80 slider opinions

subzali

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So my green 80 had sliders installed by Off-road Solutions 20 years ago by the PO. They are welded to the frame.

In doing bushing replacement, I couldn’t get the passenger side control arm bolt out without cutting into the slider outrigger. Once I did so I found packed rust chips inside the pipe. It turns out the end of the outrigger tube that curves up is open to the air.
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So do I bother with fixing the cut in the slider? Do I cut them off now and get bolt on sliders? Or do I wait until I actually use them (they really haven’t been used in those 20 years) and then if I see them start to bend cut them off at that time?

I’m going to have to do a little more research and see if the reinforcing plates they used in on the frame will interfere with bolt on sliders. Those won’t be fun to grind off. There are four outriggers per side.

Should I go with weld-on replacements from here on out?

Opinions?
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DaveInDenver

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Yeah Matt, that's a tough one.

Factor in that the way those plates are shaped seems like you're just asking to punch one of the corners in, so it seems not a totally bad idea to rework.

But beyond the work to remove them you're subjecting the frame to more damage, but at least grinding should be reasonable heat. I'd probably start to think about how much more welding you want to do your frame without considering change in heat treating.

Probably the right thing to do is remove them off and go bolt-on.

It might be easier all around to modify the bolt-on slider plates to work leaving the plates in place with the legs cut flush on a semi-custom set of sliders. With the price of laser and water jet these days it's mostly your effort to make a pattern and draw it up in CAD. It might only affect a couple of plates or leg lengths or positions.

I bet the boys at Envision would do a great job making up what you want.

Just spit balling.
 
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subzali

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Patch it and forget it. Not like you're using them.
I’m planning to use them more. Did some pivoting a couple summers ago using the sliders. But thinking of patching until they give up the ghost.
 

subzali

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Patch and run them. If then bend/fail grinding is going to suck but probably the better option then trying to modify a bolt on to sit over the top of those plates.
So you’re thinking stick with something welded if/when they need to be replaced?
 

rover67

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I’d be tempted to patch and run it also until you need to do something. If you don’t beat the snot out of them I’ll bet they’ll surprise you.
 

Hulk

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I'd patch and keep using them until you've beaten them up and really want/need to replace them. Some years in the future, you can make the decision about welding on or bolting on your next set.

My old welded-to-the-frame sliders lasted 15 years and were wretched by the time I cut them off. I bolted on my new Slee step sliders and couldn't be more pleased with them. But to be clear: the old sliders were still functional when I cut them off. They rattled against the body and were a tetanus risk to people wearing shorts, but they still offered protection from big rocks and giant holes.
 

AlpineAccess

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I vote for patching that hole and just using them as they are.

Seeing that the current setup blocks access that CA bolt it might be worth cutting more of the tube and welding in a piece of flat bar across the tube there.
 

Corbet

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So you’re thinking stick with something welded if/when they need to be replaced?

no, I’m saying removing the plates welded to the frame is going to suck. But I’d take the time to do that over trying to modify a set of bolt on sliders to go over the plates if it came to that.
 

DaveInDenver

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no, I’m saying removing the plates welded to the frame is going to suck. But I’d take the time to do that over trying to modify a set of bolt on sliders to go over the plates if it came to that.
You mean removing them and so you can use unmodified bolt-on? I could see that, although I'd personally probably weigh the cost of having custom (or customized) bolt-on over my time spent and potential (however slight) of further frame damage and compromise. Matt's a high dollar professional with young kids, so if it's a +$500 cost hit for unique-to-his-80 sliders that's a casual Tuesday morning at work instead of a weekend under the truck.
 

subzali

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Well red cone, radical hill, and sob hill this past weekend took a little toll on the 80… turns out the gap at the back of my sliders is large enough to let a rock reach in and touch my rocker…argh

Comparing with the 1st gen Slee sliders on the white 80, those provide better protection because they go all the way back to the end of the rocker.

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Hulk

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Current Slee sliders go all the way to the back as well.

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