What have you done to your rig today?

KC Masterpiece

Hard Core 4+
Joined
May 4, 2019
Messages
1,319
I always used red locktite on the spidertrax I had on the fj cruiser. Never had any issue breaking them loose the few times I needed to. I think generally spacers are safe and all of the horror stories are due to poor install. Even with the locktite I still checked torque anytime a wheel was off.

I bought a 24v electric impact a while back after using my father in laws and it has been a game changer. Red locktite does not stand a chance.
 

DaveInDenver

Rising Sun Ham Guru
Joined
Jun 8, 2006
Messages
13,037
Location
Grand Junction
Even with the locktite I still checked torque anytime a wheel was off.
There's no reason to do a full torque check, not to mention it can be self defeating.

If the thread lock is still working your torque measurement won't be right. The fastener torque will read high with the threads locked even if fastener isn't at full torque value.

Or alternatively if the thread lock is failing you will just break it completely.

You can hit then lightly to make sure it hasn't come completely loose if you're worried or the "right" way is after torquing a critical fastener is mark it to watch for movement. You'll see some of the bolts Toyota does that from the factory, the ones with the white line on them. Sharpie has metallic silver pens that work for this or what I typically use are paint pens, both you can get at Office Depot.

sharpie.jpgpaintpen.jpg
 
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FunkyYota

Rising Sun Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2019
Messages
304
Location
Evergreen
Wonder if somthing like tha is causing my occasional CDL delay engaging. Always works once things warm up
Definitely could be. I think a common solder joint failure is kinda like a wiring issue. Oftentimes intermittent.

Shot in the dark - I’m kinda wondering if maybe there’s some old grease or something maybe that changes viscosity when warmed.
 

IoN6

Rising Sun Member
Joined
Sep 2, 2019
Messages
716
Location
Arvada
Replaced the motor mounts and went to the nail salon. o_O

No idea why people disconnect so much to jack the engine up 4+ inches or cut the bolts on the mounts. 4 hours, with a break for lunch and a fair amount of cleaning before reassembly. Additional 4 bolts per side and just a touch of elevation. 🤷‍♂️

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KC Masterpiece

Hard Core 4+
Joined
May 4, 2019
Messages
1,319

Inukshuk

Rising Sun Member
Joined
Aug 24, 2005
Messages
7,283
Location
Denver, CO

IoN6

Rising Sun Member
Joined
Sep 2, 2019
Messages
716
Location
Arvada
Awesome. This is on my to do list.

I have on my list to check mine.

More than happy to lend a hand when the time comes.

Highlight of order of operations:
  • Run a strap from both sides of the frame under the control arms, I used the lower hole in the shock towers, just give it a click or two
  • Started on drivers side front because it looked the most difficult
  • I would remove the ground strap right above the bracket that bolts to the block, I ended up removing it for reassembly
  • Remove the trans cooler line bracket 10mm and 14mm bolts (IIRC)
  • Jigger up some cribbing and just lift a little
  • Remove the lower nut on the mount
  • Jack up the front so it just lifts off the frame mount
  • Remove the 4 bolts to the block, may need to lift a little more/less but it should come right out with some wiggling
  • Goes back together the same way, I did not tighten the nuts for the insulator until I got the bracket bolted back up and had 90+% of the weight on the engine
  • Passenger side, while easier to access was actually the more difficult had to separate the insulator from the bracket and wiggle the shit out of them with some additional elevation on the engine to get it out
  • Same reassembly
  • Trans mount is straight forward, support tcase or trans, drop the cross member, remove 4 bolts, reassemble

None of mine were completely separated, so not sure if it is going to solve my random clunk. Quick trip down the cul-de-sac felt smoother, but will have to get more seat time to verify.
 

TacoDane

Rising Sun Member
Joined
Jan 14, 2016
Messages
423
Location
Arvada
Finally got to installing my Diode Dynamics Fog lights on the Tacoma. Only took a year as these were a Christmas present last year. It feels nice that these are approved unlike the cheap Amazon ones they're replacing.
 

fyffer

Rising Sun Member
Joined
Sep 22, 2019
Messages
457
Location
Trinidad, CO
Adding a little Gas to the Rig in preparation for this year’s planned events. Should help with Cooking, Ambiance and Heat inside tent. Refilling one or two propane bottles as needed. Much thanks goes to my friend fabricator and welder. Brian aka PhatFJ on the forum.
 

