The VR also has a diode board in our case to rectify the generated AC into DC. Then you have the charge current output, and power and ground of course.
Not a lot to it. Alternator brushes (and the corresponding rings on the rotor), bearings, and diodes fail over time. Sometimes the VR too, but that is on the same board with the diodes. I have used junkyard parts successfully for all these except the inexpensive brushes.
DaveInDenver
Rising Sun Ham Guru
I replaced my alternator when I did the engine last year. My old one had noisy bearings and wasn't 100% anymore (probably the regulator). I considered the GM route and thought about the MR2 alternator, too. Ultimately I stuck with the 60A stock...no winch, one battery, one pair of Hella 500 fog lights and just a basic radio, essentially nothing much in the way of load. It works for me since I didn't want to screw with figuring out how to mount something different. Since you have easy access to machine tools and a welder, I would consider doing the GM swap if I was you. It's a pretty common modification and you're not forging new ground.
AxleIke
Hard Core 4+
Got the 4crawler harness last night. Looks great.
Bighead
Trail Ready
Crap...now you are motivating me to fix my bird's nest of wiring.
AxleIke
Hard Core 4+
LOL, well, the process is slow. I'm finding that working out a wiring diagram is the hardest part.
AxleIke
Hard Core 4+
At the point where I wonder what on Earth I am doing. LOL
So, couple of questions.
First of all, does anyone have a steering wheel puller. I could buy one, but its not something I do very often, and I'm trying to pinch pennies.
Wheel looks like this, if it makes a difference:
Second question: anyone know how I get the passenger dash off. I've removed all of the screws along the front, and the one nut by the windshield thats under the gauge cluster. It's loose, but getting resistance up near the windshield, but I can't feel anything or see anything that needs to be unclipped. I have a nice dash, so I want to avoid damage at all costs.
And, in case you thought I was joking about the hack job I did on this beast:
There are a few factory wires in there, but the rest....Yeah.
Thanks!
So, couple of questions.
First of all, does anyone have a steering wheel puller. I could buy one, but its not something I do very often, and I'm trying to pinch pennies.
Wheel looks like this, if it makes a difference:
Second question: anyone know how I get the passenger dash off. I've removed all of the screws along the front, and the one nut by the windshield thats under the gauge cluster. It's loose, but getting resistance up near the windshield, but I can't feel anything or see anything that needs to be unclipped. I have a nice dash, so I want to avoid damage at all costs.
And, in case you thought I was joking about the hack job I did on this beast:
There are a few factory wires in there, but the rest....Yeah.
Thanks!
AxleIke
Hard Core 4+
I gotta tell you, I really get frustrated at myself when I do stuff like this. Where I have to go back and REDO stuff I already DID, because I was too lazy or incompetent to do it right the first time. I want to go back in time and beat up my previous self. Ugh.
Red_Chili
Hard Core 4+
Aw, chill d00d. I have a bit of wiring that looks like that and I'm picky! It's tough when you have wiring done in stages, starting in all different locations, ending in more different locations, and have it all turn out pretty. I worked at the rocket ranch and they spend an enormous amount of time doing wiring harnesses that looked good - and had termination labels on each wire. That is the gold standard. But few of us have the time nor inclination to do that.
I also did wiring cabinet design at one job and that was tough too. Wire conduit and wire trays make ugly look pretty... but no room in a truck for that. Split loom cures many ills.
I also did wiring cabinet design at one job and that was tough too. Wire conduit and wire trays make ugly look pretty... but no room in a truck for that. Split loom cures many ills.
Rezarf
Hard Core 4+
Hey Isaac, I have a steering wheel puller, and that is about how it should look on the inside, it is when you find large quantities of wire nuts and duct tape you should start to get worried.
Drew
Drew
AxleIke
Hard Core 4+
Sweet Drew! I'd like to borrow it at somepoint.
Bill, do you know perchance how to get the pass dash off?
Thanks guys!!!
Bill, do you know perchance how to get the pass dash off?
Thanks guys!!!
Red_Chili
Hard Core 4+
I have actually never done that. Squishy! knows. I will PM you his cell, but you should text him rather than call because he is at work.
AxleIke
Hard Core 4+
Thanks!!!
AxleIke
Hard Core 4+
SOOO, the MOBIARC deal was originally quoted to me for 45 dollars, but told to call back since people who knew the apps were on vacation. Called back, and its actually 150. So, that will be waiting for next month, as I just bought the crawler. Bummer.
leiniesred
Hard Core 4+
AxleIke:
Try this on your steering wheel. Leave the nut on, but loose. at LEAST a few threads. Check it again. Now, bang the steering wheel towards yourself. Try just jerking the wheel toward you really hard with both hands too. I bet it comes off until it hits the nut.
(no nut and you'll break your nose and maybe some teeth)
Onto the top dash pad: The mystery screw you are looking for is behind the right dash vent! Getting the vent out without destroying it might not be possible. We're dealing with old plastic here. There are clips with teeth on both sides of the vent. It snaps in and the teeth keep it from pulling out.
Get that last screw out and I think you are golden. It kinda lifts up at the front and pulls toward you.
Try this on your steering wheel. Leave the nut on, but loose. at LEAST a few threads. Check it again. Now, bang the steering wheel towards yourself. Try just jerking the wheel toward you really hard with both hands too. I bet it comes off until it hits the nut.
(no nut and you'll break your nose and maybe some teeth)
Onto the top dash pad: The mystery screw you are looking for is behind the right dash vent! Getting the vent out without destroying it might not be possible. We're dealing with old plastic here. There are clips with teeth on both sides of the vent. It snaps in and the teeth keep it from pulling out.
Get that last screw out and I think you are golden. It kinda lifts up at the front and pulls toward you.
AxleIke
Hard Core 4+
THANK YOU!!!! That is exactly what I needed. I didn't get a chance yet to call up squishy, but that should do the trick.
I actually got the steering wheel popped off, so no worries!
Thanks again!