wesintl
Moderator
with a little bit of 90wt.. lol
Compression Check Now what?
- Thread starter azcromntic
- Start date
I fixed the throttle cable. I made a new cable stop for it.
It shifts much nicer. Still same power after it shifts.
It shifts much nicer. Still same power after it shifts.
I added the oil seperator and have driven about 30 miles. It's only collected like half-teaspoon. I'm going to drive it for 440 miles and see what I get.
Also, almost had a bad accident: Had some water get sucked into the PCV hose going into the manifold. Caught it quickly and shut it down. Nothing was ruined but a side effect was that the EGR for VSV is working again and check engine light went off. I thought that was interesting...
I noticed that having the kick-down cable working has a noticeable effect in certain circumstances that make me feel more confident that this thing isn't dead yet. Much better response and "power" feel going up hills and merging into traffic. I bet I get better mileage too.
At first it did not seem that the kick-down made that much difference but recently I have noticed some big differences.
I also did some visual blue smoke detection which revealed no big clouds of blue smoke. I'll be trying this several more times when I get the chance. Most likely then my oil is leaking out the rear seal and valve cover/spark plug gaskets. We'll see. Maybe I will rig up some kind of pan beneath the bell inspection hole and see how much I catch. Anyone know how to do that? Any ideas?
Also, almost had a bad accident: Had some water get sucked into the PCV hose going into the manifold. Caught it quickly and shut it down. Nothing was ruined but a side effect was that the EGR for VSV is working again and check engine light went off. I thought that was interesting...
I noticed that having the kick-down cable working has a noticeable effect in certain circumstances that make me feel more confident that this thing isn't dead yet. Much better response and "power" feel going up hills and merging into traffic. I bet I get better mileage too.
At first it did not seem that the kick-down made that much difference but recently I have noticed some big differences.
I also did some visual blue smoke detection which revealed no big clouds of blue smoke. I'll be trying this several more times when I get the chance. Most likely then my oil is leaking out the rear seal and valve cover/spark plug gaskets. We'll see. Maybe I will rig up some kind of pan beneath the bell inspection hole and see how much I catch. Anyone know how to do that? Any ideas?
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After I fixed the throttle cable I am still impressed at the responsiveness even with 247K on the odometer. My S10 Blazer was pretty much dead at 160K (I was third owner).
I can drive it for a while but eventually I'm going to have to do something. Once again I tossed and turned over all the options, just like everyone else who has a 1FZFE with high mileage and low mpg. I've narrowed it down to 3 options. Maybe you have some others? If so post up.
1. Just keep driving my gas saver Saturn or go get the Rav 4 like I want, freshen the 1FZFE and park the 80 and only drive it once a week or on trips.
2. Swap in a diesel.
3. Swap in a diesel AND keep driving my gas saving car/Rav4
Obviously I'll have keep doing #1 for now.
As for swapping a diesel I found a thread about swapping a 4D34 diesel. Seems like a lot of work but engine went in great. I also read about a 4BD1T or 4BD2T swap but that was into a 60. Both came in at around $5000 (them doing the work themselves). For me it'd be more like $7000 due to lack of tools and probably needing to hire out welding and such.
Can a 4BD1T or 4BD2T even be swapped to an 80? I've seen two threads saying it can but AFAIK they never started.
Why isn't the 12H-T (err whatever it is) a good swap?
Anyone around here for hire to do a diesel swap?
I can drive it for a while but eventually I'm going to have to do something. Once again I tossed and turned over all the options, just like everyone else who has a 1FZFE with high mileage and low mpg. I've narrowed it down to 3 options. Maybe you have some others? If so post up.
1. Just keep driving my gas saver Saturn or go get the Rav 4 like I want, freshen the 1FZFE and park the 80 and only drive it once a week or on trips.
2. Swap in a diesel.
3. Swap in a diesel AND keep driving my gas saving car/Rav4
Obviously I'll have keep doing #1 for now.
As for swapping a diesel I found a thread about swapping a 4D34 diesel. Seems like a lot of work but engine went in great. I also read about a 4BD1T or 4BD2T swap but that was into a 60. Both came in at around $5000 (them doing the work themselves). For me it'd be more like $7000 due to lack of tools and probably needing to hire out welding and such.
Can a 4BD1T or 4BD2T even be swapped to an 80? I've seen two threads saying it can but AFAIK they never started.
Why isn't the 12H-T (err whatever it is) a good swap?
Anyone around here for hire to do a diesel swap?
A 12H-T was designed to go into a 60 series, and it was only built for a couple of years. Great engine IMO, but not enough of them (or parts) worldwide to justify swapping it into a U.S. vehicle.
An 80 needs a 1HD-T or 1HD-FT IMO. I've seen some threads on MUD of folks swapping in those Isuzu diesels into 80s. I think a couple of them have finished and are driving them.
An 80 needs a 1HD-T or 1HD-FT IMO. I've seen some threads on MUD of folks swapping in those Isuzu diesels into 80s. I think a couple of them have finished and are driving them.