80 Series E-Brake Adjustment

[Telly]

With CM coming up fast, I thought I would post up a pdf with a good MUD write-up on how to adjust your e-brake. There is a test to verify your e-brake is holding properly at the CM vehicle inspection (see CM site for the specifics). I will be doing this procedure this weekend on the HDJ81. Refer to the FSM if you need additional info.

 

[Hulk]

What a serious PITA. If the e-brake requires this much precise adjustment, it's no wonder no one's ebrake works. At some point, I'm just going to upgrade the handbrake and call it a day.

 

[jps8460]

What a serious PITA. If the e-brake requires this much precise adjustment, it's no wonder no one's ebrake works. At some point, I'm just going to upgrade the handbrake and call it a day.

If your park brake is way out of wack, that is the process I would use. If it works decent, but could work better. I would do a star adjustment until there is firm contact and back off little by little until the rotor can be turned by hand audible drag is ok, but the rotor should turn free. That’s what I do, and just tweak it when I rotate tires. It adds about 10min to a tire rotation.

I also tell people that you don’t have to yank the park brake. Just gently pull on it until it’s set.

 

[Inukshuk]

I am happy to help anyone with park brake adjustment.

I have tried all that bellcrank nonsense. Makes no difference if your bellcrank is working. (Many in rust areas have seized bellcranks)

I loosen the adjusting nut, get the wheels off, and adjust the stars. Can also remove the calipers or just pull the pads to remove any rub. After a few times you can differentiate the rub of pads vs shoes.

I have installed "extended dogbones". The extended dog bones bring the fixed portion of the pad closer to the drum. That allows much more of the shoe to contact the drum. They work! I ordered a bunch for a better price. They were under $20 each. I have three sets here in Denver. Free to first come first served!

I have also seriously thought about the Superior Engineering kit. @Hulk if you order, lets get a few and share shipping from AU.

OTOH seems like this would be easy enough for us to design our own, use send-cut-send (or envision fabrication) and make a grip domestically! I would never suggest "copying" if it was domestically available. Maybe @nakman could become a domestic dealer - but I fear the product liability issue.

I also tell people that you don’t have to yank the park brake. Just gently pull on it until it’s set.

and this!
Procedure when parking:

1. Get your truck to settle and stay still in neutral with no brakes as best as possible. Flat area, valley, top of a hill, against a rock or ledge. Avoid on a hill if at all possible.
2. Gently pull the handle, clicking away till truck stays put. Sometimes it needs to roll a few inches to grab.
3. Then press the foot brake again and put into park.
4. Now you are resting against terrain, and parking brake is holding, and the parking pawl inside the transmission is redundant.

Ready to start again? Foot on brake. Gently press button as you gently pull up handle and it will softly release the park brake. Keep foot on brake. Shift into gear. All smooth, no clunks or lurches.

 

[Telly]

I like your description on how to set and release the e-brake. The reality of it is that I rarely set my brake and it's a habit I need to start doing, especially on the trails.

 

[Telly]

One of the things that is always a mystery is which way to spin the star adjustment nut...swing up or down. I always have to figure it out by trail and error. Most of the time that damn rotor is stuck on the shoes so yanking it off can be challenging to visually look at how the adjuster nut moves. I 'think' it's down to spin the nut clockwise to tighten? Never can remember...

 

[Lastresort576]

ive adjusted mine twice in the 10years ive owned it..and yup i need to again. thanks for the reminder. I might try the extended dog bones.