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nakman's 60 build

MDH33

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Rad! Nice work Tim, looks clean. Going to have to pull my sliders off now. That looks just right.
 

nakman

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thanks guys! I'm diggin it, in the daylight it's a little on the light side but as soon as the sun goes behind a cloud it's the exact color I was aiming for... kind of fun.

Today I switched gears and made something out of plastic for a change. Main decision criteria being something that is fast & easy to work with, non-conductive, and I already had it laying around. So this old fairing piece seemed to fit that perfectly.

IMG_2733.jpg


I have the same Blue Sea ACR switch in the GX, also used the same one in the 100 series, they are pretty tried and true at this point. The little 50 amp circuit breaker is for a future power run to the back cargo area, provides a quick & easy way to kill that when needed, and also some protection if something gets pinched or something. That short lead is basically jumpered to the lead coming from the 2nd battery, sharing the same terminal.

IMG_2734.jpg


Looks like Auto Zone bought the Die Hard brand... I went in there expecting to pick up a second "Autocraft" AGM and instead walked out with a Die Hard Platinum.. I am sure it is the same thing. Took me a while to wrap the loom around all the cables, but in general it came out alright I think. I'm tempted to do it again though with longer cables, we'll see if it bugs me too much. the better move would be to bury it all inside the fenders, behind the carb fan, behind all the hinges, behind the washer tank.. but dangit that stuff took forever to bolt up again, just couldn't bear to undo it all today as it seems like it's getting darker/colder faster than ever now.

I definitely need to get a longer battery cable to connect the second battery to the switch, for now it's going up and over my coolant overflow which is probably not the best form... we'll be ok though for a while, I'm probably low on coolant anyway so not a lot of action happening in the tank.

IMG_2735.jpg


Here you can see the plastic panel in action..

IMG_2737.jpg


The good stuff is inside the cab though. I ran wires into the bottom of the Tuffy console and installed a switch bezel in there. I've got a lead coming from battery #1 to one of the volt meter/charging ports, and a lead from battery #2 going to the other charging port, both fused obviously. Next to them is the Blue Sea remote switch... Matt at Off Grid Engineering makes a plug & play harness for these, which takes a lot of the guesswork out of the wiring. So now I've got visibility to both battery voltages, and can foricibly combine or disconnect them, or just let them do their thing.
IMG_2738.jpg



Plus I can charge my phone from whichever battery has the most juice at the time.

IMG_2739.jpg


That panel has 7 slots to it... I am leaving switches in the outside ones to hopefully one day power seat heaters- my Saab seats appear to have heaters wired, I just need to figure out which ones to power up. I'll probably put a light in the Tuffy console also, may as well as I have a bunch of power running there now. I'm also thinking of switching the negative side of those volt meters, so they're not on all the time.. but for tonight I just wired it up as I wanted to see some numbers. So I've got a dual battery system now.
 

MDH33

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Dang, envious of all that space under the hood with the smog stuff gone! Great electrical upgrades. (y)
 

FJCDan

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Looks great Tim
 

nakman

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Ok another day down... sliders installed this morning, roof rack installed this afternoon.

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I've also discovered an electrical issue that I haven't yet resolved, though I think I've traced at least part of it to the new fuse block that I put in. But the issue is twofold. For one, I measure about a 1.0v voltage drop comparing the voltage going into the fuse block and the voltage going out of the fuse block- this is just poking around the fuse block with the multi meter. I took out each fuse indifvidually hoping to measure a jump in voltage on the remaining circuits, but no. But I am seeing 12.9 on the battery, and more like 12.0 on the stuff coming off the fuse panel. Not sure how the fuse panel would do that, isn't it just a stamped piece of sheet metal?

The other oddity is this really erradic voltage, it'll drop so low while driving that the radio will turn off (like 11.0) but then a few minutes later will be up to 13.1 nice and happy. I can watch this on the dash gauge, also with the new digital gauges, I have tried multiple gauges also and they all show the same. So this seems like a bad alternator to me.

