Looks like a valve job!

RicardoJM

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Yesterday afternoon I dropped by Randy's garage to lend a hand with pulling the head from his F engine. The engine has poor compression (40 psi) in cylinder number 4. I had planned to get there at 4:00, but as it turned out the traffic kept me on the road until 4:20. When I arrived, Randy had already disconnected the radiator hoses, removed the valve cover and just finished removing the nuts from the manifold bolts. A handshake with Randy was the first order of business so the dog knew I was good people. I also took a closer look at the rear bumper Randy built and will post up some pictures in his bumper thread. The bumper really looks nice and clean.

In a couple of minutes I had my wrenching suit on and was pulling the manifolds off the block. Here is how the engine compartment looked at that time.
w_starting.jpg


After removing the manifold we removed the nuts and bolts holding the valve train to the block. With the nuts and bolts off, we removed the valve train and push rods. This gave us plenty of room to use the breaker bar and impact wrench as needed to remove the head bolts. IIRC most of them came up with just the impact and those that needed the breaker were not really too much trouble. Of course there was not room for the impact wrench on the bolts furthest to the rear of the block so we used the socket wrench. Air powered tools really make this kind of work easier. I don't think I got a picture, but Randy has a coffe can (do you still call the plastic containers cans?) connected to the front bumper that holds all the nuts and bolts that were removed. This is a great system for making sure nothing goes astray. Here is the head all ready to be lifted out.
w_ready_to_pull.jpg


The head is heavy and two big strong guys used to lifting heavy things together could probably lift it right up and out. Randy and an are not used to lifting heavy things together so we used the engine hoist. The head only had a hook on the back side so it took a a bit of time to find the proper bolt to be used hold the chain to the front of the block. Upon sorting that out, we moved the hoist into place and found out the stinger on the bumper would only let us get in so far, and it was not quite as far as we would like. Not really a problem, we hooked up the load levler to get some additional reach. Here is the hoist in as far as it will go before it hits the stinger.
w_stinger_in_way.jpg


Working with Randy was great. His shop is set up well, warm and he knows his way around an engine. Throughout the process he would describe what we were doing, what we were seeing and how it related to troubleshooting the issue of low compression in cylinder 4. He also took time to answer other questions that popped into my mind as we were working and even took my picture as the head was coming out.
w_on_its_way_out.jpg


With the head off, we spent a time looking at the block, head and cylinders to see what their condition and operation might tell us. While we didn't find a single obvious issue telling us why compression is low in cylinder 4, it looks like getting the head re-done is an appropriate next step. Even if issue is a simple as the head gasket needing to be replaced, the head job baselines the valves. Of course, it could be there is an issue with the valves over cylinder 4, in which case the head work is really needed.

Here is the engine block with the head removed. We could see the area between cylinders 4 and 5 were really different than all the other "between cylinder areas". While the old head gasket did not show obvious signs of deterioration, replacing it will be done.
w_engine_block.jpg



Here is a close up of cylinders 3 and 4. It is very clear that cylinder 4 was much darker than all the other cylinders. This is consistent with what would likely happen when the fuel is not fully burned, which is likely to occur in low compression cylinders.
w_closeup_3_4.jpg



With the head on the hoist, Randy went over it top and bottom looking for signs of an obvious burnt valve. None found on the bottom of the head. It could be the valves are all good, but the head will be taken in and gone through for good measure.
w_bottom_of_head.jpg



and none found on the top of the head. Even though the head is being re-done, it was good to go through the inspection and understand the condition of what is being sent in.
w_inspecting_top_of_head.jpg



We also did a leak down test in cylinders 3 and 4 to see if they were holding tight to the cylinder walls. They seemed to be doing ok. If there had been something obvious, the next step would likely have been having to remove the oil pan to get a good look at the internals of the engine block. Here are the cylinders with kerosene in them.
w_leak_down.jpg



We also took a wire brush to clean the top of the pistons and looked for cracks. There were no obvious ones that could be seen and the pistion heads looked very good.
w_clean_pistons.jpg



We loaded the head into the bed of Randy's truck and it is off to the shop today. With the days work done, we jumped out of our wrenching suits and enjoyed a soda. Randy, thanks for having me over to lend a hand. I learned quite a bit and again got to see something first hand that I've wondered about.
 
