FJ60 Radiator Help

[rover67]

For burping I do like Mike but have been meaning to get one of these:

24680 Spill-Free Funnel

The new clear funnel allows a quick visual check of the coolant from across the shop. Comes with a lid to keep contaminants out as well as store the caps and adapters.

www.lislecorp.com

 

[60wag]

For both my 60s and 80, I put a prestone flush T up near the heater control valve. It makes it easy to vent any air trapped in the system. No need for any special fill procedure, just loosen cap a bit and wait for some coolant to dribble out.

 

[RDub]

That is my method, too, sort of. Instead of the flush T I just remove the heater hose (j-hose) from the vertical fitting at the back of the head and then do the same thing as Bruce. That connection is close to the system high point and if you fill slowly the air purges naturally and only a small amount more coolant (from the coolant overflow tank, usually) is required to completely fill the system. Never, ever had to burp it doing it this way. Obviously, turn the heater temp controls to full hot, too.

 

[Telly]

From Partsouq...This is consistent with what I found on my 60, one rubber gasket on the top of the t-stat. Partsouq PN vs quantity also agrees, just 1 gasket called out.

This configuration is exactly how I installed the t-stat on the FJ40. I had to order the rubber top gasket separately.

That funnel setup is slick as snot. I need to pick one of those up fo sho.

 

[nakman]

Ok interesting fill ideas. The fill hose on my 60 radiator is bent down, like someone leaned on it too much while doing something else, and I'm paranoid about trying to bend it back up, figure that's just sure to crack it. Maybe @Romer helped Art swap plugs one time, I dunno...

So on flat ground, the coolant almost has to run uphill to get into the radiator... I was thinking of a funnel that resembles more of a beer bong would do well here? I may try this if I can find some clear tubing.

Gonna be a couple weeks before I have the new gaskets... I ordered them from that toyotapartsdeal.com place but then got a notification they're back ordered until 12/31, so I ordered another set from PartSouq, which is quoting 7-9 days. Will be interesting to see if it's the same part.

 

[RicardoJM]

For burping I do like Mike but have been meaning to get one of these:

24680 Spill-Free Funnel

The new clear funnel allows a quick visual check of the coolant from across the shop. Comes with a lid to keep contaminants out as well as store the caps and adapters.

www.lislecorp.com

These are great. I have been using it for a few years and it makes the entire process move along so much easier.

 

[Crash]

Also I don’t know if a fj60 era 2f has a thermostat with a jiggle valve, I am sure it does.. if it does it needs to be positioned correctly
It can cause weird temp issues

One other thing is Did you burp it when done?

Here is a picture on orientation of the jiggle valve

View attachment 100219

First time I've ever heard of orienting your jiggle valve and with instructions to go with it. Thanks Mike! What FSM did the this info come from as it doesn't appear to be from a 40 or 60 series manual? What would the symptoms of an improperly oriented valve be?

 

[nakman]

What would the symptoms of an improperly oriented valve be?

so bad, you don't even want to know. like, worse than touching the blue knob kinda bad.

 

[60wag]

For a horizontal tstat, I doubt the orientation of the jiggle,vent hole matters. I've had cars with vertical mount that specified putting the hole at 12oclock, I assumed to vent trapped air.

 

[simps80]

Bruce is I am sure right
It probably doesn’t matter on a “horizontal” tstat
Physics also agrees whereas in vertical it would..

But
I had similar problems after redoing cooling system with all new Toyota hoses aisin water pump oem Toyota radiator and tstat) on this latest 1970 2f

ran too cool… heater Luke warm byproduct

Took it apart
1. tested that the tstat would open in hot water 2. did the thing with the jiggler,
3. burped it radiator high and it went away

Jiggler is probably witch doctery but in my relatively (compared to this group) inexperienced experience Mr T. Does things mostly for a reason so I try to mimic him when I can

My problems probably went away getting air out and filling completely

I didn’t take the scientific approach (one variable at a time) I took the shotgun approach

@Crash
It came from my phone
But I think it’s from a 40 thread where vaevictus compiled all the conventional talk of how to replace a thermostat pretty sure that’s where I got it

I guess what I am saying is Disregard the jiggle talk unless you are already gonna tear it back apart for gaskets then why not

Or other reasons unrelated to thermostats where one may choose to engage in “jiggle talk” and “things” running either too hot or too cold amiright?

 

[Crash]

Bruce is I am sure right
It probably doesn’t matter on a “horizontal” tstat
Physics also agrees whereas in vertical it would..

