2001LC on Mud seems to think that a lot of these failures are due to not pumping the brakes 25 times before topping up the brake fluid reservoir. Failure to do this causes people (often dealer techs) to overfill their reservoirs. The results in the fluid spilling out of the reservoir. He explained to me that the fluid is hygroscopic. This is a fancy term for absorbing moisture from the surrounding air. The moisture against the parts then leads to rust, contaminants and eventual failure of the motor.
The accumulator holds a lot of fluid and releases back into the reservoir - if someone just tops the reservoir up without clearing the accumulator (extremely common) the reservoir overflows when the accumulator balances fluid
The accumulator holds a lot of fluid and releases back into the reservoir - if someone just tops the reservoir up without clearing the accumulator (extremely common) the reservoir overflows when the accumulator balances fluid
On another note, I swapped out my trans fluid today. I was able to formulate a fancy funnel to swap my ATF fluid without having to drop my transmission pan!
Cleaned up my donor arms a bit, going to Ricardo's shop tomorrow to press out the two bushings that were being stubborn using the bottle jack method. Nylon cup wire wheel and some foaming degreaser were absolutely perfect for this job. Took care of all that grime way quicker than just trying to polish with shop rags alone would have done >< Debating now on wire wheeling and painting them which will take me a bit. Never really rattle canned anything in my life so this is probably a great project to learn on, especially considering my truck isn't on stands waiting for them. Did a little research yesterday andi think I got the right stuff? The rust reformer is basically a primer right? Do I need to use mineral spirits before to get a good surface to put this stuff on?
Cleaned up my donor arms a bit, going to Ricardo's shop tomorrow to press out the two bushings that were being stubborn using the bottle jack method. Nylon cup wire wheel and some foaming degreaser were absolutely perfect for this job. Took care of all that grime way quicker than just trying to polish with shop rags alone would have done >< Debating now on wire wheeling and painting them which will take me a bit. Never really rattle canned anything in my life so this is probably a great project to learn on, especially considering my truck isn't on stands waiting for them. Did a little research yesterday andi think I got the right stuff? The rust reformer is basically a primer right? Do I need to use mineral spirits before to get a good surface to put this stuff on?View attachment 113122View attachment 113123View attachment 113124
You can use SPI 710 or DX330 as a final wipe, or just somer rubbing alcohol to remove any leftover residue or grease. TBH though, since you didn't go all the way down to steel, I'd scuff the surface with a light sanding paper & just hit it with the enamel.
Thanks to Ricardo for the press time, got the other bushings out. Took the wire wheel and brush to them to get all the scale off and scuff the OEM paint. That paint is super tough stuff, only came off where there was rust. Next step is to degrease them and put a few coats of enamel on them.
Added some spacers to install my original old school Hella 4000 on the ARB and adapted some Chevy k2500 recovery hooks ($10 from pick and pull) onto the front of the 60. They're mounted to the frame where the ARB is mounted and under where the OEM hooks are normally mounted. They're rated at 8000 lbs with the grade 8 bolts rated at 27,000 lbs shear strength. I like how low profile they are and should reduce the likelihood of a strap from coming off during s pull and are rounded so they will work nicely with soft shackles.
new bumpers on the GX this weekend. 6 hours on Saturday night for the front, 12 hours yesterday on the rear. I still need to hook up all the lights, and figure out how to live without a rear exhaust hanger and likely just delete the resonator. But for today it's back at the high school parking lot. my body hurts.
new bumpers on the GX this weekend. 6 hours on Saturday night for the front, 12 hours yesterday on the rear. I still need to hook up all the lights, and figure out how to live without a rear exhaust hanger and likely just delete the resonator. But for today it's back at the high school parking lot. my body hurts.
new bumpers on the GX this weekend. 6 hours on Saturday night for the front, 12 hours yesterday on the rear. I still need to hook up all the lights, and figure out how to live without a rear exhaust hanger and likely just delete the resonator. But for today it's back at the high school parking lot. my body hurts.
new bumpers on the GX this weekend. 6 hours on Saturday night for the front, 12 hours yesterday on the rear. I still need to hook up all the lights, and figure out how to live without a rear exhaust hanger and likely just delete the resonator. But for today it's back at the high school parking lot. my body hurts.
Well got the arms cleaned up and a light coat of the rust reformer (did have a few drips trying to figure it out but not to bad I don't think). Hammock stand in my sunroom patio ftw. Keep it ventilated but out of the weather. Only problem is with the weather it looks like I'm going to have to wait maybe two days between coats. At least they are donor arms so I have time
Drat, just realized that rust reformer is not a primer even though it says creates a paintable surface >< There's actually the rusty surface primer that would have been better for this lol. Should I just primer on top of this and move on or try and strip it off?
Drat, just realized that rust reformer is not a primer even though it says creates a paintable surface >< There's actually the rusty surface primer that would have been better for this lol. Should I just primer on top of this and move on or try and strip it off?
Even better apparently it ONLY sticks to rust from what I'm reading....Probably going to have to strip it all off lol. Well I said this would be a good project to learn on and learning I am >< Going to call rust oleum tomorrow and confirm how to proceed.
Yup called Rustoleum and I used the wrong product. Rust Reformer won't stick to anything but actual rust. The guy said I should be able to strip it off the control arms easily with the wire cup so I get to take that stuff off today and buy the rust metal primer (or maybe just the regular primer since all the rust was probably already converted). Learning, yay!
Yup called Rustoleum and I used the wrong product. Rust Reformer won't stick to anything but actual rust. The guy said I should be able to strip it off the control arms easily with the wire cup so I get to take that stuff off today and buy the rust metal primer (or maybe just the regular primer since all the rust was probably already converted). Learning, yay!