Tacoma Confessions

[Caribou Sandstorm]

Dave, what could I/should I do with a brand new 2017 Taco? Should I attempt to coat the frame with some kind of anti rust spray?

Woodsman, who lives in Indiana, says he has a Lanolin based spray that he needs to apply to his FJC..

Have you researched or thought "if I ever get another Taco, I would coat the frame first with...."

 

[DaveInDenver]

I coat everything underneath on my trucks with Fluid Film each fall. Takes about half a gallon to get everything with two coats. The water beads really well for about 3 or so months, so I do it late October-ish and it usually lasts the bulk of mag chloride season. I wash gently, but frequently. Letting it run until it's clear. Fluid Film is basically just lanolin and oil and leaves a kind of not quite wet, not quite dry surface after about a week. If the weather is warm and dry after applying it, you will get a tacky film with dust in it.

To clean up the rust I knock off the flaky stuff, sand or Scotchbrite and then treat with phosphoric acid. I'll let the phosphoric acid sit overnight before cleaning with acetone, prime and paint.

I coated the insides of the boxed sections, which on the 2nd gen is from about mid-cab under the front doors up to the front bumper. The frame is open from there all the way to the back bumper. I used that pale green Eastwood internal coating stuff, 2 cans per side. It's a kind of gooey phenolic but eventually cures to be completely dry. Before spraying that stuff I wash the heck out of the insides to get out as many rocks and squirrels as I can, but I've never had a brand new truck so it glues in a few rocks under the coating.

So far for spot treating and with the '91 the little bit I had got coated with etching primer and flat black Rustoleum (which seems to absorb the Fluid Film). This year I got a pint and some spray cans of Eastwood Rust Encapsulator since I'll be doing both frame rails outsides, the front under the engine and up under the spare tire on the Tacoma this spring. Since I'll be bolting sliders on I'm concerned with dirt working its way in and abrading the paint.

The rust on my Taco starts in the welds mostly, so it's a little difficult to really keep after it. I'm mostly just trying to keep it from spreading much.

 

[Caribou Sandstorm]

You guys are helping with my lean toward the 200 (it's all just theory for me right now my junk all still works and $ is tight). My 2001 1st gen taco does not compare favorably quality wise when compared to a 1990 mini truck with twice the mileage. I can say that the frame on my 2001 Taco while OK and not going to fail in time for a warranty replacement has a lot more surface corrosion on it than the frame under my 100. I'm the second owner of the Taco (purchased 2004, 30kmi) and it was sold by our favorite dealer to a local. The 1990 had 200kmi and we were probably like the 5th owner (so it was beat but had better rubber, fabric, frame, etc). My 1999 100 has 225kmi, I'm at least the 3rd owner and it started out in Michigan so it should have the ugliest frame of the 3 but the Taco is currently looking a little worse at 125kmi (newest, lowest mileage, fewest owners, all Colorado, best maintained of the 3). So yeah, lets hope Gen 3 Taco is better in the frame rot department. Oh, and also Landcruiser!

Andy here is one man's comparison with his new 2016 Taco vs his '08 200 series.. And dave there is a mention about undercarriage spraying. I am definitely going to research that more. Nice 200 in these photos also.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...r-my-impressions-so-far.417366/#post-11857705

Hi all, new to this forum but active on many other auto and enthusiast forums. I recently sold my 2008 Toyota Land Cruiser as I no longer needed the 8 passenger seating and I got tired of hauling firewood and hay in the back of it.

So, I traveled from TN to VA and found a 2016 Tacoma double cab, TRD OR with auto, roof rack, aluminum side steps and mud guards. Ironically its the same color, though the Tacoma's grey is darker (could be the LC's grey has faded some over the years or just a different shade)

While searching I told the dealers I didnt care about color as long as it wasnt Pastel, pink, Rainbow dash or something like that, just worked out that way I guess, anyhow I really love the color with the black interior (The LC has grey)

My impressions...

Engine / Trans / OR features

The Tacoma's engine is decent for a V6, I do miss the power of the 5.7 V8 coupled with fulltime 4wd, however I do not miss the mid/low teen fuel economy and 250 mile fillups. My fuel economy with the Tacoma has steadily improved from 17mpg to 20mpg average now that I am at 1000 miles. The transmission shifts smoother than the LC and the sport mode is more responsive (though I rarely use it). The V6 engine idles smooth and isnt very course, pulls well to redline and shifts well. The LC V8 also pulls well but is not as smooth over 5000 rpms.

