Rzeppa
Rising Sun Member
FJ55 tail light seal made of Ninjaflex:
American 3D Printing Cruiser Parts
- Thread starter Rzeppa
- Start date
Rzeppa
Rising Sun Member
FJ55 backup light bucket:
Rzeppa
Rising Sun Member
FJ55 backup light lens. The original is in the foreground, prototype is behind it, built with translucent ABS.
Hmmm, that is exciting. How are the lens gaskets? Pretty flexible?
Any clearer options on lenses? How about Amber/Red?
Any clearer options on lenses? How about Amber/Red?
Rzeppa
Rising Sun Member
Yes, 85 durometer, shore A. Not quite as flexible as natural rubber, but pretty close.
Yes, that was translucent ABS, we're going to try a build with PET (that's the plastic they make water bottles and soda bottle out of). Building with PET is way slower than ABS, 30mm/sec vs. 90mm/sec.
Yes on the amber and red, but only in PLA (Poly Lactic Acid), which isn't as weather resistant as ABS or PET and therefore must be clearcoated with urethane or lacquer for outdoor applications.
We're currently designing pig grill front marker lights for TJ Scholand of Horsetooth Landcruisers, they will be amber.
Note that the above parts are being designed and produced for John Russo, AKA SLOCRUISERs and can be purchased from him on his web site once he gets into production on them.
Cool, I'm excited to see these neat parts becoming a possibility. I've got some low production Stout stuff that I need to have you quote.
Rzeppa
Rising Sun Member
Here are amber front grill marker light lenses for a pig:
rover67
Rising Sun Member
Jeff, Have you tried to sand and polish the lenses? I wonder if that'd work.
Super cool that you're using additive mfg for making cruiser parts. way cool.
Super cool that you're using additive mfg for making cruiser parts. way cool.
x2, I wonder if a sand and clear coat with smooth them up a bit and help mellow out the color/texture.
Rzeppa
Rising Sun Member
My 1971 FJ40 had a disintegrated defroster duct. I got some replacement hose from a guy on Mud who was selling it as a replacement hose for FJ60 air cleaner hose. The ends where the hose attaches to the rig were cracked and dry rotted, so we built new ends out of Ninjaflex. Fits like a glove!
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Very cool!
Rzeppa
Rising Sun Member
I need to send you some samples of those Ninjaflex 40 door hinge seals. It's on my to-do list
Rzeppa
Rising Sun Member
Rzeppa
Rising Sun Member
Rzeppa
Rising Sun Member
My pinion seal was leaking so I replaced it. I couldn't get a regular seal driver to work because the pinion was in the way, so I used a hub socket. I ended up driving it in crooked and it is still leaking! 
So I designed and built an SST specially made for driving in the pinion seal while the pinion is still sticking out. This one is made of Taulman 3D's Bridge nylon, which has a tensile strength of about 4,800 pounds.
So I designed and built an SST specially made for driving in the pinion seal while the pinion is still sticking out. This one is made of Taulman 3D's Bridge nylon, which has a tensile strength of about 4,800 pounds.
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My pinion seal was leaking so I replaced it. I couldn't get a regular seal driver to work because the pinion was in the way, so I used a hub socket. I ended up driving it in crooked and it is still leaking!
So I designed and built an SST specially made for driving in the pinion seal while the pinion is still sticking out. This one is made of Taulman 3D's Bridge nylon, which has a tensile strength of about 4,800 pounds.
That is slick!
Much nicer than the one I made out of a 2x4 with a hole in it.
Dan
Inukshuk
Rising Sun Member
Way cool
Lastresort576
Hard Core 4+
looks like that might work for the front crank seal on an 80? or too long to fit between the rad & block? I 'm a fan regardless.
Rzeppa
Rising Sun Member
I don't know about an 80 but I know on my 40s and 60 there's no way without pulling the radiator to pull the crank pulley off anyway. On a 40, it's pretty easy to use a seal driver on it because it has to go in the back side of the timing gear cover so you have to take the timing gear cover off anyway.