Decided to go with dual batteries in my 87 FJ60. I've got way too much stuff hooked up to my single battery and my 8274 winch put a whammy on the fusible link last time I used it. I have a used Blue Sea charging relay that came with a FJ60 parts rig. The part number is rubbed off, which is not helping me find on-line instructions. I'm looking for advice on the install and if this is a good unit.
Blue Sea Charging Relay
- Thread starter Telly
- Start date
DaveInDenver
Rising Sun Ham Guru
I believe the Blue Sea part number was 9012.
www.bluesea.com
It's a fine solenoid for the job. They rated it 250 amps continuous, 500 amps for 10 seconds and 2,000 amps in-rush using 1/0 AWG cable.
When you're thinking about how to use it remember that it's not a charger. It's intention was to close when the engine is running and open when the engine isn't running, thus isolating the house battery from the starting one. When the batteries are connected it'll be the alternator charging both. When they are isolated you'd need to connect a charger to the house battery, if you want.
It is controlled using a simple switch, which could be a panel switch or you could use something like an ignition hot or voltage sense like they use on newer units (which have the voltage sensing built-in, which this does not appear to have).
L Solenoid - 12/24V DC 250A - Blue Sea Systems
Engineering high quality marine electrical components for safety, reliability and performance
www.bluesea.com
It's a fine solenoid for the job. They rated it 250 amps continuous, 500 amps for 10 seconds and 2,000 amps in-rush using 1/0 AWG cable.
When you're thinking about how to use it remember that it's not a charger. It's intention was to close when the engine is running and open when the engine isn't running, thus isolating the house battery from the starting one. When the batteries are connected it'll be the alternator charging both. When they are isolated you'd need to connect a charger to the house battery, if you want.
It is controlled using a simple switch, which could be a panel switch or you could use something like an ignition hot or voltage sense like they use on newer units (which have the voltage sensing built-in, which this does not appear to have).
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Thanks David! One more question about batteries. I'm going with an Costco Interstate for my starting battery. Should I consider a deep cycle for the house battery or just get two of the same batteries? I've got SS battery trays with factory battery height hold downs.
One other note - I'm changing the 5.3 LS stock alternator to a 250 amp unit as well.
One other note - I'm changing the 5.3 LS stock alternator to a 250 amp unit as well.
DaveInDenver
Rising Sun Ham Guru
You can mix and match batteries specific to task.
The one thing to know is that charging different types together is fine as long as you keep them separate under load. If you keep batteries connected under load they need to be same type, capacity and ideally same age and condition.
That means if you want to use them together while winching you might need them to be similar. If you use a deep cycle in the extreme case you can damage them trying to start or winch with them. But the good thing is deep cycle has come to mean dual-use these days.
Which means it's a battery that is tolerant of starting while still being OK to deep discharge. In that case if it's only once in a while that you do it you're fine to use batteries that aren't closely matched.
The one thing to know is that charging different types together is fine as long as you keep them separate under load. If you keep batteries connected under load they need to be same type, capacity and ideally same age and condition.
That means if you want to use them together while winching you might need them to be similar. If you use a deep cycle in the extreme case you can damage them trying to start or winch with them. But the good thing is deep cycle has come to mean dual-use these days.
Which means it's a battery that is tolerant of starting while still being OK to deep discharge. In that case if it's only once in a while that you do it you're fine to use batteries that aren't closely matched.
I have my two Interstate batteries and trays ready to install but have a few more (probably dumb) questions regarding the wiring.
1. Is the only function of the manual switch is to isolate the house battery for winching operations and would you recommend I add this switch?
2. I'm not clear where the "ignition switch start position" red wire should be connected.
3. Are my redline notes correct?
Thanks for the help.
1. Is the only function of the manual switch is to isolate the house battery for winching operations and would you recommend I add this switch?
2. I'm not clear where the "ignition switch start position" red wire should be connected.
3. Are my redline notes correct?
Thanks for the help.
I believe the point of the manual switch in that diagram is so that you can power the starter motor in the event your starting battery is dead. The only time it would tie the two batts together is when that is closed, and you are starting the truck which is also closing the starting battery solenoid, so won't help with winching.
The "ignition switch start position" needs to come from a wire that is hot when your ignition is in the start position, not in the regular "hot" running position when you are just driving along. The easiest place to find this wire is probably the excite wire on the starter coming from the ignition. Example starter pic, not specific to you I'm sure.
The "ignition switch start position" needs to come from a wire that is hot when your ignition is in the start position, not in the regular "hot" running position when you are just driving along. The easiest place to find this wire is probably the excite wire on the starter coming from the ignition. Example starter pic, not specific to you I'm sure.
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