Don't know what to do next....

[treerootCO]

IMO the purpose of a thermostat is to keep coolant in the radiator long enough for it to dissipate the heat. I run a hotter thermostat and it keeps my engine cooler. If the upper o-ring was missing it could potentially rattle around and let coolant past before it has a chance to cool. It would be a restriction either way and probably wouldn't matter in the grand scheme of things.

 

[Rzeppa]

Who said anything about the lower portion of the block?

I did, based on visual observations of the last couple of blocks I was inside, and was adding and amplifying on your comment about the flow being less in the rear of the block's water jacket.

 

[74fj40]

For this reason, a muriatic acid soak/flush might be feasable, inexpensive and potentially efficacious.

do you have any mroe info on this? can it ben while the engine is in the car? or does the engine have to be completely torn apart?


thanks in advanced

 

[nuclearlemon]

drain rad fluid. fill with flush...run engine to operating temps, drain, flush a couple times and refill with antifreeze/water mix.

 

[Rzeppa]

drain rad fluid. fill with flush...run engine to operating temps, drain, flush a couple times and refill with antifreeze/water mix.

What Ige said. Basically, you don't want the muriatic acid anywhere near anything aluminum, such as the t-stat housing, it'll eat it up. But cast iron like the block, head or F water pump housing won't care.

 

[treerootCO]

Ige forgot a major part! First you need to buy an all original '64 40 that hasn't run in 25 years but fired right up and even had brakes. Then after the whole flushing process, you leave nice clean water in the block the ONE DAY IT GOT COLD ENOUGH TO FREEZE SOLID!!

At least that is my experience when I cracked the block in two.

 

[wesintl]

remove the flux capacitor. They don't work well at altitude

has to be something treeroot listed. He covered most everything Let me know if you need a hand otherwise i'll be sealing up a tranny and xfer. I might need a hand if you guys have a 1/2 hour or so getting it back in.

 

[74fj40]

can't remove the flux capacitor - only way we can afford to run it... We'll be around - just let us know when..

remove the flux capacitor. They don't work well at altitude

has to be something treeroot listed. He covered most everything Let me know if you need a hand otherwise i'll be sealing up a tranny and xfer. I might need a hand if you guys have a 1/2 hour or so getting it back in.

 

[74fj40]

hey wes, thanks for the offer. and we'll most likely have to take you up on that.

but if you still want help on putting the tranny and xfer back in, just let me know

 

[74fj40]

OK- checked the compression numbers today.

1-120
2-118
3-119
4-120
5-120
6-120

 

[Romer]

Great numbers. Did you reset it between each cyl. Some testers need to be and some don't.

So are you up and running again?

 

[74fj40]

unfortunately, no....still running very hot....

We did reset the guage between cylinders..
Then we squirted a little oil in each cylinder and the compression readings went up to about 130-135 per cylinder - I know this may mean that the rings aren't seated correctly - would this happen on a fresh rebuild, and the rings still breaking in?

 

[Rzeppa]

Then we squirted a little oil in each cylinder and the compression readings went up to about 130-135 per cylinder - I know this may mean that the rings aren't seated correctly - would this happen on a fresh rebuild, and the rings still breaking in?

It's possible, how many miles on the rebuild?

 

[74fj40]

Maybe 400....

It's possible, how many miles on the rebuild?

 

[Rzeppa]

I just re-read the original post, where it said that it had a water pump and fan clutch from a 60 - which would mean a couple things. 60s have an oil cooler and an extra hose fitting for the oil cooler. What happened to that? Is it blocked or do you have an oil cooler (with corresponding t-stat housing with hose fitting)?

And, fan clutches are notorious for not working properly. Even new ones. Mark Whatley has written about how all the aftermarket fan clutches he's been getting lately are too small to be effective for a 2F and he's gone back to OEM. Used ones can have worn out silicone fluid or none from leaking out. They can be rebuilt and new fluid is available from dealer. I've seen more stories about overheating problems solved by replacing/rebuilding/replenishing the fluid in the fan clutch solved overheating problems in a stock setup than any other cause.

 

[74fj40]

Sorry - should have updated the thread - we removed the newer water pump and replaced it with the old and an 8 blade direct drive fan.
Made no difference in the temps....

I just re-read the original post, where it said that it had a water pump and fan clutch from a 60 - which would mean a couple things. 60s have an oil cooler and an extra hose fitting for the oil cooler. What happened to that? Is it blocked or do you have an oil cooler (with corresponding t-stat housing with hose fitting)?

And, fan clutches are notorious for not working properly. Even new ones. Mark Whatley has written about how all the aftermarket fan clutches he's been getting lately are too small to be effective for a 2F and he's gone back to OEM. Used ones can have worn out silicone fluid or none from leaking out. They can be rebuilt and new fluid is available from dealer. I've seen more stories about overheating problems solved by replacing/rebuilding/replenishing the fluid in the fan clutch solved overheating problems in a stock setup than any other cause.