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bushings?

timmbuck2

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Replacing the damaged leafs on my 73 40 this weekend with used stock replacements. (Thanks Ben!) Any idea where I could find some bushings locally? I will probably swap out all 4 leafs while I am at it, the new used ones look better than the ones on there. I plan on buying all new Skyjackers some day so I will get new brackets and shackles and greasable pins at that time...

Thanks!

T
 

timmbuck2

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corsair23

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Red_Chili

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Urethane may hold up better, HTH.
 

corsair23

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Timm,

Did you find bushings? Not sure if these will work but I found the baggies of bushings I have. They are marked 289-40-C...Per SOR they are:

"40 Series S-O-R Poly Bushing-Black graphite impregnated polyurethane-Fits 1958-7/80 40 Series Con-Ferr Shackles, Performance Shackles (#288-80 & #288-81), & Extreme Shackles (#288-92 & #288-94)-Specifications: I.D.=5/8 inch, O.D.=1 inch, Flange=.195-A total of 24 bushings are required for entire vehicle-Sold each"

Looks like I have 16 of them...

If can't use 'em and someone else wants 'em let me know...You could make a small donation to the raffle rig fund :)
 

timmbuck2

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go for it, I already had stopped by RMC before he offered them to me. Thanks anyway Jeff!!

T
 

corsair23

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Jeff,

I could really use those. I am going to replace my shackles next weekend. What do you want for them?

Leif,

If you're sure they'll fit (looks to be all sorts of sizes on SORs page) any donation amount to the Raffle Rig will do :)

They are only a couple bucks a pc from SOR so whatever you feel is reasonable. You can pay me and I'll Paypal the $$ to RS for the raffle rig or you can do it directly yourself.

Let me know :thumb:
 

corsair23

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timmbuck2

RS Club TLCA Delegate
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OK, next leaf question. :) Got all 4 leafs from lfd270ben from his 40, thanks again BEN!! After some MUD research, I decided to go ahead and take them apart, wire wheel, prime and paint, then use some slip plate. Only issue are the leaf wraps. None of the threads on Mud really mentioned them, just said "dissesemble and paint'. 1 thread said to pry them off, then straighten, drill a hole, then put in a bolt. Has anyone done any of this to their wraps? It took a lot of muscle just to straighten 1 of the arms on each wrap, I can't imagine trying to completely straighten them all. Any ideas? They are looking awesome after cleaning and painting, should get the slip plate early next week. Thanks all!

Timm

ps-any local place I can get new pins? Might as well replace them while I am in there. What grease do you use when re-installing the bushings, leafs, etc?
 

timmbuck2

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hmmm....the leaf wraps are stamped "Made in Canada".....that can't be right for stock springs, can it??

T
 

corsair23

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ps-any local place I can get new pins? Might as well replace them while I am in there. What grease do you use when re-installing the bushings, leafs, etc?

I'm no help with the technical questions so bump back to the top for you. But on 40 parts (local) I always try Ron @ RMC first...He may even have the answers to your other questions as well :thumb:
 

Hulk

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I bought spring pins at Off-Road Ltd. They were the only local place I could find them.
14200 E Colfax
Aurora, CO 80011
(1 Block East of I-225 on Colfax)
303-367-9666
 

Rzeppa

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Urethane may hold up better, HTH.
Have now had many hundreds of thousands of miles with poly and with stock rubber, and my observation is that yes, poly lasts longer, but not by much. In my observation, geometry (does everything line up just right?) and stresses (stock versus lifted) seems to play a bigger role than material.

Some of these observations are totally A/B (same rig, same suspension, just poly versus rubber) and other observations are at the same time as suspension mods. I have not observed any difference whatsoever in plain poly with grease versus graphite-impregnated poly with grease, and haven't tried graphite impregnated poly without grease. I also haven't observed any noticeable premature degradation of stock rubber with grease versus without grease, as I have read about over the years, although I did try silicone grease instead of dino grease for a couple years on a set of stock rubbers, didn't seem to make a difference.

My recommendations:

(1) Replace the bushings when they seem worn out.

(2) Price being similar, I'd go with poly, but if rubber was handy they seem to work fine. Either are good for 30-100k miles, depending on useage, how far you are from stock, and alignment/fitment.

(3) I don't think poly is worth a significant price premium, and especially graphite-impregnated.

(4) Suspension work is such a large amount of work, particularly for leaf suspension, pay most attention to fitment and alignment.
 

Rzeppa

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Has anyone done any of this to their wraps? It took a lot of muscle just to straighten 1 of the arms on each wrap, I can't imagine trying to completely straighten them all. Any ideas?
Heat the right angle bend with an O-A torch (basic blacksmithing).

ps-any local place I can get new pins?
spring pins are available at most 4x4 shops and a lot of parts stores. Stock M8 is hard to find but 5/16 fits fine.

What grease do you use when re-installing the bushings, leafs, etc?
See my previous post; I now use dino MP after experimenting with silicone grease and seeing no observable benefits after many hundreds of thousands of miles.
 

timmbuck2

RS Club TLCA Delegate
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Denver
Heat the right angle bend with an O-A torch (basic blacksmithing).

spring pins are available at most 4x4 shops and a lot of parts stores. Stock M8 is hard to find but 5/16 fits fine.

See my previous post; I now use dino MP after experimenting with silicone grease and seeing no observable benefits after many hundreds of thousands of miles.

no welder or torch for me. (YET...)

Would a combo of my bench vise and a propane torch do any good? Any chance all that heat would damage the leafs themselves? I still have not received the slip plate, so no hurry yet. No engine anyway. :) But the mouse pooooop is gone!!
:beer: :D :hill: :beer:
 
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