But
I had similar problems after redoing cooling system with all new Toyota hoses aisin water pump oem Toyota radiator and tstat) on this latest 1970 2f

ran too cool… heater Luke warm byproduct

Took it apart
1. tested that the tstat would open in hot water 2. did the thing with the jiggler,
3. burped it radiator high and it went away

Jiggler is probably witch doctery but in my relatively (compared to this group) inexperienced experience Mr T. Does things mostly for a reason so I try to mimic him when I can

My problems probably went away getting air out and filling completely

I didn’t take the scientific approach (one variable at a time) I took the shotgun approach

@Crash
It came from my phone
But I think it’s from a 40 thread where vaevictus compiled all the conventional talk of how to replace a thermostat pretty sure that’s where I got it

I guess what I am saying is Disregard the jiggle talk unless you are already gonna tear it back apart for gaskets then why not

Or other reasons unrelated to thermostats where one may choose to engage in “jiggle talk” and “things” running either too hot or too cold amiright?

Osoright>

 

[nakman]

Trying to understand how an engine can run cool... like after 20 minutes or an hour of driving. Wouldn't the thermostat be wide open at that point? So as if there were no thermostat? So why isn't the coolant all at the same temperature? I've literally been staring off into spacing pondering the physics of coolant being intentially dammed at the thermostat to absorb more heat.

I thought the whole point of the thermostat was to isolate the coolant to the engine to help it warm up better/faster.. but at some point the engine gets hot so then it opens up to allow that coolant to cool down and not overheat. Is it less simple than that? Just not adding up how a misplaced gasket could create a system where coolant never warms up.

 

[Crash]

Seems to me that you are thinking of the t-stat as an on/off or fully open/fully closed device which it isn’t. That help?

 

[nakman]

I guess so.. so it needs to always restrict coolant flow, to maintain operating temperature?

 

[60wag]

Yes

 

[RDub]

From a Toyota 2F service manual...illustrates how the t-stat is a variable flowrate device dependent on coolant temperature feedback. In other words, yes, the system needs some sort of restriction, and that restriction varies depending on coolant temp, which is dependent on engine load, vehicle speed, and outside air temperature. So it isn't too surprising that the engine is running cool given the season we are in. It may have turned out differently if it was August. Make sense?

 

[nakman]

Ok this is all very interesting. So the next time I'm in a car with overheating issues, let's say faulty fan clutch or something, and the old way home would have involved turning the heat up all the way and opening all the windows to continue to drive across the desert, now I could simply remove the thermostat to achieve probably the same or greater impact to engine temps. I wouldn't have thought of that before.

 

[Crash]

Older vehicles, such as our 40s and 60s, aren’t as particular as newer vehicles that rely on computer management to keep all systems happy with coolant temps being an important data input. Removing a thermostat in an emergency situation won’t have as much impact, in other words, on an older vehicle.

 

[nakman]

Alright I am declaring this fixed. I pulled the thermostat today, dripped really clean looking antifreeze all over the driveway, then inspected the thermostat and saw I did in fact have a rubber gasket on the top of it, but it was pretty warn and kinda squished. So I peeled it off and replaced it with a new one, which is maybe .020" thicker, but also new, so doesn't have a bunch of indents on it. I also oriented the jiggle ball towards the engine upon reassembly, then installed using the new housing gasket, which felt more rubber than paper, and definitely thicker than no gasket.

I think the orientation of the jiggle ball was the most significant... really not much difference on those thermostat gaskets, and the added gap created by the new thermostat gasket should have made matters worse, not better, presuming we're after greater flow restriction here? Either way the gauge in the dash is right where it used to be, before I started messing with stuff. But without the drip.

Oh, and the antifreeze beer bong worked excellent- the tubing even held the funnel upright while I filled it.

Gonna let her cool down a bit then see if I can fit any more coolant in there...

 

[Cruisertrash]

@nakman I run pretty cool in my 60 too. I have a temp sensor in the upper radiator hose and it floats between 178 and 190, most sitting right at 182-183. The factory gauge always tells me 2/3, though sometimes on long highway inclines in the mountains it might come up a little. Coolant system was flushed with cleaner, flushed with distilled water, and refilled 3/2021. 6 gallon! She's long since been burped and is full. The temps I'm seeing are at every condition: -5* in the winter, 98* in the summer, highway, traffic, wheeling, etc.

Here's the kicker though ... PO installed a thermostat. Looks like he used 1/2 a tube of red RTV on the housing. Before the flush-&-fill I used to find floaties of RTV in the filler neck. Sounds like I should probably peel that apart and see what's happening in there, eh? I'm swapping the head in a few weeks so that would be a good time.