Safari Turbo Destruction/Rebuild

subzali

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And then I did a compression test. All plugs out, accelerator to the floor, about 5 cranks each. 150-160 psi, so feeling pretty good about that unless someone says something. Cylinders 2, 3, and 4 has a little streaking on the exhaust valves, so don't know if that corresponds to the compression readings at all. Going to get a leakdown tester and do that next, hopefully tonight.

IMG_2260-Cyl1.JPG

IMG_2261-Cyl2.JPG

IMG_2262-Cyl3.JPG

IMG_2263-Cyl4.JPG

IMG_2264-Cyl5.JPG

IMG_2265-Cyl6.JPG
 

powderpig

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cylinder 1 picture, that shiny clean spot, how was the cylinder wall? That looks like oil pulling from below the ring, the piston is so clean.
 

powderpig

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I see the low is like 146 and high is 160. New/Rebuild is like 175, rebuild is like 142. Typical no more than 10% from high to low. So, less than 16 Psi from high to low. You have 14 PSI, So, you are close to rebuild time. Will not be too many miles more, before that happens.
Anyhow, It is important to take a look at the cylinder wall where you see shiny areas and or what looks wet when the rest of the piston to cylinder wall interface is dry. These wet areas are oil being pulled up from past the rings. I have done lots of the looks after compression tests for the last 10 years. Even with acceptable compression reading, I have found Oil being pulled up beyond the piston rings. So I do compression tests and looking with the Bore scope any more.
 

subzali

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This is about the best I could do with the bore scope, all cylinder 1 here. The last set of images is with the right angle fitting, which doesn't work too well. I got a terrible video as well which I can try to attach. It looks like cross hatching is ok though?

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rover67

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Seems pretty good if you ask me... correct for altitude (5k') and you are at around 170psi.....

Right?
 

subzali

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Leakdown results: 73 psi source pressure
Cyl 1
68/53 exhaust

Cyl 2
68/53 exhaust

Cyl 3
69/62 exhaust

Cyl 4
68/53 exhaust

Cyl 5
66/50 exhaust

Cyl 6
69/61 exhaust

so the exhaust valves are certainly leaking. Didn’t hear anything on the intake or crankcase. Around 23-25% loss which from what I have read is ok-ish. Not great but ok. But did I frag my valves? Thoughts?
 
Last edited:

SteveH

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I'd be sure the exh. valves are properly adjusted and drive it for a bit before tearing into it.
 

subzali

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Measured Valves:

intakes-spec is 5-10
1a 9
1b 8
2a 10
2b 10
3a 10
3b 10
4a 10
4b 10
5a 8
5b 10
6a 7
6b 8

exhausts-spec is 10-15
1a 9 - only one out of spec-slightly too tight
1b 11
2a 12
2b 13
3a 13
3b 12
4a 12
4b 13
5a 13
5b 13
6a 11
6b 12

Gunn machined my manifold so the turbo mounting surface is flat (crack went through area so had some weld to get cleaned up)

have a box with a shiny new turbo inside. Have my gaskets and stuff, just about ready to go back together. Here’s hoping it fits.
 

subzali

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Looked up the compression spec. Warm engine it’s supposed to be 171, minimum 128, with no more than 14 different between cylinders. Maybe I will have to recheck compression sometime after I get it all back together and can get it warm.
 

subzali

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Pictures are fun
57mm turbo
FA73957B-285F-4E90-B5F6-3F5E462D236F.jpeg
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4E15DE05-9D73-43AB-A627-2EDC275EB190.jpeg

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ABDD9E8F-B5FC-46EE-8E9F-BCAB23D072FA.jpeg
541B0617-6B11-4729-9134-5F3C3EC86F7C.jpeg
 

subzali

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Old CHRA
C657AB44-098D-413D-AF54-996BEB0C539C.jpeg
6689EF1B-AB64-44B3-9EF9-FBB221B0508C.jpeg
 

60wag

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So is the new one much different than the old one? -other than having all of the vanes intact.
 

subzali

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The new compressor was installed in my original housing with slight machining required. Apparently the compressor housing is really unique. The 57mm compressor was close to what I had.

the turbine was similar to a stage 5 turbine so that’s what they used. The housing was .82 AR with a T3 inlet flange, a Ford 5-bolt outlet, and an internal wastegate, which was unique but they were able to replicate with a 2-piece assembly. It sits slightly closer to the manifold and slightly forward of the old outlet location, which hopefully will not interfere with anything and I can make work with a couple tweaks to the exhaust connection and the heat shields.
 

subzali

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37277817-63F4-463E-9559-C22EEB035E22.jpeg
 

subzali

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So close, but not.

I mentioned earlier that the new turbine housing is slightly closer to the block and slightly higher up. Well it’s too close to the block. The actuator is hitting the oil cooler, hard. The only way I can think to fix is to find a “skinny” actuator or find a different turbine housing that is spaced out further from the block. Or perhaps the turbo glide manifold from Australia sticks further out away from the block. Going to ask ATP turbo, but right now I’m pretty stuck.
 

rover67

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Any way to mount the waste gate differently with like an extended rod or something?
 

Corbet

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or have a spacer machined?
 

RicardoJM

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How difficult is it to fabricate a skinnier actuator?

OR

Can you block off the standard oil cooler and then add a remote oil cooler in a different location?
 

subzali

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Any way to mount the waste gate differently with like an extended rod or something?
At first I thought no, but then I am looking and see that they have actuators with offset rods that might work.

or have a spacer machined?
To space the actuator away from the engine, the manifold would have to be spaced away from the head. Don't think that's gonna work.

How difficult is it to fabricate a skinnier actuator?

OR

Can you block off the standard oil cooler and then add a remote oil cooler in a different location?
Considering they are standard components from Garrett and not really fabricated, my only hope is that they happen to make one that's skinnier. I really really don't want to do a remote oil cooler. I would rather spend another grand on a Turboglide manifold (if it would work) than mess with Mr. T's system.

I'm liking the offset rod option...but will see what ATP says.
 
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