22r timing chain Help!

[beatdown83fj60]

Ok, I've got the cover off, one of the guides broke cleanly in half. I did not pull the head or the pan. Im looking at the inside of the timing cover and it looks like it has some tiny little cracks or the beginning of cracks. They do not penetrate more than what appears to be 1mm into the cover if that but should I replace it anyway? Also is the oil pump suppose to spin freely or have some resistance? I want to make sure all my ducks are in a row before I put this bad boy back together, so far Im only 3 hours into it so not too bad. Also can I use FIPK for the timing cover gaskets, or should I get new ones?

 

[subzali]

I think the small cracks are just the nature of the casting process...mine had the same (it sounds like). I was kinda worried when I first saw it too FWIW... Just make sure you're chain hasn't worn into the cover anywhere. Take the pump apart and clean it and it should spin freely. The rings etc. slide right off. I bought new (dry) gaskets for the cover, water pump etc. since that's what Mr. Toyoda used.

 

[beatdown83fj60]

Im trying to get the new chain on now, frustrated. The upper sprocket seems to need to come up a few mm's before it will slide over the end of the cam. I've got my gaskets ordered, cant get them until tomorrow. I dont like this job lol.

 

[beatdown83fj60]

I still can't get that chain to stretch out enough to get the sprocket over the end of the cam. This is starting to bug me, I've been messing with it for an hour or two now

 

[subzali]

One suggestion I heard was that you can rotate the cam gear slightly clockwise I think, then the mark will line up with the link on the new chain, the shaft will go in the camshaft, and then once it's on you rotate it back until it's tight. Didn't have to do that on my truck though so I'd say check it out before risking losing time on your engine. You can use an awl to stick in the hole in the camshaft and rotate it.

 

[DaveInDenver]

You've got to get the chain tensioner compressed. Two ways I know that you can do this are either by hand with the timing cover off or with a big zip tie that you can reach up and cut after you get the cam gear on. First time I did the chain with the head on I used the first method. Easiest of the two, but you still have to get the cover back on, which is easier with the head off. This time I did it the second way, which worked but getting your hand in to snip the zip time ain't easy for a ham fisted American. I suspect there's a tool the factory uses to compress the tensioner while they assemble engines, but I haven't seen a SST for it.

BTW, don't worry about those cracks, both my old and new covers had that same sort of flaky appearance. Like Matt says, just the way they look after casting.

Gaskets are the way to go IMHO, although you'll need some FIPG or RTV between the head gasket and top of the timing cover. A new head gasket has a bead of silicone that seals to the top of the timing cover, which is a one time thing. If you succeed in getting the cover out without disturbing the HG, then a light coat of RTV works great. You will need FIPG for the oil pan, or at least high temp RTV. The red Permatex stuff works fine or Toyota black. I have a tube of Toyota stuff if you want it. If it's even still good, it certainly will be bad by the next time I'd use it.

 

[beatdown83fj60]

Well the problem ended up being that I have an 85 or later head and an 84 Block. I had to buy 84 guides, tensioner, lower sprocket, and chain, and an 85-95 cam gear. PITA. It's all done now though, and seems to be a lot happier. The 84 chain just slipped right on too.