Axle housing painting - what are people doing these days?

[Lastresort576]

I use that stuff on all sorts of things!! It's supposedly weldable without removing it to bare metal. It's infused with metal.

Are you laying down a primer before painting this stuff? I havent seen anything that says one way or the other. Im using it for a tire carrier to start, and maybe my sliders once i get those made.

 

[VoodooBlue_Vixen]

Are you laying down a primer before painting this stuff? I havent seen anything that says one way or the other. Im using it for a tire carrier to start, and maybe my sliders once i get those made.

Nope. Paint it on bare metal. I use alcohol or something to clean the surface, then just spray it on! I have a motorcycle I painted with it, used the silver & black. It's held up really well for a few years. One of these days I'll actually decide on a real paint scheme for that bike. But until then, the sheet metal is protected!

 

[Lastresort576]

Nope. Paint it on bare metal. I use alcohol or something to clean the surface, then just spray it on! I have a motorcycle I painted with it, used the silver & black. It's held up really well for a few years. One of these days I'll actually decide on a real paint scheme for that bike. But until then, the sheet metal is protected!

awesome, thats great to know. Thank you for the info. im looking forward to trying it out..just wish it was a little cheaper haha.

 

[HoneyBadger]

Steel It is just a very expensive paint that is ultimately no different that Rustolium when it comes to longevity and quality.
I've used it a lot in the past, for a short time. It became quickly apparent that it's not even remotely worth it for the price. It fades and chips just like any other cheap paint, it's just 3x the cost.

Also, these claims that you can weld through it are complete nonsense, if you want a correct and strong weld.
If you're going to weld something correctly, it needs to be free and clear of any and all contaminate potentials before starting the weld.
To what extent this paint is infused with metal, I honestly don't know. But in my experience, whether or not it has some kind of metal in it or not seems to have no bearing on it's longevity and overall quality. And it certainly does not make it "weldable". It's still paint. And when you heat up paint to the temperatures necessary to melt metal, it will burn. And when it burns it will infiltrate your weld bead and cause porous cavities in the weld.
Period, end of discussion.
There is no paint or applied coating of any kind that can be welded through with the expectation of having a strong quality weld. There just isn't.

If a very expensive paint, that will fade in a year's time, is what you're looking for... Then Steel It is what you want.
Just do yourself a favor, and don't try to weld through it.

Otherwise just go buy some Rustolium or something and save yourself the money. Your end result will be the same.

I don't mean to roll through here and burst everyone's Steel It Hype Bubble...
But ultimately it's all sales hype around a overpriced paint that doesn't deliver quality performance in the end.

 

[HoneyBadger]

Coat one on. I got a gallon of paint and a pint of the catalyst hardener. In a separate container, I mixed half of a gallon and half of the hardener catalyst. For this first coat on the axle two knuckles and steering arms I used less than a quart. If I do a second coat, I’ll need more than a quart so it’s good I got the gallon.

Instructions say the pot life after the catalyst is eight hours so I will be curious to see what my container of paint looks like tomorrow.

It says wait 24 hours to recoat.

Later, I will still have to go in with spray paint under the spring bucket buckets where a brush could not reach. Fortunately, I’m not at all worried about drips or runs.

The catalyst hardener is supposed to make it cure faster, cure tougher, and be glossier.

Nice!
That's going to look really good under the Long Cruiser.

But, you may have to repaint the rest of the truck now....

I am interested in learning more about this catalyst hardener stuff...

 

[Inukshuk]

Nice!
That's going to look really good under the Long Cruiser.
But, you may have to repaint the rest of the truck now....
I am interested in learning more about this catalyst hardener stuff...

It looks great. I painted Monday. I have kept the garage warm. paint still takes a fingernail impression. I did not try to brush it on thick but maybe I did. Lighter coats on the knuckles and arms seem harder. But those have been in a on gain/off again warm oven since Tuesday morning. Warm oven also makes a great flash rust.
Rustoleum on the new drive plates and old hubs does not take a fingernail impression or scrape.
Time will tell!

 

[Inukshuk]

Refurb axle is in. Old one was bent, driver side.

Took 1.5 days, only one of which was with no electric in the shop. Fortunately Jackson machined the panhard press tool day 1.

@jps8460 and @baileyfj40 are heroes!! It took a village. Honorable mentions to the wonderful riff-raff that stopped by @jps8460 shop: Chris Nelson (with beers and VW transaxle), John Ferguson (lights and sirens), Bill Burke (with sandwiches and cookies and Henry who only bit me a little - WTF Henry we are buds!), Henning and Sabrina Plesner (with donuts), and of course the one and only Megan Philby that supports all this chaos!

Only difference between a 91-92 and later housing is bracketry for the right side brake line to frame. We'll get that welded up this week. Meanwhile, vise grips.

 

[Capriblue45]

Daniel are any of these the brackets you need? On a 97 Chassis.

 

[Inukshuk]

Daniel are any of these the brackets you need? On a 97 Chassis.

Mike - thank you, no. Very thoughtful of you to write. The bracket at issue is welded to the structure supporting the right side spring perch.

It is visible in the very center of this photo you posted. You can see the hard line enter from left and hose exit right. I have this bracket. I have to fabricate its attachment to the axle housing. Meeting my welder this afternoon.