80 series rear control arms

Notyourmomslx450

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Who has the heaviest duty rear control arms. I’m looking for upper and lower and prefer non-adjustable.
 

LandBruiser

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Wits end looks the beefiest to me, but probably overkill. Adjustable lowers are pointless. I just re-did mine and went with Slee lowers and Dobinson Uppers. It's also about the cheapest route to go.
 

Smakee

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I just put a set of Wit’s End Landtank lowers on my 80. They are huge. Definitely the beefiest I’ve seen.

I wouldn’t recommend them in terms of customer service or quality control. It took 10 weeks and four pretty harsh emails to get them. Landtank still produces them and Joey hadn’t submitted the order to Landtank 6 weeks after my invoice date from Wits End, and he hadn’t paid Landtank for them until 8 weeks after I ordered them. So they were sitting at Landtank ready to go, but Rick didn’t release them because he had not been paid for them. I learned all this from direct communication with Rick from Landtank.

Then when they arrived, I had to replace two of the bushings that weren’t installed flush or straight and were actually flared on the ends because someone just didn’t give a shit when they put them in. For $450 with the bushings, I expected more.
 
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Road Apple

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Blackhawk has beefy arms as part of the Slinky suspension systems, but the uppers are adjustable. They’re available from Mill Creek Overland.
1 (615) 283-3454
 

Inukshuk

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I just put a set of Wit’s End Landtank lowers on my 80. They are huge. Definitely the beefiest I’ve seen.

I wouldn’t recommend them in terms of customer service or quality control. It took 10 weeks and four pretty harsh emails to get them. Landtank still produces them and Joey hadn’t submitted the order to Landtank 6 weeks after my invoice date from Wits End, and he hadn’t paid Landtank for them until 8 weeks after I ordered them. So they were sitting at Landtank ready to go, but Rick didn’t release them because he had not been paid for them. I learned all this from direct communication with Rick from Landtank.

Then when they arrived, I had to replace two of the bushings that weren’t installed flush or straight and were actually flared on the ends because someone just didn’t give a shit when they put them in. For $450 with the bushings, I expected more.

FYI that Joey and his wife are battling her cancer (he's posted to FB) and has been impacted by the fires earlier this year and USPS delays. I hope Rick (Landtank) explained some of that.
 

LARGEONE

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If you can weld and have a later year 80, I would cut and sleeve your current lowers w DOM tube. Beefy as hell! Like 1/2” thick wall!

I have half a stick of DOM leftover. Feel free to check mine out. BEEFY!
 

Smakee

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FYI that Joey and his wife are battling her cancer (he's posted to FB) and has been impacted by the fires earlier this year and USPS delays. I hope Rick (Landtank) explained.
I understand all that and I was sympathetic until I saw the amount of time he was spending posting to Instagram how cool his shit is, and developing new products, all while claiming being non-responsive because of his wife’s cancer. He has plenty of time for social media self promotion but not for actual customers.

He completely ignored my innocent requests for updates on $1200 worth of parts I ordered from him for 6 weeks in Oct/Nov. My patience finally ran out because I was also watching his posts on MUD, Twitter and IG.
 
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ccslider

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I have the blackhawk ones, they are beefy and the lowers are 11mm longer to center the axle.

The uppers are adjustable but they are adjustable on the truck and I'm sure you will want to dial in your pinion anyways..
 

Notyourmomslx450

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I have the blackhawk ones, they are beefy and the lowers are 11mm longer to center the axle.

The uppers are adjustable but they are adjustable on the truck and I'm sure you will want to dial in your pinion anyways..
I've been leaning towards these.... I'm not a big fan of adjustable arms. That being said, how often do you need to readjust the uppers?
 

AimCOTaco

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Should just set it and forget it once the pinion angle is good it will stay good (until you change ride height a lot) .
 

Corbet

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I’ve had the Landtank ones for nearly 10 years. They are beefy. My are extended version. Took care of pinion angle. My 37’s only required a slight trim of the flare inside the wheel well. I do have Timbrens reducing the total uptravel a little.

I wouldn’t say overkill but just right. I can’t imagine what fails if these were any stronger.

My experiences with Wits End have always been good. I’ve bought a lot.
 

LARGEONE

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You just have to make sure whatever pinion angle you set that it is good for cruising around town as well as when fully loaded down (assuming you get some sag when your loaded for a trip like I do). I ended up welding my lowers about 5/16 or 3/8" longer than stock for my 4" lift. I have not messed with the uppers. I need to replace the bushings in the uppers...lowers are done.
 

jps8460

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I've been leaning towards these.... I'm not a big fan of adjustable arms. That being said, how often do you need to readjust the uppers?

I’m with ya. Most adjustable uppers I see in the shop are loose. Just by their motion they are trying to tighten and loosen all the time. My suggestion for adjustable uppers is to dial them in and then weld them.
 

LARGEONE

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I’m with ya. Most adjustable uppers I see in the shop are loose. Just by their motion they are trying to tighten and loosen all the time. My suggestion for adjustable uppers is to dial them in and then weld them.
Agree Jackson. Locktite doesn't seem to do the trick, even for my SLEE front panhard. It was coming loose just about every hard wheeling trip. Most of these jam nuts require just a tack weld that can be ground/cut off if necessary for later adjustment.
 

nuclearlemon

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i have a set of 100 series metal techs that i re-bushed to 80 series, but i welded angle onto the bottom of the stock lowers, and that's worked just fine so i never bothered to put the metal techs in.
 

AimCOTaco

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A minor detail on the Metal Techs is that the Johnny joint can acomodarte the twist so the jam nuts don't absolutely have to be tacked.. but they do have to be very tight and checked periodically. I carry an aluminum pipe wrench (light wt) but haven't had an MT jam nut go loose for a couple of years now.
Makes sense that with adjustable threads and rubber bushes you may not be able to lock them in against twist as easily.
 
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