Groucho
Rising Sun Ham Guru
I ran the power direct to the battery.
I suppose you could tap into the fuse panel.
One of the questions for the general exam is "Where should the radio be wired from, the battery or the vehicles fuse panel?"
The correct answer is: Directly to the battery.
While the very casual user may see no problems arise from hooking their radio to the cigarette lighter/aux power outlet, in general the accepted safe practice is to wire the radio directly to the battery (or secondary fuse block, as long as said fuse block is wired for the correct current draw of all the appliances connected to it). Keep in mind that some of these radios use upwards of 30A draw when in transmit mode. Even the ARB 32Q freezer/fridge (which may connect to the cig lighter) draws 7A constant load!
Don't try and make sense of "My CB radio was alright hooking to the vehicles fuse block, so my HAM radio will be as well." The maximum legal output of a commercially sold CB radio is 5 watts. Most of our 2M radios are between 50 and 75 watts, and the all mode (HF, VHF, UHF) radios can come ready to give 100 watts power. Maybe Dave can give us the equation for current draw at 12V and 50W power. I guarantee that the vehicles fuse block does not have any spare openings rated to the numbers you will find.
The reason this is bad for us is because too many garage mechanics half-a$* our wiring, leading to a spaghetti mess under our seats and our hood. Not only does this promote problems, it also can lead to unsafe things happening like engine fires and short circuits. I had a negative battery cable fall off of a VW and it treated the battery as a fuseable link and fried it. The battery was GONE. Melted the insides like cheese in the microwave. The idea is that if general practice is to wire everything to the battery, less problems caused by wiring messes and less chance of unsafe things happening. Ultimately, it will encourage us to be btter at our "spaghetti mess" and become more professional with our installations.




