Space restrictions is the best answer as to why any longer and I would have hit my steering box or the coil spring, putting it in front of or behind of the axle would have interfered with steering linkage or oil pan. When it comes to geometry if you understand that following a simple ratio of length vs angle and keeping the ratio true for both at ride height then bump steer will be minimal as long as the panhard bar is fairly close to parallel to the axle. So if the panhard bar and drag linkage are same length then you want them to be parallel or degree ratio of 1:1. If the drag linkage is say 60"and the panhard bar is 40" then you have 4:6 or of course simplified 2:3, so if the panhard bar is at 10 degrees then the drag linkage should be at 15 degrees. Again if the drag linkage is 50"and the panhard bar is 25" then your 1:2 ratio, thus a 5 degrees at panhard = 10 degrees at drag linkage. That will keep the curve of travel as linear as possible through the suspension cycle. One exception to the rule would be if your panhard bar was half the length like mine and parallel to the ground you wanna put a little positive degree to the drag linkage.
The Build of "porkchop"
- Thread starter cruiserbrandon
- Start date
Space restrictions is the best answer as to why any longer and I would have hit my steering box or the coil spring, putting it in front of or behind of the axle would have interfered with steering linkage or oil pan. When it comes to geometry if you understand that following a simple ratio of length vs angle and keeping the ratio true for both at ride height then bump steer will be minimal as long as the panhard bar is fairly close to parallel to the axle. So if the panhard bar and drag linkage are same length then you want them to be parallel or degree ratio of 1:1. If the drag linkage is say 60"and the panhard bar is 40" then you have 4:6 or of course simplified 2:3, so if the panhard bar is at 10 degrees then the drag linkage should be at 15 degrees. Again if the drag linkage is 50"and the panhard bar is 25" then your 1:2 ratio, thus a 5 degrees at panhard = 10 degrees at drag linkage. That will keep the curve of travel as linear as possible through the suspension cycle. One exception to the rule would be if your panhard bar was half the length like mine and parallel to the ground you wanna put a little positive degree to the drag linkage.
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2015
- Messages
- 29
I love the work you've been doing on your 60 series. Any chance you know how to work on an 80 series? I have a replacement engine I was looking to rebuild or pay to have someone rebuild it. I live in Pueblo West. Thanks!
I actually just installed a 1fz in an 80 series a couple months ago, know them pretty well actually, kinda the big brother to the 2jz so there's lots of potential for power upgrades via forced induction and such. As for an actual rebuild it's just not cost effective to rebuild them when there are so many reman options out there. The one I installed was from Napa and I was quite impressed. Give Chris or Joey a call at Napa and see what a reman cost. I believe they offer a 3 year 100k mileage warranty.
I guess I should have asked what's wrong with yours?
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2015
- Messages
- 29
Nothing is wrong with it besides it being old and tired. It has 220k on it now and I just wanted to have a back up engine ready for when this one goes.
Any idea what a reman would cost? I have no clue on prices for these things. I picked up a used engine with a blown head gasket for $200. I felt like that was a pretty good deal.
If I got a reman engine what would it cost to have something like that installed?
Sorry for all of the questions. I appreciate your help with it.
-Joe
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Any idea what a reman would cost? I have no clue on prices for these things. I picked up a used engine with a blown head gasket for $200. I felt like that was a pretty good deal.
If I got a reman engine what would it cost to have something like that installed?
Sorry for all of the questions. I appreciate your help with it.
-Joe
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
A reman engine is not gonna be cheap so it would have to be something you wanna keep for a long time. I believe $3200 is what my customer paid for his and I traded a little work and some parts probably $1500 after all said and done for labor. Those are notorious for blowing head gaskets and when they do it usually warps the block.