EFI Relay Power Distribution?

[DaveInDenver]

Gotcha.

You're giving us Arkansans to much credit...

These are the go to for ALL things wire related:

House, car, boat, airplane. If you need a splice, put a nut on it!

So you were the person who wired the trailer light harness on my old truck then. Wire nuts and wire taps just don't go the distance. Shocking, I know. They did wrap everything in duct tape. Probably seemed like a good idea to seal it.

 

[White Stripe]

This is a great tech discussion. I too try to avoid screw on terminals due to vibration issues. Bolts can work I think though because you can get them tight enough they won't back out.

 

[RDub]

What I discovered when I fixed my radio...this is after I removed about half of the rats nest...

 

[DaveInDenver]

Gotcha. I think I like that idea the best! I have Sumitomo unsealed terminals and really good crimpers so I think I'm going to go that route. I have a metric butt-ton of these and their male counterparts:

They are going to be inside, near the glove box and are just like the other connectors/terminals in that area so I don't think they need to be sealed.

BTW, since it's inside and you don't need it sealed there's other options that are Toyota-equivalent OEM. If you do go this way even without the seals it may be tricky to get two wires to sit nice. So it may not be an ideal offered solution. You probably want to get a small spool of actual automotive cross-linked wire with the thin insulation (e.g. SXL, etc). LMK if that doesn't make sense.

Male:

6098-0154 - Sumitomo | TS187U-10P - Corsa Technic | 10-Way Kit

Motorsport electrical products: OEM and hard to find terminals and connector kits, wiring, harness supplies, tooling, and sensors for modern and vintage motorcycle, automotive applications. Easy online shopping, low cost shipping options, to expedited around the world. We accept Paypal and...

www.corsa-technic.com

Female:

6098-0156 - Sumitomo | TS187U-10S - Corsa Technic | 10-Way Kit

Motorsport electrical products: OEM and hard to find terminals and connector kits, wiring, harness supplies, tooling, and sensors for modern and vintage motorcycle, automotive applications. Easy online shopping, low cost shipping options, to expedited around the world. We accept Paypal and...

www.corsa-technic.com

 

[Stuckinthe80s]

BTW, since it's inside and you don't need it sealed there's other options that are Toyota-equivalent OEM. If you do go this way even without the seals it may be tricky to get two wires to sit nice. So it may not be an ideal offered solution. You probably want to get a small spool of actual automotive cross-linked wire with the thin insulation (e.g. SXL, etc). LMK if that doesn't make sense.

Male:

6098-0154 - Sumitomo | TS187U-10P - Corsa Technic | 10-Way Kit

Motorsport electrical products: OEM and hard to find terminals and connector kits, wiring, harness supplies, tooling, and sensors for modern and vintage motorcycle, automotive applications. Easy online shopping, low cost shipping options, to expedited around the world. We accept Paypal and...

www.corsa-technic.com

Female:

6098-0156 - Sumitomo | TS187U-10S - Corsa Technic | 10-Way Kit

Motorsport electrical products: OEM and hard to find terminals and connector kits, wiring, harness supplies, tooling, and sensors for modern and vintage motorcycle, automotive applications. Easy online shopping, low cost shipping options, to expedited around the world. We accept Paypal and...

www.corsa-technic.com

Yeah, this is what I ordered in preparation for re-pinning/terminating other wire runs:

https://www.corsa-technic.com/item.php?item_id=1678

It is a direct fit for the IH1 connector which is probably where I'm going to place all of this now that I have the idea from you guys to use it as such. That connector is on the 80 side and it, along with IH2, is where most of the integration has taken place. IH1 was thinned out quite a bit and will have room to take care of this bidness.

For reference:

 

[DaveInDenver]

What's cool about that connector (IH1) is it looks like a hybrid with two size/pitch terminals. You could run the fuel pump high current maybe even on it. You'd have to verify the size of pins 14/15/21/22 is sufficient of course (the largest TS090 is 14AWG AFAIK). Also that might give a path to introduce motor noise inside. So maybe that's not a great idea compared to a relay mounted in engine bay or under the frame.

 

[Stuckinthe80s]

Yeah, that connector is already feeding the fuel pump in the stock configuration on the 80 side via the circuit opening relay (Y-R pin 2):

Y-R comes through IH1, pin 22, from the engine harness:

Then the Y-R wire, which is a 14 awg wire, runs through the dash harness to end up at the COR which is in the drives kick panel. So I'm thinking if I run 14 awg from the EFI relay, to pin 22, then I can daisy chain the other pins off of that starting point.

That's basically how Mr. T did it:

EB1 is the connector just outside of the fuse/relay box on the drives side fender well. It goes into the stock engine harness and feeds a bunch of things before going into the cab:

 

[Stuckinthe80s]

I spent all weekend cleaning up wiring and I still don't like how I spliced everything together. I used the molex connectors like you suggested @DaveInDenver and used the correct ratchet style crimper to get the correct, rectangular crimps like what is shown in the NASA work instruction but I still don't like it.

Now my plan is to find a bigger fuse panel from a later model truck (first gen Tundra or Sequoia) that has fused circuits for each of these or just build one from an aftermarket box to replace the stock 80 series relay/fuse box that's in the engine bay on the drivers side fender. Then I'll run wire from it to the circuits listed in the first post of this thread.

I'm drawing some inspiration from this guy's build but I don't know if I need to go that crazy (post #98): https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/my...nd-a750f-5spd-auto.835190/page-5#post-9579742

 

[Stuckinthe80s]

Okay, another change of plans....

I'm going to get one of these:

I'll feed power to it with a heavier relay that get's the same signals the EFI relay would and let it run power to the distribution block. Off of that, I'll use a relay for the fuel pump ECU/O2 sensors, the main ECM using a relay with a diode to protect the ECM a bit more, and the IGN relay. Then, I'll run the EVAP and transponder key amplifier power off of fused only circuits. You may note that the box listed is bussed on both the negative and positive and I'm confused on whether or not that is a good or bad thing. They offer options that aren't bussed and I can't figure out why I would need that. @DaveInDenver can you help explain?

 

[DaveInDenver]

Your current factory distribution panel(s) haven't got negative busses. So there's applications where they're unnecessary cost, space and weight.

My feeling is it's better to have one than not when it's adding to the original wiring. If you were wiring a hot rod completely and could plan a good distributed system of commons ground points like the OEM did then it would be perhaps a reasonable option not to need a negative bus at a main panel.

So your job is kind of in the middle between just an aux panel and from-scratch starting from zero, so only you can really say for sure. The cost is really a wash since you're not doing a million cars like Toyota where $10 savings on each makes a big dent. You could probably accommodate the space, although that might be a significant point.

Nice thing is you can just do home runs on all circuits without worrying about finding a suitable local return. But you don't have to use it, if you're wiring a factory circuit and the original ground is present you can still use it.

ETA: I might also opine that having a buss and running all ground back on new circuits would take the guesswork out of wiring. You won't have to worry if Toyota put one for you, whether it's large enough, etc. It probably would also reduce chances of future gremlins.