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On the RX

Rising Sun Member
Joined
Nov 19, 2016
Messages
1,887
Location
Superior
I finished flushing and cleaning the screen of my ps pump. It still whines the same. I'm guessing the 193k on the pump are to blame. It's not loud but it is enough to grind my gears. I am still debating if I am going to replace it now or wait till the fall. There are other items I would rather spend the money on and I don't believe that a whining pump will ruin the rack. Is my assumption wrong? Feel free to drag me across the coals!
 

cbranch

Rock Stacker
Joined
Oct 16, 2020
Messages
39
Location
Aurora
Had an interesting occurrence. the fan speed control for the blower motor on the '00 LX "failed". The fan speed will only turn off or go to low. The motor, fan, and resistor all function perfectly.

I swapped the entire center dash climate control system from my 98LC to the LX, and everything works perfectly. Funny enough, when I put the "malfunctioning" LX piece into my LC, everything functions normally, including the fan speeds. Not quite sure if I'll troubleshoot further as i don't think i care enough about the mismatching grain lol

Here's the LX piece that only works in the LC:
s-l500.jpg

and the LC piece that works in both the LX and LC:
84010-60172-A.jpg


I'm not very mechanically or electrically inclined so maybe there's a simple explanation for it, but I found it pretty wild
 

Johnny Utah

Rising Sun Member
Joined
Mar 6, 2015
Messages
1,097
Location
Arvada
Finally got around to installing the lower control arm/torsion bar support bracket. Overall a fairly simple job. I just spent some time on MUD making sure I was prepared for removal of the torsion bars. Glad it’s done so I can hit some sweet jumps!
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damon

Vice Commander
Cruise Moab Committee
Joined
Nov 28, 2018
Messages
1,125
Location
Arvada, CO
Working on getting my drawer project finished up
 

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SteveH

Hard Core 4+
Joined
Aug 10, 2006
Messages
2,914
Location
Colo Springs
I finished flushing and cleaning the screen of my ps pump. It still whines the same. I'm guessing the 193k on the pump are to blame. It's not loud but it is enough to grind my gears. I am still debating if I am going to replace it now or wait till the fall. There are other items I would rather spend the money on and I don't believe that a whining pump will ruin the rack. Is my assumption wrong? Feel free to drag me across the coals!

@On the RX - If this is for your 4Runner, I installed a Chinese pump ($75) in 2018, and it was quite for a month, then got a bit loud, and I just ignored it, and it's going strong (years later) and actually seems quiet. I have almost 40K miles on it. It came with a pulley and reservoir, ready to bolt on. It has enough boost (even on cold days).

It was this one (more or less - some Chinese thing):

 

gungriffin

Rising Sun Member
Joined
Dec 4, 2017
Messages
1,031
Location
Denver
Had an interesting occurrence. the fan speed control for the blower motor on the '00 LX "failed". The fan speed will only turn off or go to low. The motor, fan, and resistor all function perfectly.

I swapped the entire center dash climate control system from my 98LC to the LX, and everything works perfectly. Funny enough, when I put the "malfunctioning" LX piece into my LC, everything functions normally, including the fan speeds. Not quite sure if I'll troubleshoot further as i don't think i care enough about the mismatching grain lol

Here's the LX piece that only works in the LC:
View attachment 101317
and the LC piece that works in both the LX and LC:
View attachment 101318

I'm not very mechanically or electrically inclined so maybe there's a simple explanation for it, but I found it pretty wild

It was very easy for me to remove the dark wood trim on those with a hairdryer and some patience. The good news is the plastic underneath looked good because it had been covered up so long.
 

KC Masterpiece

Hard Core 4+
Joined
May 4, 2019
Messages
1,319
Cleaned the pickup engine bay in preparation for a tune up here soon.

I did find 3 spots of rust that will need addressing this summer.
 

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damon

Vice Commander
Cruise Moab Committee
Joined
Nov 28, 2018
Messages
1,125
Location
Arvada, CO
All done, except for the wings, and bolting her down so she doesn’t fly all around the hatch area.
 

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RayRay27

Cruise Moab Committee
Cruise Moab Committee
Joined
Jun 26, 2015
Messages
1,471
Location
Thornton via Boulder
I replaced my driver side interior door handle on Sunday. Super easy job to do if you have taken the interior door trim off before. Several months back I replaced the window run seal, the vapor barrier and greased the window motor components but as soon as I got the door all put back together the spring on the interior door handle broke. It doesn't affect the operation or the function of the door handle to open the door its just that the handle doesn't pull back flush against the door. It just stays out until you manually push it back against the door. Not a real big deal but it started to bug me.

So again I had to pull the interior door cover off and remove the interior handle which is about a 10 minute job if that. Pulled the two connecting rods off and attached to the new OEM handle that I bought from our friends Delta VS up in Idaho. Only thing I noticed when I compared my original handle to the new OEM one is that the lock button doesn't say "LOCK" on it like the original. So I am a little bummed about that.

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