ARB single compressor issue and rebuild question.

[BritKLR]

I have a single ARB compressor that runs my front and rear lockers and I use to re-inflate my tires after a run.

The system is 20 years old and has always operated flawlessly…until at the end of 7 mile rim.

I was inflating my tires. Got two done then I heard it slow down and sound like it was seizing up and then stopped and blew the 40amp fuse.

Got home and just tested it with a new fuse and it runs really slow and labored without anything hooked up to it. I stopped it before it blew another fuse.

Anyone else ever have this problem? If so, what was the fix?

Anyone rebuild an ARB or just buy a new one?

Apparently mine is a first Gen and pre-2017 that has some sort of rod/pin issue.

Thanks!

 

[DaveInDenver]

Is yours the CKMA12?

Maybe this video will help visualize. It looks like there's a design oversight with the axle on which the piston rod rides. It looks like it can walk as the needle bearing wears and it looks like ARB addressed it at some point. Looks like you can get the parts to retrofit and rebuild it.

I don't have an ARB but from this video it looks like they're constructed like other portable compressors. I've disassembled and maintained mine a couple of times. It's not difficult, you should have no trouble. The hardest part of these is breaking loose thread locker you'll usually find on the crank and some of the critical bolts. They run hot and high speed, so thread locker is important to prevent them from unplanned rapid disassembly while airing up. In any case, even when it's just routine maintenance I'm always reminded how a bit of cleaning and fresh grease quiets and smooths them.

From your description I'd be worried the rod or piston are jamming up. I wouldn't try running it until I got eyes on it, it might still be cheapish and repairable. But if you crack a casting or burn up the motor then you might force the issue with an all new one.


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J7Mhju1pEag

 

[BritKLR]

Is yours the CKMA12?

Maybe this video will help visualize. It looks like there's a design oversight with the axle on which the piston rod rides. It looks like it can walk as the needle bearing wears and it looks like ARB addressed it at some point. Looks like you can get the parts to retrofit and rebuild it.

I don't have an ARB but from this video it looks like they're constructed like other portable compressors. I've disassembled and maintained mine a couple of times. It's not difficult, you should have no trouble. The hardest part of these is breaking loose thread locker you'll usually find on the crank and some of the critical bolts. They run hot and high speed, so thread locker is important to prevent them from unplanned rapid disassembly while airing up. In any case, even when it's just routine maintenance I'm always reminded how a bit of cleaning and fresh grease quiets and smooths them.

From your description I'd be worried the rod or piston are jamming up. I wouldn't try running it until I got eyes on it, it might still be cheapish and repairable. But if you crack a casting or burn up the motor then you might force the issue with an all new one.


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J7Mhju1pEag

Thanks!

 

[Romer]

Could also be an opportunity to upgrade to a dual ARB Compressor

 

[Rzeppa]

I rebuilt my Sear Craftsman shop air compressor multiple times, but the last time, when I used the soapy water trick to check for leaks I cracked the head

I now have a new compressor, but am using the old Craftsman tank to hold extra air.

 

[DouglasVB]

I did a partial rebuild on an ARB single compressor about ten years ago. The valve in the piston head was having issues and I was able to bend it back into place and yada yada. I vaguely remember adding some lubricating oil in there somewhere. It looked like every single part was replaceable when I opened it up.

Is there any melting on the wiring (especially the plug near the compressor)?

If you go through the accessories pages, it looks like they sell just about every single component individually: https://store.arbusa.com/air-systems/air-systems-accessories/

Were it me, I would attempt diagnosing and rebuilding before replacing it.

 

[BritKLR]

I did a partial rebuild on an ARB single compressor about ten years ago. The valve in the piston head was having issues and I was able to bend it back into place and yada yada. I vaguely remember adding some lubricating oil in there somewhere. It looked like every single part was replaceable when I opened it up.

Is there any melting on the wiring (especially the plug near the compressor)?

If you go through the accessories pages, it looks like they sell just about every single component individually: https://store.arbusa.com/air-systems/air-systems-accessories/

Were it me, I would attempt diagnosing and rebuilding before replacing it.

Very helpful.

Thanks!

