100 Series ABS pump motor / Brake booster Q

[Inukshuk]

Who is this guy Paul? Ryan has mentioned him to me. Is he a full time mechanic?

 

[ry303]

Paul is 2001LC over on IH8Mud. I think he is semi-retired military who picked up working on LC's as a hobby and it has become his gig.
He works out of his home garage.
His master thread:

Master thread: Buying, PM & Advance Maintenance of 100 & 200 series.

I've been a Land Cruiser fan since 2001. I first found ih8mud in 2005. I've learned and still learning everyday from the many contributors of mud. Thank you all! First thing I learned is 100 series are tanks, that just keep going. But even tanks need maintaining. This thread is dedicated to...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Inukshuk]

Paul is 2001LC over on IH8Mud. I think he is semi-retired military who picked up working on LC's as a hobby and it has become his gig.
He works out of his home garage.
His master thread:

Master thread: Buying, PM & Advance Maintenance of 100 & 200 series.

I've been a Land Cruiser fan since 2001. I first found ih8mud in 2005. I've learned and still learning everyday from the many contributors of mud. Thank you all! First thing I learned is 100 series are tanks, that just keep going. But even tanks need maintaining. This thread is dedicated to...

forum.ih8mud.com

Ok, thx

 

[Stuckinthe80s]

I’m probably going to catch a lot of grief saying this, but this along with several other major “issues” with 100 series is why I probably wouldn’t buy one again if I had it to do all over. The things that fail on these trucks fail hard and are super expensive to repair/replace. Don’t get me wrong, I love my Hundy but it definitely has a few Achilles heels.

The booster had just been replaced by Mr. T right before I bought it and I’ve replaced the front diff with an ARB, and the throttle body was replaced last summer, so I guess I’m “done” for now? Oh wait, I just bought a steering rack to replace the leaking one that started failing right before Christmas.

I guess any 20+ year old vehicle is going to have problems but I've never owned one where anything other than the engine and/or tranny are so expensive to get fixed!

 

[AimCOTaco]

I do understand folks misgivings about aging 100's and the big issues that can pop. My thought is that you're not going back from this ledge so to speak by going to newer and newer stuff. The complexity and purpose designed into modern vehicles are a long way from what 40-60-80 series trucks were. I expect the 200's will have similar hard problems to sort as they age as they are more complex still with systems so integrated the aftermarket struggles to modify some of them. My current belief is that for our purposes you're either turning over trucks fast enough to keep them young OR you have to sit with one and go through all the 'Stuff' to keep them safe and crawling nearly forever.

The 100's are currently in the crux of this lifecycle... hard to trade up to a built 200 cost wise yet still expensive to restore.
I could go either way from here; build an 80, keep the 100, or start with a 200.

All that said I could see me holding the 100 long enough to end up with Wilwood brakes and an LS motor in the distant future... just fix whatever breaks with whatever is best fit at the time.

 

[Inukshuk]

I’m probably going to catch a lot of grief saying this, but this along with several other major “issues” with 100 series is why I probably wouldn’t buy one again if I had it to do all over. The things that fail on these trucks fail hard and are super expensive to repair/replace. Don’t get me wrong, I love my Hundy but it definitely has a few Achilles heels.

The booster had just been replaced by Mr. T right before I bought it and I’ve replaced the front diff with an ARB, and the throttle body was replaced last summer, so I guess I’m “done” for now? Oh wait, I just bought a steering rack to replace the leaking one that started failing right before Christmas.

I guess any 20+ year old vehicle is going to have problems but I've never owned one where anything other than the engine and/or tranny are so expensive to get fixed!

Bad steering rack? I'll give you $500 for the truck.

However, should you decide to keep the 100, I'd like in on the steering rack job. Mine has a minor weep and eventually I will R&R. There is a place here in Denver that rebuilds them.

 

[bassguyry]

I’m probably going to catch a lot of grief saying this, but this along with several other major “issues” with 100 series is why I probably wouldn’t buy one again if I had it to do all over. The things that fail on these trucks fail hard and are super expensive to repair/replace. Don’t get me wrong, I love my Hundy but it definitely has a few Achilles heels.

The booster had just been replaced by Mr. T right before I bought it and I’ve replaced the front diff with an ARB, and the throttle body was replaced last summer, so I guess I’m “done” for now? Oh wait, I just bought a steering rack to replace the leaking one that started failing right before Christmas.

I guess any 20+ year old vehicle is going to have problems but I've never owned one where anything other than the engine and/or tranny are so expensive to get fixed!

You're not wrong.

Believe me, there have been more than a few times where I was ready to throw in the towel with my 100 and just build out the 200 - replacing the ABS booster/MC assembly on my last 100 was nearly the straw that broke the camel's back. To this day, I still count the seconds every time the booster motor turns on... But, even if I get rid of the 100 and build out the 200, I figure I'll just be replacing old problems with new ones, once the 200 gets up there in age/mileage. Also, when I hear about guys doing complete rebuilds of motors on 80s and 60s, I don't get all that upset at the idea of replacing a steering rack on my truck (no, I'm not saying all 80 and 60 motors need full rebuilds, before I piss off those groups ).