So CRAWL, ATRAC, Center Diff Loc (no rear locker -weird for US Spec) - I used the heck out of it in my LandCruiser. Did a lot of offroading in Idaho + several trips to Moab with it. The 08 has the 3 speed crawl and compared to the new 5 speed one in the Tacoma its a dinosaur. It worked great, it was just insanely loud and more aggressive with the brakes compared to the Tacomas (which is still relatively loud) - basically its more herky-jerky. Low range, 4h all seem comparable but the Tacoma's approach and breakovers are much better. I havent gotten to really work out the Tacoma yet, but I definitely will - I feel confident in its abilities based on 2nd gen reviews.

Ride/Ergo

So yeah, the LC is like driving your couch. Comfy and quiet, soft, supple 8 way power seats, but the stock suspension on the LC is very soft. Even with KDSS it rolls heavily in any type of hard corners (like onramps). (even when stock)

The driveshafts in the LC clunk a lot when stopping or accelerating from a stop as well (known complaint) and the brakes in the LC are terrible. - it really should have gotten Tundra rotors. Pulling 8K with it even with brake controller was an exercise in swaying and pre-planned braking. The bushings squeak a lot and the windshield / wiper flutter will drive you insane at 80mph. The 3rd row seats in the LC shake, rattle and roll, pretty common in the 100's and 200's. The factory step bars in the LC are a joke, they flex and bend even when my 12 year old steps up on them so if you get an LC, get sliders asap. The rear receiver pin holes are too far back and its a PITA to remove the pin when stowing the draw bar.

The new entune is so much ahead of the NAV in the LC. Bluetooth music, ap suite, etc are leaps and bounds above the 1st gen 200 series. The rearview camera in the Tacoma is much clearer than the LC but that could be due to a higher quality screen vs the older LC.

Reliablity -
To early to tell on the Tacoma but so far been no issues. No trans hunting, weird wind noises or anything. Did fluid film on the undercarriage this week in case Toyota hasnt fully gotten a handle on the rust issue (though I believe it was fixed in 11 or 12)

LC - nearly 150K miles, many of them offroad. Cracked top of radiator (its plastic), leaking water pump replaced under warranty, driveshaft replaced under warranty. Besides that it was just oil changes/fluids, coolant at 100K, plugs at 120K. - 3 sets of tires, 2 complete brake changes. Everything worked and besides the rear seat rattle the interior fit and finish was tight and rattle free like new.

So here she is, so far I am thrilled and cant believe how awesome the aftermarket is for the Tacoma! - cant wait to get some mods going - well did a 1.5" seat rise, but thats all so far.

Good bye old faithful

2.5" OME lift, 33" Duratracs

 

[DaveInDenver]

Dang, from a 100 series to a Tacoma. I'd love to have that 100! Wonder what possessed him.

 

[Caribou Sandstorm]

Dang, from a 100 series to a Tacoma. I'd love to have that 100! Wonder what possessed him.

You mean 200 series to Tacoma, crazier than me..

 

[DaveInDenver]

Yeah, the Tacoma is like two evolutionary steps back from the 200. That 200 didn't need much either, pretty sweet. There's a lot I like about my Tacoma, the stick shift, lack of dashboard crap. I think the only thing I wished Toyota would have done is retained the manual shift t-case. So in that sense the new Tacoma is less attractive. But eventually I'll come across a FJC transfer case and I'll make it more to my taste. But for now it'll have be what it is since I've run out of discretionary budget for it. Unless I sell the KLR. Maybe.

 

[AimCOTaco]

That is a good comparison above. I should add that despite my rant about Tacoma quality concerns, mine has been perfect in the reliability department and with some care will have a long and very cost effective life.

 

[Caribou Sandstorm]

I'm not sure yet on tires and wheels. I have a set of the Bronze TRD wheels and may go full retro with them and a matching graphic. Christo will do bumpers, lift etc.

Looks like the Toyo tire I am running on the 100, Toyo Open country AT II, comes in a 285/75/17 which is a 33.9 x11.3 wide.

That is almost a 34" tire.. Pretty cool. If a 33.9 will fit, I am going in this direction for sure. Time to start stock piling some wheels...

 

[DaveInDenver]

Looks like the Toyo tire I am running on the 100, Toyo Open country AT II, comes in a 285/75/17 which is a 33.9 x11.3 wide.

