DaveInDenver
Rising Sun Ham Guru
That was my point, the rears are mounted properly AFAIK.
Load adjusting rear shock options
- Thread starter Red_Chili
- Start date
RockRunner
Hard Core 4+
Bill, I have seen some write ups that use a *eep coil spring in the middle to support the extra weight. I had the page bookmarked for possible future use but lost it somewhere. If I run across it I will post it but try a search I will too.
Red_Chili
Hard Core 4+
Yep, ZUK came up with that one. Without some means of stopping body roll, it would make it MUCH worse. The other one he came up with is coils on each leaf spring bump stop. Not adjustable and a bit ghetto, but folks say it works mah-vell-us.
60wag
Rising Sun Member
- Joined
- Aug 23, 2005
- Messages
- 2,608
When I ran Rancho 9000s on my 60, I tried them upside down to preserve the adjuster knobs. They most definitely stopped acting as a shock. When mounted correctly they started working again.
In order to preserve your off highway flex and improve your on highway stability, I think an airbag system is in order.
In order to preserve your off highway flex and improve your on highway stability, I think an airbag system is in order.
Red_Chili
Hard Core 4+
Bruce, do you think airbags are up to offroading? I have heard they won't extend enough, and will get torn up as a result. Roger's idea of one mounted over the diff, where it would not need to flex much, might work though - as long as a swaybar was used to limit the increased potential for body roll on the highway.
Air Randy
Hard Core 4+
Bill,
Google "Firestone air suspension" then go to North America. They have an entire section devoted to how to design an air ride suspension and they have an 8.5 MG/85 page pdf file with all of the design parameter info in it. Should be able to tell you if you can get enough flex with their products for off-road use plus you can actually call and speak to their engineers.
Google "Firestone air suspension" then go to North America. They have an entire section devoted to how to design an air ride suspension and they have an 8.5 MG/85 page pdf file with all of the design parameter info in it. Should be able to tell you if you can get enough flex with their products for off-road use plus you can actually call and speak to their engineers.
rover67
Rising Sun Member
That's why I was wondering if they can be mounted on only one side of the bag... so they don't have to extend too far.
Nay
Hard Core 4+
- Joined
- Feb 25, 2006
- Messages
- 920
I'd invest my money in a higher end set of shocks and accept that fact that light towing is going to compress my springs a bit.
I know you like the 9000's, but they are so far below a baseline high end shock in performance. Of course, $700 - $800 for a much better set of shocks is not chump change, but you buy once and can both rebuild/re-valve and it's a good investment for a rig that will see hardcore offroad use and a wide variety of road usage.
These 9100 series bumpstops are also interesting:
http://www.bilsteinus.com/offroad_9100bump.php
I know you like the 9000's, but they are so far below a baseline high end shock in performance. Of course, $700 - $800 for a much better set of shocks is not chump change, but you buy once and can both rebuild/re-valve and it's a good investment for a rig that will see hardcore offroad use and a wide variety of road usage.
These 9100 series bumpstops are also interesting:
http://www.bilsteinus.com/offroad_9100bump.php
Air Randy
Hard Core 4+
Bill,
Also go to theshockshop .com and check their prices for air shocks. They are like $150 per pair for Ranchos or Gabriels. As long as you get the right length/travel for your application I think they would work offroad OK. This is what I recommended you check into, not the Fox offroad racing units that are $400+ each.
Also go to theshockshop .com and check their prices for air shocks. They are like $150 per pair for Ranchos or Gabriels. As long as you get the right length/travel for your application I think they would work offroad OK. This is what I recommended you check into, not the Fox offroad racing units that are $400+ each.
bigbluefj
Honorary Canuck Member
The air bags only get ripped if they rub on anything ie: sharp metal parts, one fellow in the RMLCA runs them on his 80 and this is what has happened to him in the past, install mistake on his part..
Red_Chili
Hard Core 4+
theshockshop.com resolves to http://www.learyracingproducts.com/. Is that the right place? It is in Denver. All of the options (search, selecting manufacturer, pretty much everything) show 'Coming Soon'. ???
Rancho doesn't make an airshock (AFAIK). Monroe does.
[edit] Ah, I found the link. http://www.shockshopusa.com/air-shocks.html
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RockRunner
Hard Core 4+
Bill,
how high is your diff from a mounting point above it? You may be able to mount two air bags on top of each other sort of. One thing to remember is that the air bags have to be straight up and down or the will collapse to the side where they will end up ripping for sure.
I guess if it were up to me I would;
how high is your diff from a mounting point above it? You may be able to mount two air bags on top of each other sort of. One thing to remember is that the air bags have to be straight up and down or the will collapse to the side where they will end up ripping for sure.
I guess if it were up to me I would;
- Check the shocks first
- Install the free sway bar, worry about disconnects later
- Look into the air bag set up or springs
- Maybe even a combination of coil/air bag set up. You can control it that way.
- Sell your rig to me and start all over
Red_Chili
Hard Core 4+
Tell you what, when I am dead I will will it to you. Right after Justin gets it. LOL
- Sell your rig to me and start all over
So I finally got time last night to check the shocks. They didn't seem quite as stiff on '5' as a new shock was (pretty subjective), but they were not as shot as I expected. Hmmmmmmmmmmmmm. And everything is tight on the vehicle.
