Need help finding a TRD s/c rebuild kit (1FZFE)

[mosdefjeff]

I need to repair a leaking nose drive seal and I'm having a hell of a time finding any repair kits that specifically state they're used on the LC80 TRD superchargers.

Will any M90 snout rebuild kit work? I know the snout was specific to the 1FZ-FE, but it seems like the bearings and couplers are all the same.

I've yet to reach out to Magnuson or any other supercharger service companies. Trying to avoid a $1k rebuild service for a leaky seal.

Upgraded Supercharger Nose Snout Rebuild Repair Bearing kit fits Eaton M90 GTP | eBay

SKF Precision Bearing (Front Snout Bearing). SKF Precision Bearing (Rear Snout Bearing). (GM: 12345982, Ford: ESE-M99C115-A). Upgraded Oil Filled Nylon Coupler.

www.ebay.com

 

[mosdefjeff]

Found it.

Upgraded Supercharger Snout Rebuild Kit fitsTRD 4.0L V6 1GRFE TRD FJ | eBay

SKF Precision Bearing (Front Snout Bearing). SKF Precision Bearing (Rear Snout Bearing). TRD 4.0L M90 Gen 5. (GM: 12345982, Ford: ESE-M99C115-A). This coupler is. Good You Tube Video's How to Rebuild.

ebay.us

 

[Hulk]

This was the place I used to rebuild my SC back in 2011 or thereabouts.

Contact us for supercharger rebuild services

The High Speed Lab supercharger shop (314)970-2323 Complete supercharger rebuild service, supercharger repair service, supercharger rotor assembly kit.

thehighspeedlab.com

 

[mosdefjeff]

I just have some oil on the surfaces around the pulley/airbox/valve cover that’s been blowing around that area a while, so to my eye it’s just the snout seal. I’ve read the m90 is pretty bullet proof and generally doesn’t need a lot of work at low boost. Was it just mileage that prompted your rebuild?

Should I find a way to check for boost pressure to be sure it’s ok? It isn’t a bad leak from the snout (see pic), but I do see some seeping at the 90

This whole truck is new to me and the drivetrain will go into my 80. Slee rebuilt the engine about 35k ago and it’s good to go, just making a list to tie up loose ends.

 

[MonPetiteShoe]

If it makes you feel better, I believe my oil cap weeps more oil than that (Maybe I should check my PCV). It doesn't appear to be a redflag for a rebuild. It's tough finding a rebuild kit as TRD/Magnuson designed them to be maintenance free. The '95-'97 MP90 SC has a different form factor than the FJ Cruiser kit... I'm not sure what changed between the generations and if parts are interchangeable. (e.g. I don't know if the ebay kit you linked will cure your ails because I don't know the dimensions of the seal/bearing from one generation to the next.) I'm sure the two kits have been around long enough, someone on Mud has followed that rabbit hole. There's also a pretty high probability that the kit shares similar dimensions. (If it ain't broke, don't re-engineer it. ~Toyota, probably.)

You could pull that 90 and get eyes on. There's always going to be some amount of oil within the intake. Sometimes the air/oil vapor collects and creeps past the silicone. If it's pooling, then you might want to start climbing the troubleshooting tree.

I'd probably run it for a while, but that's just me. I'm not the ideal example for running engines with perfect health. I'd trust a slee rebuilt engine. In order to rebuild anything past the top end, they'd have to pull (and inspect) the SC before reinstalling it.

Just my $0.02.

 

[mosdefjeff]

You should see the engine this is replacing. I don’t think I’ve changed my oil in 2 years. I just feed it to the valve stem seals and I think the engine just sweats the rest of it out. It’ll get resealed once I pull it!

I did get a P0401 code for the EGR that I cleared, which might be contributing to the seeping. I’ll dive into that when it’s out, too.

As for the snout, I believe it’s just the external dimensions that differ between the 1GRFE and the 1FZFE and the bearings/seals are identical. The kit was only $75 shipped and they told me it was correct, so I’ll follow up here once I have it taken apart.

I believe this was one of the last engines they rebuilt. I had requested mine to be rebuilt shortly after this one (I purchased the S/C’d truck from a good friend), but since the heads are NLA, they got out of the rebuild game. Sounds like a cracked head or two weren’t noticed and it came back to bite them.

Thanks for the information!

 

[Hulk]

Was it just mileage that prompted your rebuild?

Exactly. I bought it used and then put a bunch of miles on it. When we were doing the engine rebuild on my 1FZ, I figured it would be a good idea to service the SC at the same time.

 

[MonPetiteShoe]

You should see the engine this is replacing. I don’t think I’ve changed my oil in 2 years. I just feed it to the valve stem seals and I think the engine just sweats the rest of it out. It’ll get resealed once I pull it!

I did get a P0401 code for the EGR that I cleared, which might be contributing to the seeping. I’ll dive into that when it’s out, too.

As for the snout, I believe it’s just the external dimensions that differ between the 1GRFE and the 1FZFE and the bearings/seals are identical. The kit was only $75 shipped and they told me it was correct, so I’ll follow up here once I have it taken apart.

I believe this was one of the last engines they rebuilt. I had requested mine to be rebuilt shortly after this one (I purchased the S/C’d truck from a good friend), but since the heads are NLA, they got out of the rebuild game. Sounds like a cracked head or two weren’t noticed and it came back to bite them.

Thanks for the information!

I'm glad I'm not the only one leaning on Toyota's overbuilt tolerances. Sometimes you just gotta burn a qt every 500 miles.

Good luck on the rebuild/swap, sounds like a solid "while you're in there." Keep the thread alive!

 

[mosdefjeff]

Will do! I received the kit yesterday and everything looks good. I’ll dive into it in the next couple of weeks and post info here.