That is almost a 34" tire.. Pretty cool. If a 33.9 will fit, I am going in this direction for sure. Time to start stock piling some wheels...

It's a very tight fit with 33" and taller tires on the Tacoma unless you do a 6" lift (bracket types). You generally have to cut the flares and cut the body mount (called cab mount chop - e.g. CMC). There is some variance depending on the actual tire and wheels you use, but for me I'm doing FOX 2.5" front coil overs and OME Dakar leaf springs for about 2.5" of lift and expect to run 265/70R16 or 275/70R16 on stock rims, depending on what I can find. Fitting a 31" or 32" tire is generally not much trouble with 3" or less lifts.

Biggest 17 inch tire with 3 inch lift

This is what 285/70R17 looks like, which is 0.5" shorter than the 285/75 you're considering.

He's already done the cab mount shaving, which is to cut the two mounts right behind the front wheel and weld in little fill plates. He's still rubbing a little, but it will generally be only at full lock on a left turn. It also depends on whether you're using stock or aftermarket upper arms. The ones that correct the steering will be slightly worse than stock because they build in positive caster and push the wheel back a little in the wheel well.

Here's what it will look like after you cut the mount but before you weld in the plates. This is pretty much mandatory if you intend to run 33" tires. This along with flattening the pinch weld in the inner fender. The pinch weld flattening has been the case with IFS mini trucks since 1986 and remains true up to the 2015, so I would expect the 3rd gen not to be any different.

Here's the pinch weld flattened & trimmed and the cab mount cut. You really should flatten the pinch weld for any tire over 32" otherwise you risk slicing the tires at full stuff. With 31" you can get away with leaving everything intact. He's also removed the plastic flare and trimmed the metal of the fender to give his tires a bit more clearance.

Although most of this is only speculation since the 3rd gen is still a mystery, so you can only study the 1st and 2nd gen for clues until you get an actual truck up on stands and cycle the suspension. But I doubt it's going to any great leap from the previous 30 years of IFS mini truck and Taco experience.

 

[MountainGoat]

Good lord that's a lot of work to run a tire that isn't even 33". I run 32" tires on my stock 3rd gen 4Runner with no rubbing!

 

[DaveInDenver]

The 285/70, 285/75, 33" is the dividing line, just a lot of variables with tires, wheels, lifts. But from what I can tell the main difference is whether you actually 'wheel your truck or not. If you do, you need to work through the interferences to get there. You'll see bunches of "no problems here" on Tacoma World and they are people with obvious street wheeling trucks that never stuff the tires up under the fenders.

 

[MountainGoat]

I guess technically mine are slightly under 32", 31.7" and they are skinny - LT235/85R16. Still, I've wheeled it up Twin Cone and over Yankee Hill and Radical Hill with nary a rub. I just checked the specs and the 285/70R17 is a true 33" tire, at least in a Duratrac. I was thinking they were 32.7".

 

[Caribou Sandstorm]

Thanks for checking Dan!

Need some desert time soon. Last year was a bust for me..

 

[waggoner5]

I am going to go 265/75/16 for now. Roughly a 32, will fill up the fender well but not rub with the stock suspension.

 

[Caribou Sandstorm]

This specific build/image is what originally started me thinking about a Tacoma version of this kind of set up. Also one year on the Kokopelli, a group of Canadians had a nice Taco built up..

Carlton's set up also nailed it, as well. I miss having the VW camper-stop anywhere mentality.

I am not sure the tire size on this Brute but my mod mind's eye is thinking the 17" TRD rim with a 33.9" tall and 11.3 wide Toyo would have a similar profile.. Going to come down to measuring. One thing I could do is first swap tires from 100 to taco and see if they fit. They are 33.4 and 11.6 wide.

 

[Caribou Sandstorm]

 

[DaveInDenver]

Is that a Tacoma? Dual exhaust must be a new thing. The TRD exhaust for the Tundra looks like that, so maybe they brought it over.

 

[Caribou Sandstorm]

Is that a Tacoma? Dual exhaust must be a new thing. The TRD exhaust for the Tundra looks like that, so maybe they brought it over.

Yep, I bet that is helping get the mpg they wanted to improve.

 

[DaveInDenver]

Yep, I bet that is helping get the mpg they wanted to improve.

I don't think it's a standard exhaust, pretty sure it's the up sell TRD add on or maybe even just the TRD Pro.

 

[waggoner5]

My truck is a TRD sport and has single exhaust so its not stock for any current Tacoma. That's a Tundra anyway