RDub
Trail Ready
@Cruisertrash might be a good resource. He did a similar mod on his recently.
-
COLOYOTA EXPO: Last week to pre-order a t-shirt!
Our annual swap meet + show and shine. Saturday, May 17. Register now & pre-order the official event t-shirt to make sure you get one. Click here to register now. Only $5 to attend (no additional charge to participate in the swap meet).
‼️ T-Shirt pre-orders end on Monday, April 28. That's the first Monday after Cruise Moab. Pre-order your t-shirt now and save $5.
Ceracote to Exhaust manifold: thoughts, ideas or experience
- Thread starter fyffer
- Start date
Cruisertrash
Rising Sun Member
I did what mod?
Cruisertrash
Rising Sun Member
Inukshuk
Rising Sun Member
It will be a while before I am hooking up the air intake but this is all helpful to my planning.
I'm leaning towards thermal blankets over the exhaust manifolds vs. ceramic coating.
I'm encouraged that I may be able to keep the snorkel functional (5.3 LS)
I'm leaning towards thermal blankets over the exhaust manifolds vs. ceramic coating.
I'm encouraged that I may be able to keep the snorkel functional (5.3 LS)
fyffer
Rising Sun Member
Been looking at various Thermal blankets as well but a concern I have with that, is the spark plug wires. How heat tolerant are those but I believe with some creative ideas one might be able to work around them, some. Lava blanket ones seems as the best but also the costliest one. Busted me some nuts today trying to remove existing heat shield (on the manifold that is).
JohnnyP
Rising Sun Member
Manifold options
Boot protectors
Spark Plug Heat Shield - Ignition Heat Shields - Heatshield Products
Find the ideal spark plug heat shield in the complete collection from Heatshield Products. Buy a spark plug wire heat sleeve online for extreme insulation.
www.heatshieldproducts.com
Being you started with a 1FZ the airbox can stay in the factory spot. Youll have to trim a the lip/bracket that holds the 1FZ maf off of the air box lid and then you can run a 3.75" to 4" silicone reducer from lid to LS intake. Not super familiar with the 5.3's intake but 3.75 is the 1fz airbox outlet size.
fyffer
Rising Sun Member
Funny you mentioned spark plug heat shields, ordered some titanium ones from Summit this AM. Removed and thinking replacing O2 sensors, cross referenced to some prior up to -03 Jeep ( Auto Zone, not me). Has me confused to no end.
Last edited:
powderpig
Hard Core 4+
- Joined
- Aug 25, 2005
- Messages
- 1,526
Interesting thread. I have been geting manifolds coated for a long time.(over 20 years) And being a diesel mechanic in the 80's for Cummins. Seen
lots of blankets or covers for the turbo and exhaust systems.
I believe that coating the manifolds is a way to move heat down to the cat Quicker to fire off the cats, Remember Cats need high tempetures
to operate. Unless the Exhaust temps at the location of the Cats is over 1600 F, there should be damage to the casts. I believe the coating is a plus for any engine. Exhaust pipe will cool the inside temps. These days, many manifacutures of vehicles put cats as close to the manifolds as possiable, most cats are only insulated with shields, beside the internal insulation between layers of steel.
As for blankets, if you off road your vehicles in water, the insluated blankets will retain water till they dry, creating smells and over time, depending on the water, these smells may be foul. My experience with insluated blankets make me not want to use them on exhaust pipe hanging low. If you look at what Toyota uses under the 80 series on the passenger side is double layer heat sheild with with either air gap(my guess) or very thin insulation. But since it is sealed by crimps, it is faily water proof.
In the 80 Working for Cummins, I would see damage from winter driving from Truckers wanting to keep heat out from under the hood
in the summer. Exhaust pipe rot was an issue. Cast iron, headers and turbo houseing would have big pits, an could lead to cracking from heat
flexing. But hey, this was in the 80's and in Alaska. Trucks would typically do 100K or more a year. So lots of hrs on the road. Lots of water and salt as well getting all over under their hoods.
Converse was working on Generators systems as well. We used blankets on the whole system to keep out heat of the enclosed unit the generator was housed in. So if the Exhasut system was 10 feet long, it was fully wrapped with exhaust wrap.
While blankets may help a lot. Maybe just dimpled single layer heat shield would be a better idea for offroading when involving water crossings and wet enviroments.
As always, just my opinion, Take it with a grain of salt.
Cheers
lots of blankets or covers for the turbo and exhaust systems.
I believe that coating the manifolds is a way to move heat down to the cat Quicker to fire off the cats, Remember Cats need high tempetures
to operate. Unless the Exhaust temps at the location of the Cats is over 1600 F, there should be damage to the casts. I believe the coating is a plus for any engine. Exhaust pipe will cool the inside temps. These days, many manifacutures of vehicles put cats as close to the manifolds as possiable, most cats are only insulated with shields, beside the internal insulation between layers of steel.
As for blankets, if you off road your vehicles in water, the insluated blankets will retain water till they dry, creating smells and over time, depending on the water, these smells may be foul. My experience with insluated blankets make me not want to use them on exhaust pipe hanging low. If you look at what Toyota uses under the 80 series on the passenger side is double layer heat sheild with with either air gap(my guess) or very thin insulation. But since it is sealed by crimps, it is faily water proof.
In the 80 Working for Cummins, I would see damage from winter driving from Truckers wanting to keep heat out from under the hood
in the summer. Exhaust pipe rot was an issue. Cast iron, headers and turbo houseing would have big pits, an could lead to cracking from heat
flexing. But hey, this was in the 80's and in Alaska. Trucks would typically do 100K or more a year. So lots of hrs on the road. Lots of water and salt as well getting all over under their hoods.
Converse was working on Generators systems as well. We used blankets on the whole system to keep out heat of the enclosed unit the generator was housed in. So if the Exhasut system was 10 feet long, it was fully wrapped with exhaust wrap.
While blankets may help a lot. Maybe just dimpled single layer heat shield would be a better idea for offroading when involving water crossings and wet enviroments.
As always, just my opinion, Take it with a grain of salt.
Cheers
fyffer
Rising Sun Member
So I cleaned exhaust manifold and pipes, some masking. Painted ( brush) engine in with a VHT flame proof paint (very toxic). Then about 24 hrs later cured per instructions. None of it was easy per my experience. Added new spark wires with heat protection, installed new O2 sensors upstream only as downstream was recently removed at a shop.
Attachments
fyffer
Rising Sun Member
Working on adding blanket to it, following reading PP’s post. Will defer from covering the pipes, the most heat I found was at the manifold and pipe junction at about 340-350 degrees after paint, so that point will be covered as well as outside portion of manifolds.
Started and it’s a biscuit.
Started and it’s a biscuit.