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Hey Guest:
Wed. April 1st is the next Rising Sun meeting, and you won't want to miss it. We're doing our annual offroad recovery equipment demonstration and trail skills training aka "Jack It Night" at Envision Fabrication. Meeting starts at 6:30 p.m. (early). All are invited to attend! Click for more information and location.
3VZ-E (3.0 V6) life cycle completed.
- Thread starter leiniesred
- Start date
J Kimmel
Hard Core 4+
if its the engine you ought to be able to get it done for well under that.
Red_Chili
Hard Core 4+
For $250 more you can get a fine running one. For $200 more than that you can get one with 175 psi compression and under 80K miles. No touchee, drop it in.
But a good deal if you need an auto tranny too!
Just how does he know the HG is blown? Not a common occurrence with a 5VZ. No, I do not believe I would trust anyone but myself to fix it, were it me (unless it was someone of Robbie's class, ATLR, etc.).
But a good deal if you need an auto tranny too!
Just how does he know the HG is blown? Not a common occurrence with a 5VZ. No, I do not believe I would trust anyone but myself to fix it, were it me (unless it was someone of Robbie's class, ATLR, etc.).
Red_Chili
Hard Core 4+
<shudder>
Yep, that's Spanky style! If I tried it no way would it work. For some reason it works for you generally. Dunno about this time... it will probably hang together. More or less.
I hate things that could leave me in the middle of nowhere, towing a popup, in the snow, or in the San Rafael Swell, or...
treerootCO
Rising Sun Member
- Joined
- Aug 22, 2005
- Messages
- 5,431
J Kimmel
Hard Core 4+
ooooo...now thats tempting. If it is what it says it is, you could swap the front end and most of your parts over with a little help in a weekend....
Red_Chili
Hard Core 4+
It's a 96+ frame/running gear ala Irbis. The only 86 part is the body. Doable but not a direct or easy swap.
leiniesred
Hard Core 4+
Made it back to my garage and got 1 bearing out.
Drove the truck to the house. It was 22 degrees.
Engine is fairly quiet when cold.
Got the pan loose and JKimmel stopped by. Working with help makes things much more fun. Thanks Jeremy.
We checked the rods by wiggling them to find the loosest one and noted the sizes on the rods. (#2) Marked the 5 and 6 caps and took off number 5.
The crank pin on the loosest conrod bearing (#5) looks fine.
The thrust bearing feels ok, and I can't lever the crank around either, so that's a good sign.
I don't have a caliper that goes to 10,000ths and my favorite micrometer is too wide to measure the curved bearing shells, but I used a cheap caliper and measured the shell thicknesses at
.053 (rod) and .055 (cap). #2s are supposed to be .0584-.0586. So I around .008 loose.
.0031 is the maximum clearance.
NAPA only seams to stock 1 size "standard" bearing and they can't tell me the shell thickness of the bearings they sell.
Toyota, your high-price leader, wants $18 for a single bearing pair and it'll take 3-4 days to get it (them) in. I'm going to try to find an online vendor with specs. If that doesn't work out, Jeremy suggested calling Gunn automotive on Monday.
Here is a cell phone picture of the rod bearings.
Drove the truck to the house. It was 22 degrees.
Engine is fairly quiet when cold.
Got the pan loose and JKimmel stopped by. Working with help makes things much more fun. Thanks Jeremy.
We checked the rods by wiggling them to find the loosest one and noted the sizes on the rods. (#2) Marked the 5 and 6 caps and took off number 5.
The crank pin on the loosest conrod bearing (#5) looks fine.
The thrust bearing feels ok, and I can't lever the crank around either, so that's a good sign.
I don't have a caliper that goes to 10,000ths and my favorite micrometer is too wide to measure the curved bearing shells, but I used a cheap caliper and measured the shell thicknesses at
.053 (rod) and .055 (cap). #2s are supposed to be .0584-.0586. So I around .008 loose.
.0031 is the maximum clearance.
NAPA only seams to stock 1 size "standard" bearing and they can't tell me the shell thickness of the bearings they sell.
Toyota, your high-price leader, wants $18 for a single bearing pair and it'll take 3-4 days to get it (them) in. I'm going to try to find an online vendor with specs. If that doesn't work out, Jeremy suggested calling Gunn automotive on Monday.
Here is a cell phone picture of the rod bearings.
Attachments
Red_Chili
Hard Core 4+
Huh. Hard to tell from a cell phone pic, but... they don't really look too bad.
You may squeeze 300K out of that beast yet.
You may squeeze 300K out of that beast yet.
Those are not the bad bearings Spanky! For giggles I would check #6. You will see signs of flaking on the one thats talking!
leiniesred
Hard Core 4+
Ben and Bill: Yeah, I expected to see one blackened rod cap from the one that got hot, but they all look the same. Indeed, these bearings, while visually thin, didn't spin and don't show any galling at all.
Maybe I caught it in time? Again, it didn't sound too bad in the cold this morning.
Maybe the Zinc in the STP (good enough for Richard Petty, good enough for me!) kept them from galling?
Maybe I'll find bearings double stacked on one of the "tight" rods?
Maybe it is all skirt slap or a loose wrist pin? Broken ring? (no way. Too loud on the bottom of the engine and too "deep" sounding It really sounds like rod knock.)
I think I might just take a chance on the aftermarket, single standard size bearings. Get me a set of Clevite 77s. (#2s are right in the middle of Toyota's standard sizes and that is probably where the aftermarket "standard" size bearings are anyway.) Once I have them in my hand and I find a ball tip micrometer (mine is an anvil tip), I can measure them and compare them to Toyota #2 specs. Install and plastigage them, and if they are in spec, do the next one. If I find them too loose with the "standard" size, I can then order some #3s at the Toyota garage to see if that tightens things up enough.