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DaveInDenver

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I had a similar look between #2 and #3 on my engine (#4 is on the left of my photo), with #3 piston showing signs of incomplete combustion, too. This is an indication of failure or impending failure of the head gasket, right? I didn't have quite as much difference between cylinders as Randy and since my failure was timing related, so I didn't have any recent numbers before I tore it apart.

22re_009.jpg
 

Air Randy

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If you look at Ricardo's 6th photo, which is the close up of the engine block, the suspicious area is between the #4 (greasy) cylinder and #5 to the right off it. Keep in mind some of the greasiness in #4 is the result of me pumping oil in through the spark plug hole as part of the compression test process.

One question that did come up: Whats the proper way these days to dispose of anti freeze? I know I can take my used oil to Checker but what does one do with the anti freeze?
 

corsair23

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Air Randy

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I took the cylinder head to Gunn Automotive on S. Federal. They said the valves all needed cleaned up but nothing bad enough to account for the low compression on #4. The valve guides were OK too but they did replace all of the springs and keepers. They did say there was a low spot on the head that corresponded with the suspicious area on the head gasket. They felt fairly confident it was a blown head gasket and of course they milled the head nice & flat.

I decided to heck with it, and went ahead and had Gunn get piston rings, rod bearings and a head gasket for me. They were able to get everything for me from Engine Performance Warehouse (955 Decatur - approx 9th & Federal) at the same prices I would have paid from one of the mail order houses. And it's all name brand stuff, Feldpro, TRW, etc. They sold it to me for cost plus a very smal markup. Very nice folks and they did a great job, answered all of my questions, etc. So there is another source for F engine parts in town even if Toyota doesn't have it anymore.

I Gooled "anti-freeze recycling Dnever" and found several places that will take used abti-freeze free since they clean it up and re-sell it. Also turns out that my son-in-law, who manages a Big O store, will take it off my hands too.

I'll let you know how the re-ring job turns out, starting this evening.
 

RicardoJM

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That is good news Randy. Sounds like you are well on the way to the engine being better than it was before and be up in time for January 3rd:thumb:.

I was at Burt today to pick up an oil filter and they took my old anti-freeze so it can get recycled.
 

Air Randy

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OK, I popped #4 out and the rings were not broken, piston looks OK, etc. So I'm 99.9% certain it was a blown head gasket.
 

Red_Chili

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Ya know, if you are going to all the trouble to replace rings and bearings, it ain't THAT much more work to do the whole enchilada (rebore first over, or at least hone, depending on ridging).

Be double triple sure to check your block deck for absolute flatness. No shortcuts here.
 

Air Randy

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I already de-ridged and am definitely honing
 

Rzeppa

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From the photos, #4 and #5 were definitely talking to each other. Thanks for the tip on where to get parts. SOR sells them, but they are pricey.

Are you doing main bearings also or just the rod bearings? Obviously mains are a lot more work, normally yanking the whole engine, whereas the rods can be done in-situ.
 

Hulk

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I decided to heck with it, and went ahead and had Gunn get piston rings, rod bearings and a head gasket for me. They were able to get everything for me from Engine Performance Warehouse (955 Decatur - approx 9th & Federal) at the same prices I would have paid from one of the mail order houses. And it's all name brand stuff, Feldpro, TRW, etc. They sold it to me for cost plus a very smal markup.

In 1996, I used an aftermarket head gasket on my old '75 FJ40 when I rebuilt the 2F engine. Not sure what the brand was.

In 1997 (a year later), I had to do it again. The second time, I used a Toyota head gasket. There was a huge difference between the OEM and aftermarket head gaskets.

I would investigate the availability of a Toyota head gasket for your engine. Not what you want to hear after just spending the money for a gasket kit, I'm sure. But if it's available, I would use the Toyota head gasket regardless of the extra expense. All the other aftermarket gaskets will be fine to use (IMO), but the head gasket is a critical gasket.
 

Air Randy

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I checked all of the Toyota dealers in the metro area first, and was told by all of them that the head gasket is no longer available from Toyota. Given the choice, I agree, I would spend the extra bucks for the OEM version.
 