I need a break so am going to let it sit tonight. Tomorrow I'm going to replace the wire that connects the battery to the fuse panel, and see if that does anything. I will then swap batteries around just to see if the new battery in position 1 changes anything. If I'm still into it, I've got a backup alternator on the bench here, brand new from NAPA- bought this as an interim while the 40's alternator was being rewound. So I might try swapping that in just to see what that does. What has me puzzled though is I didn't have these issues before I messed with that fuse panel, which points me in that direction. I did have an intermitting starting issue indicative of bad starter contacts, and for a while though that the extra wire to the coil clamp had solved it, but yesterday even my starting issues are back in action... now substantiated with a voltage meter in the 10's. super odd though, I just drove home with the lights on and voltage was super low like 11.5 or so, but when I shut the truck off the battery jumped to 13.1. So I don't think it's the battery, but something else is definitely pulling me down here...
 

nakman

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Kind of a slow day here for the 60, but I think I solved my electrical issues finally. I swapped out the positive cable on battery 2 for a longer one, then used that new one to feed my fuse block off battery 1. I also replaced that fuse block with a new Blue Sea-style one that I was saving for the back... suggestion by @DanielChase. While doing so I moved one of the wires that was piggy backed on the + feed from the battery to the fuse block to its own fuse, so it's fused now and wasn't before, but still always hot as are the rest of the circuits. But now I read 12.6 on the main battery when it's just sitting there, and when I turn the key to "on" it drops to 12.5 before the starter is engaged. When starting it drops to around 11, then climbs back up to 14.3- never seen it that high. Before, when I'd turn the key to "on" the voltage would drop down to 10-11 even before the starter would engage, but then of course that wasn't enough voltage to even engage the starter anyway so I'd have to roll start it.

I think that fuse block was just bad- I can't explain how anything would have a 1v drop just by being there. Was reading last night the reviews for it, one guy posted a picture of a melted one which was a little scary... so maybe best I removed that sooner rather than later.

here's the fuse block that I removed: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MRN1H7P/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Here's the better one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GBST5NX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I also think a fresh new cable from the battery to the fuse block couldn't have hurt, even though I didn't measure any resistance across that old cable with the multi meter, there's likely a difference when more amps are involved... could have been some moisture inside the cable, or a few severed strands, etc. What's cool now though is when combined both batteries are reading within 1-2 volts of each other, which is the behavoir that I'm used to on these sytems. Before tonight's upgrade battery 1 was at least 1.5v lower than battery 2, even when they were combined. So something just wasn't right.

Didn't take any pictures as it was already dark by the time I got all this done. To swap fuse blocks I had to convert every wire from the push-on style to the bolt-on style, which involved dropping those little screws down into the fender multiple times. It's nice they give you extras though on the negative bus. So maybe all new crimped connections helped something also. For now, I'll take it, and feeling good that things are even better than they were. Only bummer is I had to drill/tap a couple more holes for the new larger fuse block. :rolleyes:
 
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nakman

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So quick update, have about 200 miles on the 60 and all is well. It's really slow... like almost had to get into 2nd gear going up Kenosha pass, but we knew this wouldn't be fast. So I get passed a lot, but often times find myself right behind the guy at the light at the next town. Typical for Land Cruiser driving, in my experience.

