Anyone running a lift over 4.5" on an 80 series? - Do you have DL Vibes in AWD?

floating_lc

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Anyone running a 5"+ lift with 8+ degrees of castor correction and driving fine in AWD?

I'm chasing down a proper fix for my castor correction - I'm currently sitting at +.8deg with correction for a 3" lift (delta 3" arms installed). Turns out my Slinky 75mm springs were not 3" of lift, but almost 5"! I have been told in the cacophony of Mud, that if I add castor correction for 5" (8ish degrees) to get me back into 3-4deg of castor, I will have uncontrollable DL vibes even with a DC drive shaft if I keep full time AWD.....I'm hoping this is not the case because I'm partial to the springs and the current ride height...but I'd also like to feel stable at speed (which it does not atm). Would love to get some real world advice from you lovely lot.

thanks!
 

Corbet

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I don’t have any vibes with my 4” Slee Springs. I never measured the actual lift results. (Could me more or less?) Slee caster plates, DC driveshaft, axle moved 1” forward to clear 37’s

if you measure your flare to center hub and post I’m happy to do the same.
 

floating_lc

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Right on! I hear 37s are the new 35s :). Im at 26" hub to flair. Good to know there are rigs out there that lifted higher and fine at speed.
 

Notyourmomslx450

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I'm at 6" but 3 linked and part time. Had some vibes before the part time, but that was because the rear pinion was wrong. Adjustable upper control arms for the rear fixed that.
 

floating_lc

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I'm at 6" but 3 linked and part time. Had some vibes before the part time, but that was because the rear pinion was wrong. Adjustable upper control arms for the rear fixed that.
I forgot you moved to a 6". Yeah, I'm not too keen on part timing just yet if I can help it. My rear thrust is off which I also hear could be partly corrected (along with pinion) with adjustable control arms...which is a shame because I just put on Landtank ones that are super nice (read expensive). I'll be curious to see what my pinion changes to with the new castor correction. It might be inevitable to swap it out and down the rabbit hole I go again. ;)
 
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I’m using Icon/Slinky suspension, and am at about 4” of lift with AWD still. I managed to get rid of my driveline vibrations with three things:

1. Delta 4” radius arms
2. Slee front double cardan driveshaft
3. Rebalancing my read drive shaft at a local driveshaft shop

All three of these ended up having a big affect and I would not have been able to do it without all three. I still have a little noise at speed, but that’s from my rear 4.88 Nitro gears.
 

floating_lc

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I’m using Icon/Slinky suspension, and am at about 4” of lift with AWD still. I managed to get rid of my driveline vibrations with three things:

1. Delta 4” radius arms
2. Slee front double cardan driveshaft
3. Rebalancing my read drive shaft at a local driveshaft shop

All three of these ended up having a big affect and I would not have been able to do it without all three. I still have a little noise at speed, but that’s from my rear 4.88 Nitro gears.
YES! ok this is fantastic news. once my delta 5" radius arms come in, I'll have pretty much the same setup as you. Out of curiosity, do you know your castor with the 4" arms?
 
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YES! ok this is fantastic news. once my delta 5" radius arms come in, I'll have pretty much the same setup as you. Out of curiosity, do you know your castor with the 4" arms?
I do know my pinion angle (8°), but I don’t recall my castor.
 

floating_lc

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Sweet, im slightly worried about my pinion will be after adding 8.8ish degrees of castor correction, but i guess we'll see what comes of it😬😆
 
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Right, but you can always readjust it. If you don't have one already, Harbor Freight has a great little angle tool, for cheap. I think it was $10-13.

I don't know my castor since I didn't need to have it adjusted since the Delta radius arms don't let you adjust it like the castor correction kits do. It's just install them and forget them.
 

Corbet

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Beyond 4” I would seriously consider a cut/turn to adjust pinion and caster independently.

But back to the OP, if 75mm was your goal and the springs yielded way more why not contact your vendor for different springs? 5” of lift is opening up a can of worms That is not worth it IMHO.
 

floating_lc

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Beyond 4” I would seriously consider a cut/turn to adjust pinion and caster independently.

But back to the OP, if 75mm was your goal and the springs yielded way more why not contact your vendor for different springs? 5” of lift is opening up a can of worms That is not worth it IMHO.
that's the rub....now that I have the height...I actually really like it 😬 (assuming I can actually make it feel good at 75mph)...and that can of worms has already been opened so I'm feeling like I'm in the sunk time/effort/cost and "in for a penny in for a pound" territory. 🙃
 

floating_lc

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Right, but you can always readjust it. If you don't have one already, Harbor Freight has a great little angle tool, for cheap. I think it was $10-13.

I don't know my castor since I didn't need to have it adjusted since the Delta radius arms don't let you adjust it like the castor correction kits do. It's just install them and forget them.
Install and forget is absolutely my goal. thanks for the suggestion I'll check out the HF angle tool
 
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Install and forget is absolutely my goal. thanks for the suggestion I'll check out the HF angle tool
Good luck! I'll be checking for updates to see if I can offer any more advice. I got a lot when doing my project, and I am happy to return the favor.
 

Nay

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Right on! I hear 37s are the new 35s :). Im at 26" hub to flair. Good to know there are rigs out there that lifted higher and fine at speed.

38’s are the new 37’s :). I run stock arms because they are a lot cheaper than Delta arms and will last longer with better clearance.

Landtank caster plates, 5.5” of lift. No driveline vibes because the front pinion angle is correct. The rear is another story because I haven’t replaced the u-joints since the extra Dobinsons lift.

16525545-EE74-4C78-B033-D69B41C5B8B9.jpeg
 
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