Air Randy

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Well, I got the old F back together today and got her to light up! I was really impressed with the JimC carb. After a major engine overhaul I only had to crank her about 15 seconds and she fired up then started idling great within 30 seconds. I tweaked the timing up a few degrees and now it seems to idle very smooth at about 700 rpm with pretty good throttle response. I haven't been able to drive it yet since my steering column is out but I'm shooting to get that done tomorrow.

There seems to be a very minor drip from the drain cock under the radiator. I took it out twice and really torqued it back in, even tried some silicone tape on the threads, still a very small drip. Anyone else have this issue?

I checked #4 just before I started it (it was 40 lbs before the rebuild) and it was 90lbs cold, same as all of the other cylinders, so thats good. I'm hoping to see an increase in compression once the new rings seat in and I check it warm.

It's a good thing I decided to pop out the pistons. All of the rod bearings looked really good except #3. The babbiting was almost totally gone down to the steel. I was able to clean the crank up with some emery cloth so hopefully it will be OK now. No idea why #3 wallered out the rod bearing the way it did and the others were OK. Maybe it developed some rust on that journal when it sat for 10 years in a ranchers field. Anyways, its been 6 months since I heard it run but I think it sounds OK. Sort of like an old John Deere tractor, some lifter noise that should clean up when I re-adjust the valves but no obvious knocking noises. I'll drain the initial fill of oil in a day or two and filter it through a cloth. Hopefully there won't be too much shiny stuff in it.
 

subzali

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excellent, sounds like your engine is running right! :thumb:

i know a year ago a head gasket for a 2F is/was still available, and that forklift suppliers are an alternate source for engine parts like that, but maybe your F.5 is different enough and it's discontinued, that's all I can offer :o
 

Uncle Ben

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Well, I got the old F back together today and got her to light up! I was really impressed with the JimC carb. After a major engine overhaul I only had to crank her about 15 seconds and she fired up then started idling great within 30 seconds. I tweaked the timing up a few degrees and now it seems to idle very smooth at about 700 rpm with pretty good throttle response. I haven't been able to drive it yet since my steering column is out but I'm shooting to get that done tomorrow.

There seems to be a very minor drip from the drain cock under the radiator. I took it out twice and really torqued it back in, even tried some silicone tape on the threads, still a very small drip. Anyone else have this issue?

I checked #4 just before I started it (it was 40 lbs before the rebuild) and it was 90lbs cold, same as all of the other cylinders, so thats good. I'm hoping to see an increase in compression once the new rings seat in and I check it warm.

It's a good thing I decided to pop out the pistons. All of the rod bearings looked really good except #3. The babbiting was almost totally gone down to the steel. I was able to clean the crank up with some emery cloth so hopefully it will be OK now. No idea why #3 wallered out the rod bearing the way it did and the others were OK. Maybe it developed some rust on that journal when it sat for 10 years in a ranchers field. Anyways, its been 6 months since I heard it run but I think it sounds OK. Sort of like an old John Deere tractor, some lifter noise that should clean up when I re-adjust the valves but no obvious knocking noises. I'll drain the initial fill of oil in a day or two and filter it through a cloth. Hopefully there won't be too much shiny stuff in it.


Very cool! Congratulations!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :thumb::thumb:
 

RicardoJM

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Excellent news. I bet it feels great to hear the engine running along. I have nothing to add on the radiator leak. In the past a bit of the white pipe tape has worked for similar small leaks. Perhaps we'll see your 40 at this weeks meeting.
 

Uncle Ben

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On my FJ-62's original radiator I ended up putting a bolt with teflon tape in the petcock threaded hole as I had the same problem. What it appears happened is the draincock was previously overtightened and bent the seat.
 

Air Randy

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I suspect that is what happened in this case. The teflon tape doesnt seem to work because the liquid is seeping past the mating surfaces and comes out of the weep hole midway through the drain cock, which is before the threads. I'm going to pop it out and puckey it up with silicon on the mating surface, that should take care of it for now.
 

MDH33

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Great to hear you have it running! They DO sound like old tractor engines, even when in perfect tune you'll hear the valves clicking away.

On you radiator drip, make sure that it's not originating higher up. My 60 had a leak in the seam, but it looked like a drip from the drain because it was lower down and the coolant just tended to migrate there.
 
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