I think I've got those electrical issues licked, a nice night-time drive up to South Park clinched it, no issues and bright headlights the whole way. I need to fix/replace the high beam indicator bulb in the dash next time I pull that. Also my speedometer is pretty erratic, jumps around a lot and I'm not sure if that is affecting the odometer, which showed I drove about 110 miles when it should have been more like 88 miles. Some of this is gearing too, as with the 4.56 gears I read faster on the speedo than I'm actually going. At any rate here's a shot of the new fuse block on the passenger side:
IMG_2858.jpg

and here's the experience we get shortly after starting the truck:


So as you can see the Blue Sea ACR is doing its thing. Also I'm really happy with the 14.5... I think those AGM batteries will appreciate that also. @Crash I have only 1 preset on the radio... ;)
 

nakman

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This last weekend was great though, we did a little snow run going out to get a tree and got some pics for the IG feed...
IMG_2825.jpg

IMG_2826.jpg

IMG_2840.jpg


The snow was up to 12" deep, and we had fresh tracks for a bunch of it. I didn't bother airing down, figured that would be a solution when/if needed and it never was. Those tall skinny Nitto Ridge grapplers seemed to like these conditions. The best part though was my driving partner for the day. Anyone remember this kid? From a club ghost town run a few years back....

80_argentine-jpg.6200


I know, I know, should have never sold that 80. :doh:

but this is a 60 thread, so check this out (same kid)


Low range and snow is a great way to get in some clutch time. that was a lot of fun for both of us.
 

nakman

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That gets us to yesterday. Had a little time in the afternoon to bolt up a new hood ornament.. went for the 10K Engo, my main criteria being what fits in the bumper and this was recommended, along with a pretty decent "it works too" endorsement. And hey, guess who was willing to help out? Maybe that taste of snow wheeling sparked something... let's hope so.

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And it's still very much an ornament, as I only have 4 bolts holding that bumper on, so had to run down the hill for 4 more. Also I haven't wired it yet... debating on primary vs. secondary battery, I've done it both ways on trucks past and don't really notice a difference, but thinking second battery just to keep the primary one relatively cleanish in terms of how much junk is hooked up to the terminal.
 

60wag

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Looks good. The high beam indicator has some odd wiring as I recall. Most headlight relay additions make the HB indicator non functional. Is your headlight wiring back to stock?
 

SteveH

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Also my speedometer is pretty erratic, jumps around a lot and I'm not sure if that is affecting the odometer, which showed I drove about 110 miles when it should have been more like 88 miles.

You can unscrew the speedo cable at the xfer case, pull the cable out of the liner (it's very long - lay it on newspapers spread out), wipe it clean, and slowly re-insert it, while applying a thin Lithium grease (or speedo cable grease from Amazon) to the cable, and feed it back in. My '60 and '62 required this to get the speedo needle to be stable.
 

nakman

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Looks good. The high beam indicator has some odd wiring as I recall. Most headlight relay additions make the HB indicator non functional. Is your headlight wiring back to stock?
So I'm running an aftermarket harness now, which came with that upgrade kit. But it still uses the factory harness to trigger it... so rather than the high beam plug turning on the high beam light directly, the hign beam plug now triggers a relay, which then makes some other wires turn on the high beam light. So it should be stock as far as the dash light is concerned? It's a pain to pull that cluster with the dash cap on there, so it may be a bit before I feel like getting back there again. I feel I don't really need a light telling me my high beams are on anyway, I should know that by the output. plus the oncoming traffic will remind me. :hill:
 

nakman

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Also my speedometer is pretty erratic, jumps around a lot and I'm not sure if that is affecting the odometer, which showed I drove about 110 miles when it should have been more like 88 miles.

You can unscrew the speedo cable at the xfer case, pull the cable out of the liner (it's very long - lay it on newspapers spread out), wipe it clean, and slowly re-insert it, while applying a thin Lithium grease (or speedo cable grease from Amazon) to the cable, and feed it back in. My '60 and '62 required this to get the speedo needle to be stable.
cool tip, thanks Steve. So I presume I can do this without disconnecting the wire from the back of the gauge cluster? I've also got a backup cluster I was thinking of trying, the odometers oddly have almost the same mileage on them. But maybe that's plan B if this doesn't cut it, would combine with the high beam light
 

SteveH

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Yes - the biggest reason I did this was so that I didn't have to disconnect the cable sheath at the back of the cluster. It may not work in every case, but it's quick and easy to do.
 

bh4rnnr

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This last weekend was great though, we did a little snow run going out to get a tree and got some pics for the IG feed...
View attachment 90911
View attachment 90912
View attachment 90913

The snow was up to 12" deep, and we had fresh tracks for a bunch of it. I didn't bother airing down, figured that would be a solution when/if needed and it never was. Those tall skinny Nitto Ridge grapplers seemed to like these conditions. The best part though was my driving partner for the day. Anyone remember this kid? From a club ghost town run a few years back....

