I am trying to talk myself into, or out of, doing a Lithium setup in the back of the 200 for powering a fridge. And I suspect someone else on the forum either has, or is considering, adding a lithium battery to the mix, so figured let's chat about it. The PO of my 200 was kind enough to include a DC to DC inverter in the package, along with a fuse block right where I need it, as well as put this idea into my head... so in theory I'm just a battery & a few cables away from Lithium bliss here.. few other details on my setup:
- My primary and secondary batteries are both Die Hard Silver- deep cycle flooded style. Like this: https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/diehard-silver-battery-group-size-27f-710-cca-27f-3/2040183-P
- My DC to DC converter is currently on the bench, but it's this one: https://www.renogy.com/12v-20a-dc-to-dc-on-board-battery-charger/
- Looks like $400 gets you a 100 amp hour battery? https://www.amazon.com/WINGDA-Batteries-Rechargeable-Off-Grid-Applications/dp/B09DQ35JV7/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1LCCABQGZHTPN&keywords=100+amp+hour+lithium+battery+12v&qid=1647030760&sprefix=100+amp+hour+,aps,109&sr=8-3 the 50 amp hours are cheaper, but wonder what's really necessary here.
So first obvious question is what would be the benefit here- the fridge lives off the Lithium deal, and conceivably never really needs to dip into the 2nd battery on a typical outing? I am guessing worst case scenario Lake Powell in the summer a fridge sucks about 50 amp hours in a day (4 amp spike at startup, 3amps when running, and it's running about 80% of the time for 14 hours or so, slightly less when the sun goes down)... I know the math never really adds up to reality though. So battery 1 remains untouched other than a few door and dome lights, battery 2 powers all radios, scene lights, RC crawlers, etc., then battery 3 runs the fridge. Also guessing in threory that if battery 3 ran down it would start to suck off battery 2. And I know from experience that if battery 2 runs down the IBS controller will start beeping, and I'd need to manually combine 1 and 2 to charge it. Or start the truck.
Does the DC converter also act as a check valve? So current only flows one way? I know I could rtfm, but figured someone else was curious... and would battery 2 have any issues being middle man like that?
My experience with small/medium fridges is you get about 1 day per battery. So camp one night, drive tomorrow, you don't need a 2nd battery. Camp 2 nights and don't start the truck on the middle day, you need 2 batteries, by that 2nd morning you're likely getting beeped at. But all of this varies widely based on temperature, ventilation, fridge use, etc. these are kinda worst case experiences. but enough of me, what do you think?
- My primary and secondary batteries are both Die Hard Silver- deep cycle flooded style. Like this: https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/diehard-silver-battery-group-size-27f-710-cca-27f-3/2040183-P
- My DC to DC converter is currently on the bench, but it's this one: https://www.renogy.com/12v-20a-dc-to-dc-on-board-battery-charger/
- Looks like $400 gets you a 100 amp hour battery? https://www.amazon.com/WINGDA-Batteries-Rechargeable-Off-Grid-Applications/dp/B09DQ35JV7/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1LCCABQGZHTPN&keywords=100+amp+hour+lithium+battery+12v&qid=1647030760&sprefix=100+amp+hour+,aps,109&sr=8-3 the 50 amp hours are cheaper, but wonder what's really necessary here.
So first obvious question is what would be the benefit here- the fridge lives off the Lithium deal, and conceivably never really needs to dip into the 2nd battery on a typical outing? I am guessing worst case scenario Lake Powell in the summer a fridge sucks about 50 amp hours in a day (4 amp spike at startup, 3amps when running, and it's running about 80% of the time for 14 hours or so, slightly less when the sun goes down)... I know the math never really adds up to reality though. So battery 1 remains untouched other than a few door and dome lights, battery 2 powers all radios, scene lights, RC crawlers, etc., then battery 3 runs the fridge. Also guessing in threory that if battery 3 ran down it would start to suck off battery 2. And I know from experience that if battery 2 runs down the IBS controller will start beeping, and I'd need to manually combine 1 and 2 to charge it. Or start the truck.
Does the DC converter also act as a check valve? So current only flows one way? I know I could rtfm, but figured someone else was curious... and would battery 2 have any issues being middle man like that?
My experience with small/medium fridges is you get about 1 day per battery. So camp one night, drive tomorrow, you don't need a 2nd battery. Camp 2 nights and don't start the truck on the middle day, you need 2 batteries, by that 2nd morning you're likely getting beeped at. But all of this varies widely based on temperature, ventilation, fridge use, etc. these are kinda worst case experiences. but enough of me, what do you think?