 

[Crash]

The newer mid-level ARB compressor, for your needs as described, is a perfect replacement. Small form factor, about the same size as the old one, relatively quiet when compared to the dual ARB and it airs up 33s pretty quickly. Has a much better duty cycle than your current model, as well.

 

[BritKLR]

The newer mid-level ARB compressor, for your needs as described, is a perfect replacement. Small form factor, about the same size as the old one, relatively quiet when compared to the dual ARB and it airs up 33s pretty quickly. Has a much better duty cycle than your current model, as well.

Thanks!

I'll take a look at it.

I've used this one for so long that it's just second nature. Turn it on, clip it to the valve stem, 6 minutes per tire and done, long enough for some water, cigar and securing other gear.

 

[Crash]

Thanks!

I'll take a look at it.

I've used this one for so long that it's just second nature. Turn it on, clip it to the valve stem, 6 minutes per tire and done, long enough for some water, cigar and securing other gear.

I replaced the same model you have with the mid-model and it occupies the same space as the original and it’s much more effective for airing up tires. The original was stressed when airing up, imo.

 

[DaveInDenver]

A feller doesn't have to rely on Steve's impeccable intuition on this. ARB still sells both due to presumably price point projection plans.

The CKMA12 is a 50% duty cycle, 30 min on, 30 min rest compressor that can do 2.34CFM @ 29 psi that ARB sells for $360 now.

The CKBLA12 is 100% duty cycle that can do 3.10 CFM at 29 psi that ARB gets $560 for now.


The question I'd think at hand is what are you willing to spend, Paul? You could rebuild yours to the improved piston and rod bearing for $60.

This won't fix the duty cycle and flow characteristic differences but should solve your problem. If you have no real complaint with how it was working I know what I'd do, spend the $500 difference on brain cell killing liquids. But I'm weird. I mean, it probably could be diagnosed. I just repaired a $10 bell I use on my town bike instead of throwing it away.

ARB 320303 ARB Air Locker Replacement Parts | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - ARB Air Locker Replacement Parts with qualifying orders of $125. Shop Differential Carrier Replacement Parts at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

 

[BritKLR]

A feller doesn't have to rely on Steve's impeccable intuition on this. ARB still sells both due to presumably price point projection plans.

The CKMA12 is a 50% duty cycle, 30 min on, 30 min rest compressor that can do 2.34CFM @ 29 psi that ARB sells for $360 now.

The CKBLA12 is 100% duty cycle that can do 3.10 CFM at 29 psi that ARB gets $560 for now.


The question I'd think at hand is what are you willing to spend, Paul? You could rebuild yours to the improved piston and rod bearing for $60.

This won't fix the duty cycle and flow characteristic differences but should solve your problem. If you have no real complaint with how it was working I know what I'd do, spend the $500 difference on brain cell killing liquids.

ARB 320303 ARB Air Locker Replacement Parts | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - ARB Air Locker Replacement Parts with qualifying orders of $125. Shop Differential Carrier Replacement Parts at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

I'll drink to that technical, analytical suggestion!

 

[Crash]

Wow, I bought the CKBLA version for about the same price of the CKMA Dave lists a couple of years ago. I guess I shouldn’t be surprised. It requires use of the new harness too so installation labor time is increased too.

 

[BritKLR]

Yep….blown piston bearing.

Chewed itself up but nothing that can’t be cleaned up and a rebuild kit.

Thanks for all the help!

It takes a village to keep these land Cruisers going!

 

[BritKLR]

@BritKLR - FWIW, if you want the high speed, low drag grease for this what I'm trying in my compressor is Aeroshell 64.

AeroShell Grease 64 | Shell Global

Lithium complex grease formula with added 5% molybdenum disulphide for extreme pressure applications, effective from -73°C to +121°C. MIL-G-21164D.

www.shell.com

It's a 5% moly aircraft grease that's suitable for wheel bearings. It's also what Warn recommends as grease in their gearboxes. I bought a tube years ago, two winch rebuilds has barely made a dent in the amount left.

Also, the really hip ARFCOM guys think it's the best lube ever for broomsticks. Apparently Eugene Stoner met John Browning at a bar in San Antonio and they decided this based who had the smoothest dart release at 200, 300 and 500 meters.

Brilliant!

Thanks. Will get this ordered as well!

Everything helps the MPG on these bricks!