A few notes on 1st gen 4runner fuel storage options

[DouglasVB]

I've been thinking on potential ways to increase my fuel storage for long desert trips. Already I have a jerry can that I carry for five extra gallons but with getting about 10mpg off pavement, I need more capacity.

The options I have seen are:

• More jerry cans stored either in the cargo area or on a swing-out bumper. I've seen a few people stow them on roof racks but that's not what I want to do.
• Gas tank from one of several other vehicles mounted between the frame rails where the spare tire goes. Smallest is about 10 gallons and largest is about 40 gallons based on what I've seen online.
• Hang a second 4runner stock gas tank on the driver side, reroute the exhaust somewhere else. This is a bit challenging without doing a body lift and requires re-routing the fuel filler line for the added tank.
• Fuel cell in one of the previously mentioned locations.

Of importance to me is to make this a transfer tank rather than an auxiliary fuel tank. After emailing with Roger Brown about California Air Resources Board requirements, it's pretty clear to me that a transfer tank is the way to go.

For the upcoming Outlaws run, I'm going to use more gas cans and store them in the back of the truck. Long-term though, I don't want a bunch of fuel hanging out in the truck with me.

Hanging anything in the spare tire well runs the risk of it getting smashed when going off of a rock ledge. However, a sufficient skid plate would take care of the problem.

Rerouting the exhaust away from the left side of the truck would make it possible to have a second stock fuel tank. I'd go with a tank from a 1984 4runner so that I can use the carburetor fuel pump to transfer fuel from one tank to the other.

I think my plan is to figure out how to reroute the exhaust and put in a second stock fuel tank. In the future I might re-visit more fuel storage in the spare tire area, too...

 

[ToyodaTocco]

There is no a carburetor fuel pump in tank. They used manual fuel pumps mounted on the side of the 22r head. All you do is run a fuel line from the side of one tank to the side of the other tank (as close to the bottom as you can get) The levels will equalize out between the tanks.

 

[DouglasVB]

Oh interesting! I guess the photos online of new tanks for 1984 4runners aren't accurate. They had holes for fuel pumps which I assumed would be electric.

If I run a pipe between the two tanks without a pump and check valve, it can be more complicated for emissions as I understand it. I think there are some restrictions now on connecting tanks together directly, too.

 

[DaveInDenver]

Ford F150 tank between the rail in the spare location. Works on 3rd gen, so probably not hard to adapt to other mini trucks.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyota-truck-4runner/484247-who-used-ford-gas-tank-toyota.html

Scott Brady's solution on the old Expeditions West Tacoma using a Isuzu Trooper tank, also in the spare tire location.

http://www.expeditionswest.com/equipment/tacoma/fuel_tank.html

 

[DouglasVB]

I've also seen some examples of Chevy Suburban tanks in between the rear frame rails. They ran from about 20 gallons on up to 40 gallons.

 

[DouglasVB]

The one issue that makes me a little nervous is needing to cut out the existing crossmember and weld in new ones.

 

[DaveInDenver]

FWIW, one goal for Imelda was more fuel storage but that never happened. Two 20L fuel cans was my solution and I only actually needed them a couple of times.

Therefore my goal with the new truck will be to fit an approximately 10 to 15 gallon generic someplace and use it as a transfer tank. Most likely will be in the spare location since it won't require any rerouting of exhaust pipes.

But that assumes a swing out. This is something I will need since there's actually slightly less room for the spare on my Taco than there was on the '91, where a 33" tire fit without issue. On the Tacoma the 32" spare is the limit without reworking the brackets.

 

[DaveInDenver]

I can't see doing more than about 15 gallon capacity. That adds more than enough for anything I'd do and won't have as much downside.

One being that you want the fuel tank to be full or not, no driving around with a partially filled tank. Mostly I expect to leave it empty so the fuel doesn't go stale. I also want to be able to transfer the whole tank without overfilling the main one. So I know that at empty I really have 3 or so gallons left and I want a margin of 2x so that I don't end up with fuel blowing out the fill tube. So I'm really looking at 10 gallons.

Second the weight. Gasoline weighs about 6 lbs per gallon, so filling another 19 gallon tank is 114 lbs. Full that's a fair amount of weight, partially filled that's a significant mass potentially sloshing around.

Third, it would be slick if I could use one filler and transfer fuel back and forth but realistically it would be a second filler and snaking one in through the wheel well to the back is easier than trying to cut into the sheet metal to fit a stock one.

 

[DouglasVB]

It looks like we have the same thoughts on the issue.

One attractive thing about putting a second 4runner tank up front is that you don't have a bunch of weight hanging way out back on the truck. However, the exhaust issue is real.

Using a tank from another vehicle would ensure that the tank has baffles inside so you won't get any more sloshing problems than you do with your stock tank. Check out the options for the mid 80s Suburbans. There is a tank that is reasonably sized and about 20 gallons. It looks like a better fit than the Ford tanks.

If I do a spare tire well tank, then I will want the filler neck exiting at the rear of the vehicle. I've seen a few photos of people with the filler neck exiting at the bumper and it isn't super pretty. Looks like it would eventually be grabbed by my tires and chewed off or at the least would always be covered in mud.

What are your thoughts on the crossmember issue?

 

[DaveInDenver]

It wouldn't concern me to cut and remake the cross members behind the rear axle.