Mounting the shocks in a / \ configuration does put them at a slight mechanical disadvantage, but they used to control things quite nicely.
I think the sway bar is gonna be pretty much mandatory no matter what I do. Ordered from JEGS (best price).
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Red_Chili
Hard Core 4+
Hmmm, interesting...
https://www.universalairsuspension....th=25&osCsid=fdd7b83b85b6a78348ee9766d7948428
https://www.universalairsuspension....th=25&osCsid=fdd7b83b85b6a78348ee9766d7948428
rover67
Rising Sun Member
you know rereading this thread, I tend to agree with Tom.
I think you need some shocks that work back on it, and do a nice sway bar with disconnects. I bet that sway bar would help tremendously.
Leave the springs till later..
I think you need some shocks that work back on it, and do a nice sway bar with disconnects. I bet that sway bar would help tremendously.
Leave the springs till later..
Air Randy
Hard Core 4+
Red_Chili
Hard Core 4+
Can you bring them to the meeting? THANK YOU Randy!
Looks like, if I need them longer, making longer center tubes is no big deal (drilling very carefully to align things though). Roger just disconnects one side of the rear swaybar, but I don't know what its flopping around might hang up on, if anything. I will have to investigate. Rubber bungees are a simple solution.
Looks like, if I need them longer, making longer center tubes is no big deal (drilling very carefully to align things though). Roger just disconnects one side of the rear swaybar, but I don't know what its flopping around might hang up on, if anything. I will have to investigate. Rubber bungees are a simple solution.
leiniesred
Hard Core 4+
Bill: I think you were traveling pretty heavy with extra weight way up on the rack. The stuff on the rack also added to your profile.
I found much more wind on Eastern 1/2 of the trip when compared to the Western 1/2 of the trip. I think that extra wind made it feel like the shocks were dying.
You might need a little more spring to support the weight you want to carry on trips.
I know my rig feels super sketchy if 4 big guys pile in it. It doesn't just sway down the road it "sashays!"
I found much more wind on Eastern 1/2 of the trip when compared to the Western 1/2 of the trip. I think that extra wind made it feel like the shocks were dying.
You might need a little more spring to support the weight you want to carry on trips.
I know my rig feels super sketchy if 4 big guys pile in it. It doesn't just sway down the road it "sashays!"
RockRunner
Hard Core 4+
Rudy has a good point Bill, I saw your rig and it was loaded up pretty full. With my springs, HD from Marlin, and 5100 shocks I can load up the rig and tow the boat with no sway. Your springs were made for a certain weight and I bet you went over that in Moab. Add to that your load on the roof and the wind and you will sway.
If you have a weight set you can try to re-create the conditions somewhat. Load up your rig with a certain amount of weight and drive it, don't forget the roof rack stuff. by adding and subtracting weight you can find your overload point and stick to that when loading for a big trip. Any truck/car when overloaded will start to sway and or wallow. I have overloaded my old GMC before with wood and it leaned one way or another.
Test it first before you go spend money, or does it do it when you are empty too?
If you have a weight set you can try to re-create the conditions somewhat. Load up your rig with a certain amount of weight and drive it, don't forget the roof rack stuff. by adding and subtracting weight you can find your overload point and stick to that when loading for a big trip. Any truck/car when overloaded will start to sway and or wallow. I have overloaded my old GMC before with wood and it leaned one way or another.
Test it first before you go spend money, or does it do it when you are empty too?
Red_Chili
Hard Core 4+
I took the shocks to High Country 4x4 just to compare with new ones. The guy there took one look at them and said they were leaking (looked like just road grime to me, not wet). We compared the compression damping and rebound to even an RS5000 and there was a noticeable difference - plus, there was a point in the push/pull of the shock where it just slipped, as if there was an air bubble in the damping. That alone would cause my symptoms. No problem warrantying them.
However, HC4x4 has a weird policy because they have been scammed by guys getting Rancho shocks from the junkyard and trying to warranty them (when they are still good) - so you have to buy them, and two weeks later, if Rancho credits HC4x4, they credit you. The auto parts store down the street (G&S Auto) will just swap them. They had to special order them but they should be here today, no issues swapping.
Oh, and if you think the Chili was loaded heavy for the pre run, you should've seen it the last few years for elk and antelope hunting! Steady as a stone on the highway. The sway issue started last fall towing the popup, especially on the way home from Wyoming, and it prompted me to build a new drop hitch (which did make a difference). Now I realize that, though the drop hitch is a good idea, I was chasing failing shocks.
The sway bar is on order, but they have to make it, so it won't be here for a month (maybe not in time for CM). So we will see.
However, HC4x4 has a weird policy because they have been scammed by guys getting Rancho shocks from the junkyard and trying to warranty them (when they are still good) - so you have to buy them, and two weeks later, if Rancho credits HC4x4, they credit you. The auto parts store down the street (G&S Auto) will just swap them. They had to special order them but they should be here today, no issues swapping.
Oh, and if you think the Chili was loaded heavy for the pre run, you should've seen it the last few years for elk and antelope hunting! Steady as a stone on the highway. The sway issue started last fall towing the popup, especially on the way home from Wyoming, and it prompted me to build a new drop hitch (which did make a difference). Now I realize that, though the drop hitch is a good idea, I was chasing failing shocks.
The sway bar is on order, but they have to make it, so it won't be here for a month (maybe not in time for CM). So we will see.