At the end of the day, I'm wheeling the snot out of a 20-year old truck with nearly 300k miles on it. I'm like an addict, constantly chasing the dragon's tail, knowing full well that the truck will just die some day - but I'm gonna have a lot of fun with it until that day comes.

 

[AlpineAccess]

I've gone through a lot of the same thought process. Then I remember it still does everything it did when the original owner paid $75k for it (in today's money) and I feel better.

I've had several offers on my 100 and I always entertain them but can never find something I can replace it with for similar money without taking a bath. I priced out a 200 with higher miles that was around $30k and realized my registration was going to go up 5x every year and my initial purchase tax was going to be $2k+. That covers a lot of maintenance so I end up just keeping it.

 

[Shuksan]

I've gone through a lot of the same thought process. Then I remember it still does everything it did when the original owner paid $75k for it (in today's money) and I feel better.

I've had several offers on my 100 and I always entertain them but can never find something I can replace it with for similar money without taking a bath. I priced out a 200 with higher miles that was around $30k and realized my registration was going to go up 5x every year and my initial purchase tax was going to be $2k+. That covers a lot of maintenance so I end up just keeping it.

We all seem to go through the same thought process. Was just recently looking at 2013ish Tundra's and I could regear, add lockers, ... and still just buy a beater truck for other purposes. So the 100 wins again

 

[ry303]

Wow! I couldn't agree more with you guys about the 100's and maintenance and thinking about buying something different at times. Especially after doing this and finding my steering rack is leaking too... sigh.
But on with the update and some pics.
I did this on Saturday, in the driveway while it was mostly sunny out. (Thanks for the offers of garages but since I didn't know how long this would take I didn't want to inconvenience anyone out of their garage!!)
The write up over on Mud is great. Getting it out and then back in is the hardest part because of the brake lines and their limited movement. And I'll just add that this MC is heavy!! Damn!
I replaced the grommets from the reservoir as I think mine were leaking a bit. I also followed Paul's advice and used Toyota brake fluid even though it is 2x the price.
All in all it took me about 6 hours start to finish, including lunch and interruptions.

Out, upside down and pump off. My wire contacts were clean!

Old pump on left, rebuild on right.

Underside of accumulator. You can see how clogged the channel was. I think this supports Paul's theory on overfilling. It took me a bit to clean it all out!!

I opened the old motor to see the commutators. They were there, worn for sure, but there. But the whole unit was full of crap! I don't know how the motor was even able to spin. Thats just a bit of the crap that came out. I didn't want the rest to come out so I closed it up! Again, I think this supports Paul's theory of overfilling the brake fluid. It looks like it seeped into the motor and mixed with the carbon dust of the brushes, making a lot of this gunk!

Well worth the $250 for a rebuilt motor and $40 for brake fluid.
I haven't had any error codes and the brakes feel great. The pedal feels softer/easier to push and the braking power is noticeably greater than before.

Thanks everyone for your insight and help! Any 100 guys needing more info just let me know! I'm sure I'm forgetting something here!

 

[AlpineAccess]

Wow! I couldn't agree more with you guys about the 100's and maintenance and thinking about buying something different at times. Especially after doing this and finding my steering rack is leaking too... sigh.
But on with the update and some pics.
I did this on Saturday, in the driveway while it was mostly sunny out. (Thanks for the offers of garages but since I didn't know how long this would take I didn't want to inconvenience anyone out of their garage!!)
The write up over on Mud is great. Getting it out and then back in is the hardest part because of the brake lines and their limited movement. And I'll just add that this MC is heavy!! Damn!
I replaced the grommets from the reservoir as I think mine were leaking a bit. I also followed Paul's advice and used Toyota brake fluid even though it is 2x the price.
All in all it took me about 6 hours start to finish, including lunch and interruptions.

Out, upside down and pump off. My wire contacts were clean!
View attachment 91594

Old pump on left, rebuild on right.

View attachment 91595

Underside of accumulator. You can see how clogged the channel was. I think this supports Paul's theory on overfilling. It took me a bit to clean it all out!!
View attachment 91596

I opened the old motor to see the commutators. They were there, worn for sure, but there. But the whole unit was full of crap! I don't know how the motor was even able to spin. Thats just a bit of the crap that came out. I didn't want the rest to come out so I closed it up! Again, I think this supports Paul's theory of overfilling the brake fluid. It looks like it seeped into the motor and mixed with the carbon dust of the brushes, making a lot of this gunk!
View attachment 91597

Well worth the $250 for a rebuilt motor and $40 for brake fluid.
I haven't had any error codes and the brakes feel great. The pedal feels softer/easier to push and the braking power is noticeably greater than before.

Thanks everyone for your insight and help! Any 100 guys needing more info just let me know! I'm sure I'm forgetting something here!

Great information, thanks for posting! May need to take you up on this at some point. What is the plan with your accumulator motor? Going to get it rebuilt?