Mini Truck Guy's

[Uncle Ben]

And there you have it.

Hmmm, you know how the 80 rage moved through the club like a tsunami? Maybe it's time for a mini rage?

Thats it....it's over! (Hey what do you expect from a mini rage?)

If your smaller then they're fine. Sitting in a 1-3 Gen reminds me of airline seating!

 

[bigbluefj]

more pic's

Thats it....it's over! (Hey what do you expect from a mini rage?)

If your smaller then they're fine. Sitting in a 1-3 Gen reminds me of airline seating! [/quote

See i do fit..

 

[bigbluefj]

a few more

 

[Red_Chili]

Very nice, looks to be well cared-for.

 

[bigbluefj]

We'll know tomorrow after work if i'm going to pick it up, say Bill is there any adjustment in the clutch on these truck's the clutch is at the top just seem's weired is ready to change or need's adjustment?

 

[Red_Chili]

Just the actuator rod, controls free play before engaging the clutch master cylinder. If it has no play at all, you can actually close off the little hole beneath the reservoir even when released. When that happens, as the fluid heats and expands the clutch can actually start to slip.

It might just be different than a cruiser though...

 

[Uncle Ben]

Also, check the pedal pivots. It is pretty common for the bushings and or axle to get very worn out. Older FJ-40's had this issue along with mini's, early Tacos and even T-100's are all subject to the problem.

 

[Rezarf]

I love the trayback!

Drew

 

[Red_Chili]

I had an '89 XtraCab. I was a moron for ever getting rid of it.

 

[leiniesred]

My thoughts on the mini truck. Keep in mind I have had the same 1989 4runner for almost 12 years.

You have the FJ40 for the big trails. I would keep the mini relatively stock as the more trail oriented you make it, the less streetable it becomes.

IFS vs. solid axle: I've had both on my truck. The solid axle is much "better" on the trails and I haven't broken it yet. I did break IFS parts on the trail. The solid axle is more "stable" than the IFS on the trail. Solid axle isn't trashing out 1 front tire like my IFS did. It doesn't ride any worse on the highway than my IFS did modified from stock. (cranked t-bars or bigger t-bars) None-the-Less, if you want >33 inch tires, I'd solid axle swap it. 33s or less = leave it IFS. Use the FJ40 on the trails you need big tires.

Gears: I've had 4.10, 4.88 and 5.29s. Factory 4.88s from a 4runner with factory 31s will be an easy bolt in and be usable up to about 33 inch tires. Anything bigger, I'd run 5.29s for sure. trick: the factory 4.88 housing will only accept factory 4.88 gears. As far as the differential carrier goes it is the SAME as a regular 8 inch. ARB, Lockright, detroit...all fit fine.

Lockers:
I've had open/open, open/lockright, lsd/lockright, lockright/lockright, ARB/lockright, and ARB/ARB. Not the cheap way to do it! ARB or toyota e-locker is the only one that doesn't sacrifice street for trail performance. You almost need a locker or 2 on the trail with IFS since you end up on 3 wheels so often. I would e-locker or ARB the back, and maybe even the front if I had the bread. A budget lunchbox locker in the back isn't bad at all for a daily driver. auto- Locked in the front, with IFS in the snow, it is a "handful." Don't waste your time with Limited Slips trying for more trailability without affecting streetability. "Limited slip means limited traction." -Smartboy

Armor: skip it. Drive carefully. The sills are already repaired. No big deal if you mess 'em up even more. I'd bob the back of the flatbed for better departure angles. I'd consider leaving enough frame to run 63 inch chevy springs back there and extending the shock hoops up through the bed for amazing rear flex on the cheap. I would also cut off the headache bar. extra weight and very little extra roll-over protection. keep it simple and light.

Transfercases. Ah, the best part of the mini's. I spend 90% of my wheelin' time in the single 2.28 case. When it gets big, I drop in the 2nd 4.7 t-case. When it gets really big, I usually need tire speed and I'm back in the single 2.28 case. I would opt for a single 4.7 reduction box re-gear. why? You get lower trail gears without modifying driveshafts, crossmembers, and floorboards. Twin stick it if you get the urge. 2low can be handy on the trail. You can always add another 2.28 case later if you get tired of wheeling with your friends in 4th gear all the time and want even MORE gear depth.

Tires: I've had 28, 31, 33, 35, and 36 inch tires on the same truck. I would build your rig for 33x10.50s maximum. Edit the flatbed to fit them and pound the fender seam flat to get them to fit the front if required. With the 33's in mind as a max, I would go 4.88 right off the bat. Probably factory 4.88's with an ARB in the back. Maybe later add the front ARB if I really enjoyed the IFS Mini truck on the trails.