Actually on my Taco that would be a huge advantage because the weight of a rear bumper basically makes reinforcement of the frame a requirement. On the earlier trucks (pre-Tacoma and your 4Runner) the frame is already fully boxed so it's already reasonably strong and there's plenty of meat to work with. The decision is easier for me, removing the spare, adding bracing, a low profile tank and a skid plate is what I'll do. Suspension will only need the extra OME leaf and that's more than sufficient to handle it and a bumper.

For you, I dunno, hard to say. The weight isn't creating that big of a moment, it's not like you have a huge rear overhang. You already have a bumper and spare out there so another 60 lbs + a skid might not be too bad.

 

[DouglasVB]

Derailing this thread... I need to do something about my rear springs. When I'm loaded down to go camping, the springs are flat. I have the parts to do a 63" Chevy leaf spring swap (although I only have 3+1 springs). I am thinking I will need to put in either some extra coil springs or some air bags to help level the load.

 

[DaveInDenver]

In my mind 63" Chevy springs are the opposite direction you need to go for cargo capacity. That swap is all about flex and if you're adding weight more flexy springs isn't going to help the situation. The easiest thing is an add-a-leaf in your pack but that's going to be a negative for flex. So probably air bags?

 

[DouglasVB]

Yeah.... that's probably what I should do. Any thoughts on a good airbag? I see there are lots of not too expensive options on Amazon.

 

[Cheeseman]

If I remember right one of the aftermarket mfgrs had a larger tank that fit under the space where the spare tire would go. Then the spare hangs on the rear bumper. Don't remember the size of the tank though. Northwest offroad comes to mind but not sure if they still exist.

 

[DouglasVB]

Yeah that's the company but they sold the tank business to another company. From some posts on other forums, that other company appears to no longer stock tanks to fit in the spare tire well. They can make them on demand but they run about $1000.

 

[DaveInDenver]

NWOR is still around AFAIK. Their catalog has an aux tank that fits in the spare location.

I was thinking Downey used to carry a larger tank that fit in the stock location but they are definitely gone. I don't have their catalog anymore, I may have given that to Dean (and if not, he certainly has their catalog I'd guess).

 

[DaveInDenver]

BTW, Long Range is the tank manufacturer in Australia that makes all the monster ones for those guys.

https://longrangeautomotive.com.au

Such as this 129 liter (34 gallon) one for 2nd gen Tacoma. Interesting, I didn't know they made one for my truck...

 

[DouglasVB]

I think you're thinking of this company that used to make tanks in the USA: http://www.nwmp.com/index.php/fuel-tanks

Now this company does: http://www.sunsetmetalfab.net/

They do list a tank for 40 series land cruisers but nothing for any other Toyotas at this point.

 

[rover67]

I have a 38 gallon LRA tank in the 60 and its a nice tank. I like it. Cut a hole and welded a new mount for my v8 fuel pump but otherwise it's been working great and is big enough for most shenanigans. If I carry fuel in the truck I use the nice nato jerry cans and they seal well enough to just throw in there and not worry.

 

[DouglasVB]

Here are some potential rear tank options, for those interested:

• Ford F-150 - Early 80s through 90s (choose year based on if you want pickups for a mechanical pump or a high pressure in tank pump) had an option of a rear frame mounted tank.
  • Gallons: 19
  • Dimensions: 8.125" H x 34.75" L x 27" W
  • Available at Advance Auto
  • Filler exit: side
  • Additional thoughts: Lots of people use this tank for this purpose successfully.
• Chevy Suburban - Early 80s through 90s. Several tank sizes available.
  • Gallons: 25
    • Dimensions: 28-3/4 In. x 28-1/8 In. x 10-3/4 In
    • Available at Advance Auto - Home Delivery ONLY
    • Filler exit: Omni-directional (square tank)
  • Gallons: 31
    • Dimensions: 28-3/4 In. x 28-1/8 In. x 12-3/4 In.
    • Available at Advance Auto - Home Delivery ONLY
    • Filler exit: Omni-directional (square tank)
  • Gallons: 40
    • Dimensions: 35 In. x 28-3/4 In. x 13-1/8 In
    • Available at Advance Auto - Home Delivery ONLY
    • Filler exit: On the long dimension (side-ish?)
  • Additional thoughts: the Suburban tanks all seem to have their filler fittings exit at the top of the tank which will be an issue with putting the tank as far up in the frame rails as possible.
• Ford Bronco - the 80s through the 90s are all good for this
  • Gallons: 25.5
    • Dimensions: 31-7/8 In. x 22-1/4 In. x 12-3/4 In
    • Available at Advance Auto
    • Filler exit: Side
  • Gallons: 33
    • Dimensions: 31-7/8 In. x 22-1/4 In. x 15-3/4 In
    • Available at Advance Auto
    • Filler exit: Side
  • Additional thoughts: Side exit isn't super desirable unless I make a second fuel door setup.
• Isuzu Trooper - Mid 80s has the carbed version. Later is fuel injected. There was a design change in the early 90s.
  • Gallons: 22.5
  • Dimensions: Not sure... I can't find them online.
  • Available at junk yards but I haven't seen anyone selling one new.
  • Additional thoughts: parts for Isuzus are getting really hard to find according to my neighbor with a 2002 Trooper. Might not be the best bet because of that reason.

Lower profile tanks are obviously better than fat tanks. From my measurements, I have about 30" between the frame rails and the shackle bolts, and 24" front to back between the axle and the bumper. About 8" would be the right height to be nice and tucked out of the way between the frame rails.

The Ford tank looks the most appealing. I suspect the dimensions aren't exact from the Advance Auto page. I talked with the guys at the local Advance Auto today and they said they could bring a tank in for me to look at for free. I might take them up on that soon.