80_argentine-jpg.6200


I know, I know, should have never sold that 80. :doh:

but this is a 60 thread, so check this out (same kid)


Low range and snow is a great way to get in some clutch time. that was a lot of fun for both of us.


Awesome.

Man, remember playing "hide and seek" from you guys with Gavin waaaay back in the day at Devils Kitchen.

The 60 is looking and sounding good tim!

:beer: :beer:
 

nakman

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Yeah Perry that Moab trip will be 11 years ago this spring... same year as BFE CM.

So back at it, I got the winch wired up and went ahead and put this to the second battery. I can't really craft a good argument either way, and the reality is when the truck is running the two batteries are almost always linked anyway. So here we go. I also purchased a cut-off switch for the positive side, something I did on the GX and think it's worth doing. Bought this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Z8R59MM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This switch had the 2 main criteria I was after, first being it's rated for more amps than my winch says it can draw, and second is that the terminals are covered up. I kind of cringe seeing all of the potential for shorts, so want to minimize a couple if possible. Found a spot next to my other circuit breaker to mount it to the plastic panel, so that looks like this now:

IMG_2872.jpg


I like having a disconnect switch for a few key reasons. The first is I keep it powered off pretty much always, as I'm worried if there were ever a front end impact having a big fat juicy cable running across the front of the truck would only make matters worse. Second reason is the old wives tale were someone could mess with your winch or truck, jumpering your control box with a paperclip or something... last reason though is I actually like the added steps with using the winch; having to open the hood, turn a dial, etc. kinda gets me into recovery mode, and I start to think of other safety issues and proper rigging techniques... if it was too fast I worry I'd take other shortcuts, so this is an intentional impediment intended to require a slightly more formal process. So far so good, I've got 3 trucks and 3 winches, and still have 10 fingers.

So with the winch under power I was able to extend the cable out to hook it to the bumper. Also I didn't note before but my license plate has 4 neodynium magnets bolted to it, instead of real bolts. So this whole time I've just been sticking that to the bumper wherever looks good, and so far haven't seen it move even a tiny bit after driving. I can post a pic of that if there's interest, but I'm diggin' the mod. Anyway with the license plate over to the side and the cable hooked on the front end looks like this now:

IMG_2871.jpg
 

nakman

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Then I hit a snag, but kinda expected this one. My hood lifter spring doodad hits the switch when you lower the hood.
IMG_2873.jpg


So that thing is off for now, I've already got the lifter struts so next mod is to give the hood some gas strut lifters, but right now my little plastic panel is in the way of the screw hole that all the ih8mud threads show to use. So I need to either move that, or find another way to mount the lifter, or figure something out. I'm sure I can figure it out, until then I'll just not run a spring on that side.
 

bassguyry

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That's too bad about the switch hitting when you lower the hood, @nakman. Considering the circumstances, you should sell that nasty, awful-looking 60 to me for dirt cheap. ;)

In all seriousness, that thing is looking absolutely awesome. We need to get out on a trail together soon!
 

nakman

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That's too bad about the switch hitting when you lower the hood, @nakman. Considering the circumstances, you should sell that nasty, awful-looking 60 to me for dirt cheap. ;)

In all seriousness, that thing is looking absolutely awesome. We need to get out on a trail together soon!
Ok sounds like a plan, thanks!
 
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