Engine: 3rz swap only after the 22RE dies.

 

[Red_Chili]

Um, the Chili has great street manners and it is far from stock. It was a design goal in fact. I regularly tow my popup with it across Wyoming or Colorado for hunting or for just camping. Works great. Handles well in the city too. Alcan springs are a big part of this, and so is trying to emulate the stock 1985 steering geometry with your SAS.

The 22RE struggled towing, but with a pickup you are likely lighter. It will pull 35s with 5.29s no problem. You can SAS it, drive it to Moab, wheel it, drive it back home, and do just fine, if you pick your components carefully. IMHO.

I would differ on armor. Rock sliders are cheap to fabricate and save a lot of body damage. Bumpers can be built fairly inexpensively too. You will have to plan on gradually reduced fuel capacity though.

 

[bigbluefj]

Fuel Capacity what's that i drive a 40 with a 5.7 vortec in it???

 

[bigbluefj]

So just recieved the paper work from the inspection..

Break Light's in-op
2 Upper Ball Joint's
2 Lower Ball Joint's
Alignment
Clutch Worn Out
1 Rear U-Joint

So asking price of the truck is $4000.00 minus what ever the cost of part's and labour would be so i'm thinking $2000.00 the way it sit's what is the cost for said part's???

Kevin

 

[AxleIke]

2000 may be a bit high.

The ball joints are about 30 each, so 120 there, the alignment should be about 50-60.

U joint, 30-50. Clutch- 300.

no idea on the brake lights, unless they are just burnt out bulbs.

Figuring labor, you'd get 1000 for the cost of repairs.

 

[bigbluefj]

Ball joint's hard to do on these truck's the BOOK say's 5.7 H a side??


Kevin

 

[nakman]

Is someone else swapping the ball joints?

btw dude, your speedometer is backwards- the MPH goes on the outside.

 

[Red_Chili]

Ike- that's $2000 CDN.

The brake lights are either bulbs, or the brake light switch above the pedal. It can come unplugged. Ball joints are super easy with the proper pullers (torch, BJ puller, not pickle wrench) and an alignment is an alignment. But what do you care? You are cutting it all out. Just a bargaining chip. 5.7H book? Good grief. Somebody needs to revise a LOT of areas of the book. When a mechanic can log 20H in one 8H day, something ain't right.

Clutch is straightforward. Getting to the top bolts on the bellhousing is a pain unless you know the secret handshake (will reveal for ).

No way would I think all this would cut the value in half. $4KCDN is a mite rich, but not that much. Have you checked prices against other 4x4s, similar condition and year, for your area? These prices are not absolutes, tend to be relative to area demand.

 

[Uncle Ben]

Ike- that's $2000 CDN.

The brake lights are either bulbs, or the brake light switch above the pedal. It can come unplugged. Ball joints are super easy with the proper pullers (torch, BJ puller, not pickle wrench) and an alignment is an alignment. But what do you care? You are cutting it all out. Just a bargaining chip. 5.7H book? Good grief. Somebody needs to revise a LOT of areas of the book. When a mechanic can log 20H in one 8H day, something ain't right.

Clutch is straightforward. Getting to the top bolts on the bellhousing is a pain unless you know the secret handshake (will reveal for ).

No way would I think all this would cut the value in half. $4KCDN is a mite rich, but not that much. Have you checked prices against other 4x4s, similar condition and year, for your area? These prices are not absolutes, tend to be relative to area demand.

Not much difference these days!

 

[AxleIke]

Ball joints take very little time. An impact gun saves time on the big nut, the little ones are very simple.

I would estimate 1 hour per side.

Get this style ball joint puller. usually about 20-30 bucks, but WELL worth it if you've ever tried anything else

I dissagree with Bill on changing a clutch on a 22re. I thought it was very simple, and though the top bolts require some finesse, it can be done pretty easily. I am making my comparison to a clutch change on a 3.0L V6 motor, which may be the most hellacious project of all time. Obviously, its always a big job to change a clutch.

 

[Red_Chili]

Ike, we don't actually disagree. Straightforward. But dang it, you cost me a beer revealing the top bolt thing...

UB, I know the gap is closing but $3,781 sounds a lot less than $4K! Like, two ball joints less, plus change! Or maybe four aftermarket ball joints less! $1900 buys a pretty ratty mini these days! And that mini ain't ratty, not by a long shot.