DaveInDenver
Rising Sun Ham Guru
Ever have questions? I bet you do, so here's a general place to discuss them.
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Automotive Connector Thread
- Thread starter DaveInDenver
- Start date
DaveInDenver
Rising Sun Ham Guru
Found these videos showing destructive testing of Anderson Powerpole interesting. Main take-away is that PP45 handled over 300A for a non-trivial amount of time and the wire (10 AWG) melted before the PP75 (so same terminal as SB50) was compromised.
The 3rd connector is a Deans Connector. This gent does I think RC helicopters, I assume anyway since that is I surmise a common one for RC batteries. An interesting observation is this shows why soldering is often avoided for reliability. If a wire does happen to heat up it's possible to reflow solder and have a connection come apart mechanically before the over current protection opens.
The 3rd connector is a Deans Connector. This gent does I think RC helicopters, I assume anyway since that is I surmise a common one for RC batteries. An interesting observation is this shows why soldering is often avoided for reliability. If a wire does happen to heat up it's possible to reflow solder and have a connection come apart mechanically before the over current protection opens.
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So I am about to embark on the journey of making a new harness for my new to me fj40. Since a lot of the connectors are pretty crusty and or damaged I plan on replacing just about everything. Is there a certain type of connector you think is best for just single wire connections? For instance it looks like a lot of the originals used were bullet connectors. Would you say stick with something similar or something of a newer design?
DaveInDenver
Rising Sun Ham Guru
@Pz10420, a couple of questions.
Are you worried about authenticity?
Do you want commonality with Toyota or maybe another manufacturer?
Are there budget targets?
If you must have authenticity then the red/blue/yellow terminals are pretty close. They are cheap, easy to do in the shop and field. They are OK on strain relief but have no positive retention (meaning they can in theory vibrate loose) and terrible on environmental tolerance. They are great for cost and to have a few in the trail spares box.
BTW, the standard red/yellow/blue terminals you see everywhere are known as F-crimp, Faston or more specifically with the Tyco (TE) version they are called the PIDG or Plasti-Grip connector.
For a simple FJ40 harness that isn't a restoration I'd skip them and use the current Toyota OE. For an FJ40 I'd use the sealed versions both inside and out.
You can get them aftermarket, I recommend Corsa Technic. The series you'd be looking for are most circuits is the
Yazaki 090II Sealed
www.corsa-technic.com
Sumitomo TS090 Sealed
www.corsa-technic.com
If this is interesting we can walk through how to pick them. You may also want connectors that are either larger or smaller. Toyota uses a smaller pin with tighter spacing for very low power circuits, like ECUs which should be a problem on an FJ40. There may be a few circuits that I aren't jumping to mind where a larger connector is required but a standard bolted-down ring terminal isn't right either.
Where the PIDG type excels is it is pretty much indifferent to the wire. It only needs to be the right range of gauge to crimp down. The insulation basically doesn't matter, the nylon or PVC shroud deforms around it so there's only a maximum size.
If you go to a more modern automotive type you have to pick them based on both the wire and insulation diameter. That's because the crimp has two sets of wings. One grabs the conductor and one grabs the insulation. Additionally, if you use a sealed there's a rubber grommet that has to fit on the outside of the wire as well as inside the body of the plastic connector. So you select them based on wire and insulation diameter range. It's not tough once you understand it but it may limit the places you can get wire. But since there's nowhere locally really to get bulk automotive wire anyway it really isn't a big deal.
If you want something more period correct to the 70s and early 80s some of them can be sourced. It's just my opinion that the hassle of trying to find them in the all the right genders and pin counts for every spot isn't worth the effort and you can't just roll into any Toyota dealer to grab a connector or pigtail. If you use the current types the harness may not look like original FJ40 but it will look like a Toyota and be easy to modify and repair.
Are you worried about authenticity?
Do you want commonality with Toyota or maybe another manufacturer?
Are there budget targets?
If you must have authenticity then the red/blue/yellow terminals are pretty close. They are cheap, easy to do in the shop and field. They are OK on strain relief but have no positive retention (meaning they can in theory vibrate loose) and terrible on environmental tolerance. They are great for cost and to have a few in the trail spares box.
BTW, the standard red/yellow/blue terminals you see everywhere are known as F-crimp, Faston or more specifically with the Tyco (TE) version they are called the PIDG or Plasti-Grip connector.
For a simple FJ40 harness that isn't a restoration I'd skip them and use the current Toyota OE. For an FJ40 I'd use the sealed versions both inside and out.
