IH8RUST: FJ60
- Thread starter IH8RUST
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IH8RUST
Hard Core 4+
- Joined
- Jun 13, 2024
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Picked up the mount from @Cruisertrash, got to meet Jim and I can’t even use it. Super tight fit and my tensioner bolt bent after I installed the OE 99343-11570 V-belt. I have a temporary tensioner bolt but it’s long and, yeah…
On the other hand, the belt is snug, and the motor runs slightly better, or am I imagining things?
Anyone got any thoughts on my farm engineering?
On the other hand, the belt is snug, and the motor runs slightly better, or am I imagining things?
Anyone got any thoughts on my farm engineering?
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RDub
Hard Core 4+
Are you possibly over tightening the adjuster? It doesn’t take as much to tension the belt properly as you’d think.
IH8RUST
Hard Core 4+
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- Jun 13, 2024
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- 528
The OE tensioner bolt is literally bent at the halfway mark, even when I casually tighten it, because it was fighting the belt's tension. That was dumb of me, but then again, the bolt was already somewhat on its way out.
The 99343-11570 V-belt length is considerably shorter than the aftermarket Napa version that was on there, leaving little to no room, and it took some doing to put it back on the pulley alone.
I switched to the longer bolt you see in the picture to give me enough travel to tighten it enough. The alternator is a reman Denso, so how it fits and sits also influences the physics, which is super weird to me.
What I noticed is that the old belt was dancing quite a bit; that's how this all started in the first place, but I couldn't tighten it because the bracket had no room left (Josh can attest). With the new belt, it sits on the pulley correctly and doesn't wibble/wobble when the motor is running.
Here's the old one:
I went for a 30-minute drive around town and the back roads, revved it to 3,000 RPM, and it feels fine, runs fine (shrug), and the motor feels responsive, though again, it could be my imagination.
Interestingly enough, earlier when I was talking to Jim, I was looking at his rig's belt; that thing was sitting tight, even though he has a different alternator and his own bracket on there. The V-belt took some effort to push down with my thumb; the 90-degree twist test was snappy, which is where I am now. That's my benchmark and what I've read from the mud posts.
If any of the above sounds wrong, y'all tell me, I'm a noob.
The 99343-11570 V-belt length is considerably shorter than the aftermarket Napa version that was on there, leaving little to no room, and it took some doing to put it back on the pulley alone.
I switched to the longer bolt you see in the picture to give me enough travel to tighten it enough. The alternator is a reman Denso, so how it fits and sits also influences the physics, which is super weird to me.
What I noticed is that the old belt was dancing quite a bit; that's how this all started in the first place, but I couldn't tighten it because the bracket had no room left (Josh can attest). With the new belt, it sits on the pulley correctly and doesn't wibble/wobble when the motor is running.
Here's the old one:
I went for a 30-minute drive around town and the back roads, revved it to 3,000 RPM, and it feels fine, runs fine (shrug), and the motor feels responsive, though again, it could be my imagination.
Interestingly enough, earlier when I was talking to Jim, I was looking at his rig's belt; that thing was sitting tight, even though he has a different alternator and his own bracket on there. The V-belt took some effort to push down with my thumb; the 90-degree twist test was snappy, which is where I am now. That's my benchmark and what I've read from the mud posts.
If any of the above sounds wrong, y'all tell me, I'm a noob.
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Cruisertrash
Hard Core 4+
You can definitely still use the bracket! I can appreciate the need for a tension bolt longer than stock for some applications, but that one’s too long. Cut off at least 1/3 of it with an angle grinder (or hacksaw, whatever you got) and run a file over the new end to get rid of sharp burrs. Make sure the part of the tensioner that threads on is ON the bolt before cutting it - after you cut simply spin that thing off and it will clean up the very last thread which may have gotten damaged during cutting.
Really, you only need enough threads so when it’s almost backed all the way out, the alternator has enough flop to remove the belt. You’ll never need any threads beyond that, ever.
New belt tension looks way better, old belt tension seems far too loose.
Really, you only need enough threads so when it’s almost backed all the way out, the alternator has enough flop to remove the belt. You’ll never need any threads beyond that, ever.
New belt tension looks way better, old belt tension seems far too loose.
Cruisertrash
Hard Core 4+
OK, round two, swapped over to the TPI replacement with Jim’s bracket, glad I didn’t cut the bolt because I still needed most of its length.
Ended up powder coating the bolts and tension nut while I was at it.
Dude, the powder coating is a nice touch. I need to build my own setup for that!
IH8RUST
Hard Core 4+
- Joined
- Jun 13, 2024
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- 528
I’ve had enough, running the head/fog lights together shouldn’t drop the meter to the 12 line.
@Cruisertrash, can you help, how do I switch to the 80 series alternator?
Also, since we’re on the topic of powder coating. Here’s your bracket.
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Cruisertrash
Hard Core 4+
I’ve had enough, running the head/fog lights together shouldn’t drop the meter to the 12 line.
@Cruisertrash, can you help, how do I switch to the 80 series alternator?
Also, since we’re on the topic of powder coating. Here’s your bracket.
System voltage versus current consumption is a HUGE conversation. Let’s chat about it 1 on 1 so I don’t muck up your thread with a 10000 word essay.
Here’s a sneak peak…
Step 1: get a real voltmeter. The dash gauge isn’t accurate in any meaningful way. Once you know what’s really happening then the work starts. Even an Amazon cigarette lighter plug-in meter is fine for now just to get an idea.