Answer to your question: Summit probably the best bet. They ship most stuff from Nevada and it's 2 days in route for ground service.
Extra stuff you already know, but I will say anyway:
Keep in mind that ARP studs do not have the necked down section that goes through the oil passage in the rocker girdle like Engnbldr's and Toyota's bolts have. With ARP you torque to 80 ft-lb and with OEM style you go to 60 ft-lbs. A set of Ted's bolts go for $25 and I ended up at about $50 for the set from Jerry.
You should call Ted and ask if his replacement studs are ready, he was trying get production of necked down studs, so a combination of ARP and OEM-style. Also you have to clearance the underside of your valve cover to clear the studs and I didn't feel like cutting the flame shield and grinding the valve cover. If you don't clearance the valve cover, it usually does not sit on the head right and leaks. Plus, the cover usually touches the studs, which makes the 22R-E sound even more like a sewing machine!
Ted recommended to me to use the bolts, less issues and guaranteed no issue with oil starvation of the exhaust rockers. I went back and forth with this and Ted's advice pushed back into the OEM camp. The only down side for me to bolts is the uniformity of torque isn't as high as with studs, but between the cover clearance and oil starvation, I simply didn't want to bother with it for a 9.0:1 compression engine. I mean, how necessary for a stockish 22R-E is that extra $100 worth of clamping force?