You can get them aftermarket, I recommend Corsa Technic. The series you'd be looking for are most circuits is the
Yazaki 090II Sealed
Yazaki 090II 2.3II Motorsport Connectors - Corsa Technic
Motorsport electrical products: OEM and hard to find terminals and connector kits, wiring, harness supplies, tooling, and sensors for modern and vintage motorcycle, automotive applications. Easy online shopping, low cost shipping options, to expedited around the world. We accept Paypal and...
www.corsa-technic.com
Sumitomo TS090 Sealed
Sumitomo TS 090 Sealed Motorsport Connectors - Corsa Technic
Motorsport electrical products: OEM and hard to find terminals and connector kits, wiring, harness supplies, tooling, and sensors for modern and vintage motorcycle, automotive applications. Easy online shopping, low cost shipping options, to expedited around the world. We accept Paypal and...
www.corsa-technic.com
If this is interesting we can walk through how to pick them. You may also want connectors that are either larger or smaller. Toyota uses a smaller pin with tighter spacing for very low power circuits, like ECUs which should be a problem on an FJ40. There may be a few circuits that I aren't jumping to mind where a larger connector is required but a standard bolted-down ring terminal isn't right either.
Where the PIDG type excels is it is pretty much indifferent to the wire. It only needs to be the right range of gauge to crimp down. The insulation basically doesn't matter, the nylon or PVC shroud deforms around it so there's only a maximum size.
If you go to a more modern automotive type you have to pick them based on both the wire and insulation diameter. That's because the crimp has two sets of wings. One grabs the conductor and one grabs the insulation. Additionally, if you use a sealed there's a rubber grommet that has to fit on the outside of the wire as well as inside the body of the plastic connector. So you select them based on wire and insulation diameter range. It's not tough once you understand it but it may limit the places you can get wire. But since there's nowhere locally really to get bulk automotive wire anyway it really isn't a big deal.
If you want something more period correct to the 70s and early 80s some of them can be sourced. It's just my opinion that the hassle of trying to find them in the all the right genders and pin counts for every spot isn't worth the effort and you can't just roll into any Toyota dealer to grab a connector or pigtail. If you use the current types the harness may not look like original FJ40 but it will look like a Toyota and be easy to modify and repair.
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Authenticity is of zero concern with this 40 and definitely budget friendly as there are way tooooo many unknowns with this rig that I just want to get get it running and driving first. Then I will decide if this 40 deserves a good rebuild or just enough work to make it a fun around town rig.
DaveInDenver
Rising Sun Ham Guru
Take a look at those Sumitomo and Yazaki, let me know if the prices seem reasonable. If they seem like it'll be too much the PIDG are OK and cheap. Invest in a good set of crimpers for them. Shouldn't be big money but just don't use those cheap Home Depot stripper/dimple crimpers.
I did forget to ask about the fuse blocks you're using. If they're stock with the flat tabs then you're kind of forced into using some version that mates with it. If you're using all new fuse blocks then you might have a choice or it might also direct you to a specific type.
I'd recommend a better connector on the chassis than the PIDG, though. Perhaps the Metripack or Weatherpack:
www.corsa-technic.com
I did forget to ask about the fuse blocks you're using. If they're stock with the flat tabs then you're kind of forced into using some version that mates with it. If you're using all new fuse blocks then you might have a choice or it might also direct you to a specific type.
I'd recommend a better connector on the chassis than the PIDG, though. Perhaps the Metripack or Weatherpack:
Delphi Packard Metri-Pack Motorsport Connectors - Corsa Technic
Motorsport electrical products: OEM and hard to find terminals and connector kits, wiring, harness supplies, tooling, and sensors for modern and vintage motorcycle, automotive applications. Easy online shopping, low cost shipping options, to expedited around the world. We accept Paypal and...
www.corsa-technic.com
nuclearlemon
Hard Core 4+
I use weather pack and deutsch connectors. mostly weatherpack because they're cheap and easy. do get the proper crimp tool and the removal tool so you can reuse the outer housings. makes life great and pretty waterproof
MileHigh80Guy
Rising Sun Member
@DaveInDenver You're being paged over at mud:
forum.ih8mud.com
FAQ - Engine Wiring Harness Information 8/1992-12/1994 FZJ80: 82121-60340/1/2
Happy that I was just able to purchase a low mile ( less than 30k miles ) OEM 94 year model harness that was installed just a few years back from another member. Mines not having any issues, so it just goes into my parts stash. And he had rapped it in heat shield where it passed by the PVC...
forum.ih8mud.com
