This question is for my sons 92 Pickup. He went to install his newly purchased Warrior rear bumper yesterday to find the tips of the frame rails are bent down. The left frame rail is minor but the right side is bend down at least an inch plus. Any advise on how bend or push back the rails? BAH (sledge)? Heat and BAH? Thanks.
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Frame Bent - Need Ideas for Straightening
- Thread starter Telly
- Start date
SteveH
Hard Core 4+
Good photos!
I would first loosen the bed and elevate it a few inches and block it up to give you some room to move under there, and maybe use alum. roof flashing pieces as guards to prevent fires.
I would first loosen the bed and elevate it a few inches and block it up to give you some room to move under there, and maybe use alum. roof flashing pieces as guards to prevent fires.
- Find a 3' section of steel that fits inside the frame channel tightly (or shim it so) and bolt it through the rear-most holes in the frame (the top and bottom holes). That way, this leverage piece does not impinge on the bent area.
- Heat the frame ahead of that area with two torches at the same time (one from each side) and get it good and red, and simply bend that section back up. It won't be perfect, but it might allow the new bumper to fit.
- You might have to shave the bumper mounts and shim a bit to get it to sit level and proper on the truck.
DaveInDenver
Rising Sun Ham Guru
A PO must have been rear ended or if not towed too much with the step bumper or maybe had a swing out bumper?
Anyway, the frames in 3rd gens I'm fairly sure are heat treated. So you'd need to heat it to rework it (e.g. annealing).
I wouldn't heat to glowing red personally. You only need it to be about 600°C to maybe e 700°C (so maybe 1,000°F to 1,300°F) to accomplish what you need (process annealing and stress relief). Going to cherry red is more like 1,600°F and could be significantly higher, which starts to make a difference as to what type of steel and risk for embrittlement since it's been technically cold worked already by being bent it might develop cracks later.
Either way you're probably going to risk losing the original strength so depending on the bumper you're putting on you might consider reinforcing with some extra steel since welding on the frame won't make it any worse at that point.
Anyway, the frames in 3rd gens I'm fairly sure are heat treated. So you'd need to heat it to rework it (e.g. annealing).
I wouldn't heat to glowing red personally. You only need it to be about 600°C to maybe e 700°C (so maybe 1,000°F to 1,300°F) to accomplish what you need (process annealing and stress relief). Going to cherry red is more like 1,600°F and could be significantly higher, which starts to make a difference as to what type of steel and risk for embrittlement since it's been technically cold worked already by being bent it might develop cracks later.
Either way you're probably going to risk losing the original strength so depending on the bumper you're putting on you might consider reinforcing with some extra steel since welding on the frame won't make it any worse at that point.
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The beds are straightfoward to remove. Three screws for the gas filler tube. Unplug the lights. Then the bed bolts. I lifted my 7' bed off with one other person, by hand. This will make the job much less of a head banger and less groveling around on the ground. Then when you decide it is time to drive to Bear Frame and Axle just zip tie your lights and plate to the frame. The techs with the hydrolic frame bender will thank you, and may charge less. Just remember "If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy."
dan1554
Rising Sun Member
This is what I did with my 89 when I installed chevy leafs and needed to extend the frame. Found a length of (way too thick) square tube that fit the frame and pounded/burned it in. BUT if you're going to do all that, might be better off just making your own bumper.
Attachments
Alright you wanted ideas so I'll toss out the opposite approach; What about modifying that one arm of the new bumper- cut it, tack a plate to one side of it, bolt it up, eyeball it so it's straight then tack the other side. Take it off, weld the plate really well, spray paint it, then bolt it on and forget the frame was bent. You're not going to tow with that bumper, it doesn't need to hold a swing-out, why even mess with the frame?
Stuckinthe80s
Rising Sun Member
I like this approach.
The other thing I was thinking was finding a donor in a junkyard and hacking off that last section of it's frame. Then cut back on your frame until you get to the straight section then butt weld it and reinforce it with a diamond shaped plate. The C10 guys use this method when they shorten the long beds to short beds and I haven't heard of any failures.
Tim's approach would be a lot easier though and really achieve what is needed.
Cocarlisle
Hard Core 4+
Was thinking similar to Tim
Make the bumper fit
A lot of work to just get a bumper on the other way
Weld it up or even re drill holes on the bumper and shim it with washers so it fits good and snug
Done
Beer !
Make the bumper fit
A lot of work to just get a bumper on the other way
Weld it up or even re drill holes on the bumper and shim it with washers so it fits good and snug
Done
Beer !
Now you're talking... "just drill new holes" through the frame or bumper is even easier! Jason we should start a fab shop.... I'll bring the WD40.
DaveInDenver
Rising Sun Ham Guru
The part about not at least minimally addressing the bend that would concern me is the bed.
Maybe Martin can get more recent photos but the bed on Imelda had cracks starting to develop where the inner and outer walls of the bed meet at the rear, which in this case will be right above where the frame is now pulling down on the floor on the rear bolts. You can see the lip in front of the tailgate was also wrinkling.
Having the WilderNest weight and spreading didn't do the sides of the bed any favors in my case.
I even had a Marlin bumper that reinforced the frame rearward of the shackle hangers primarily because it is a weaker length of frame and the bed is fairly prone to damage in the rear corners.
Maybe Martin can get more recent photos but the bed on Imelda had cracks starting to develop where the inner and outer walls of the bed meet at the rear, which in this case will be right above where the frame is now pulling down on the floor on the rear bolts. You can see the lip in front of the tailgate was also wrinkling.
Having the WilderNest weight and spreading didn't do the sides of the bed any favors in my case.
I even had a Marlin bumper that reinforced the frame rearward of the shackle hangers primarily because it is a weaker length of frame and the bed is fairly prone to damage in the rear corners.
DaveInDenver
Rising Sun Ham Guru
I'd at least stack some washers to shim the bed and relieve some of the downward pulling on it.