Maybe I caught it in time? Again, it didn't sound too bad in the cold this morning.
Maybe the Zinc in the STP (good enough for Richard Petty, good enough for me!) kept them from galling?
Maybe I'll find bearings double stacked on one of the "tight" rods?
Maybe it is all skirt slap or a loose wrist pin? Broken ring? (no way. Too loud on the bottom of the engine and too "deep" sounding It really sounds like rod knock.)
I think I might just take a chance on the aftermarket, single standard size bearings. Get me a set of Clevite 77s. (#2s are right in the middle of Toyota's standard sizes and that is probably where the aftermarket "standard" size bearings are anyway.) Once I have them in my hand and I find a ball tip micrometer (mine is an anvil tip), I can measure them and compare them to Toyota #2 specs. Install and plastigage them, and if they are in spec, do the next one. If I find them too loose with the "standard" size, I can then order some #3s at the Toyota garage to see if that tightens things up enough.
DaveInDenver
Rising Sun Ham Guru
Piston slap. You got another 50K before you gotta worry. My engine had a weird sound I could never track down for 6 years until the timing chain let loose. You worry too much. Put in thicker oil and go skiing tomorrow. Just don;t call too early, my head hurt already.
leiniesred
Hard Core 4+
NAPA standard bearings
Got under the truck today with my $28 NAPA "standard" size bearings.
Bearing info:
Altrom Group
6B8060 000
1000095
MADE IN JAPAN
The box brand is: TAIHO
Target bearing clearances: .024 - .053mm
2,3,4,5,6 were all about .040mm. all within spec.
Things went well until #1. The tale of the plastigauge tells me more than .051 mm. Bummer.
Toyota #3 standard bearings are .004mm thicker. That would tighten up my clearance to about .045mm and put me just about where the rest of the bearings are.
Looks like I need to order a couple of bearings from Toyota.
No truck in Moab for me on the 22nd I'm afraid.
Kevin: No one bearing looked tragic. There is very minor galling on the top #3 bearing. #3 also happens to have a score mark on the bottom bearing.
Geez, now I hope the noise is actually a rod bearing!
Tip for the next guy: If you do this on an old, well worn engine, you probably have room to go 1 size thicker on the bearing shell. All of my Toyota #2 bearings could have been replaced with Toyota #3 bearings and remained in spec.
Got under the truck today with my $28 NAPA "standard" size bearings.
Bearing info:
Altrom Group
6B8060 000
1000095
MADE IN JAPAN
The box brand is: TAIHO
Target bearing clearances: .024 - .053mm
2,3,4,5,6 were all about .040mm. all within spec.
Things went well until #1. The tale of the plastigauge tells me more than .051 mm. Bummer.
Toyota #3 standard bearings are .004mm thicker. That would tighten up my clearance to about .045mm and put me just about where the rest of the bearings are.
Looks like I need to order a couple of bearings from Toyota.
No truck in Moab for me on the 22nd I'm afraid.
Kevin: No one bearing looked tragic. There is very minor galling on the top #3 bearing. #3 also happens to have a score mark on the bottom bearing.
Geez, now I hope the noise is actually a rod bearing!
Tip for the next guy: If you do this on an old, well worn engine, you probably have room to go 1 size thicker on the bearing shell. All of my Toyota #2 bearings could have been replaced with Toyota #3 bearings and remained in spec.
Attachments
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J Kimmel
Hard Core 4+
were you able to slide the top ones out ok??
how long to order from Toyota?
WE CAN DO THIS!!!
how long to order from Toyota?
WE CAN DO THIS!!!
leiniesred
Hard Core 4+
Bearings.
Yep. Slipping in the top bearings isn't too hard.
Parts should be in at Toyota on Wednesday.
I might pull the crank girdle off and take a quick look.
None of the old bearings look bad enough or measure out thin enough to account for all that banging.
Yep. Slipping in the top bearings isn't too hard.
Parts should be in at Toyota on Wednesday.
I might pull the crank girdle off and take a quick look.
None of the old bearings look bad enough or measure out thin enough to account for all that banging.
leiniesred
Hard Core 4+
Put my engine back together yesterday. Hours and hours of cleaning parts.
Kevin was right. None of those bearings were bad. Finished the farm-boy rod bearing replacement. SAME NOISE! Dang. I should have done the mains too.
Wait a minute. What about these ol' idler pullys? Pull the belts off the front = no noise!
Start to put the AC belt back on and find 2 inches of belt chunked out!
Replace 2 belts with new spare belts. Start up. No noise.
All that downtime for nothing more than a belt!
Kevin was right. None of those bearings were bad. Finished the farm-boy rod bearing replacement. SAME NOISE! Dang. I should have done the mains too.
Wait a minute. What about these ol' idler pullys? Pull the belts off the front = no noise!
Start to put the AC belt back on and find 2 inches of belt chunked out!
Replace 2 belts with new spare belts. Start up. No noise.
All that downtime for nothing more than a belt!
LXBRADY
Hard Core 4+
rover67
Rising Sun Member
Holy smokes man!!!
Well hey, IT"S RUNNING AGAIN!!!!!
That's both frustrating as hell and super cool all at the same time. I'm glad you got it figured out. The bottom end looks great on that motor still And now it's kinda rebuilt!
I was at Elliot's house this weekend and he said he saw you feverishly working on the thing to "head to Moab tomorrow!" Glad you got it going again! See, it'll never die!
Well hey, IT"S RUNNING AGAIN!!!!!
That's both frustrating as hell and super cool all at the same time. I'm glad you got it figured out. The bottom end looks great on that motor still
And now it's kinda rebuilt!I was at Elliot's house this weekend and he said he saw you feverishly working on the thing to "head to Moab tomorrow!" Glad you got it going again! See, it'll never die!