Brahma's Saginaw/FJ60 Power Steering Conversion

[60wag]

Looks nice. Are those self locking nuts on the mounting bolts? Some form of a lock washer or nut would be good insurance.

[subzali]

Those bolts were just for mockup/testing purposes because they're the correct diameter. Turns out they're too short anyway (reason why they don't have lock washers on them). I'm going to be getting JIS M12 bolts, correct length, with a flat washer, lock washer, and nut for each of those.

Thanks for the comments guys, I tried to think through as many issues/potential issues as I could, and though there are some things I would definitely do differently next time I think with my limited fabrication skills it turned out pretty good and will be safe and is not going to go anywhere.

[treerootCO]

Just came in from flushing my power steering and thought I should post here a tip that was given to me when I installed my power steering. Jack both tires off the ground when first adding fluid. For some odd reason, you can't purge the system of air with the tires on the ground. If you don't believe me, get everything done and then jack the wheel up. The tine hole in the cap will shoot ps fluid about a mile high when the bubbles come out. I was unable to turn right when there was air in the system.

[Jacket]

Congrats Matt. Thanks for the detailed account of your unique process. When I get around to my PS conversion this will be a very nice reference.

So are you going to do anything about that tight fit between the radiator hose and the belt?

[treerootCO]

I think I have the same JT mount. I checked mine today and the clearance is different. Not sure why...

Here is an old pic:

[MDH33]

Good job Matt!

So, am I the last hold out using ArmStrong steering in their trail 40??

[Shark Bait]

Looks good, Matt!

[subzali]

Originally Posted by MDH33

Good job Matt!

So, am I the last hold out using ArmStrong steering in their trail 40??

Nope, Zepp is right there with you

I am probably going to look into getting a new upper radiator hose that has a different bend or something, or a smaller pulley. The hose will probably be easier. And actually looking at it I can probably just cut 1/2 inch or so off my current hose and rotate it and that will probably be enough to clear the pulley. I also need to make sure my fender clearance is sufficient, because I don't want the u-joint to bind when I'm driving down the road, keeping me from steering!

EDIT: looking at Treeroot's picture, it looks like his hose goes further away from his radiator before making its bend. Should be a simple fix for me.

[subzali]

Thursday night I spent a couple hours doing some more trimming; got the fender clearanced so there is plenty of space and got the radiator hose cut a little bit shorter so there is more clearance there. I also measured for, bought and installed rear shocks so I'm working my way toward completion.

Today I spent 8 hours mounting my front Ford shock towers. I used a 1/4" spacer for the driver side, just a plate with two holes drilled in it to pass the bolts through, like I thought I would have to to clear the steering box/intermediate shaft. It was a good thing I had 8 hours because I thought this was only going to take 2.

I learned that the top shock tower bolt holes are .480" or so (clearance for M12 bolts?), so I'm boring them out to 1/2". Have to finish that up next time I head down. I also started to take off my front bumper. I have to get at the front frame rail and cut off the plate welded to it so I can get my steering damper off, and the easiest way, without doing upside-down grinding and getting sparks all over my body, is to take off the front bumper. Once I get the plate off then I will be able to determine whether my steering damper mount needs any work/modification. Hopefully it doesn't and I can measure for, buy and install a steering damper that will work hunky-dory. Then I'll basically be done. I had an idea today on what to do about the driver side radiator support rod that I had to remove because the intermediate shaft goes right where it used to go, I'll have to look closer and see if it will work and then at some point fabricate it up so I can have that installed again. And then I want to get on to my On-Board Air installation!

And I put locking washers etc. on my steering box and other components...

[subzali]

Originally Posted by Uncle Ben

Outstanding! You are going to love yourself!

I love myself

Though it's not 100% done (not painted pretty etc.) I've been driving it for a bit, the Cruiser is my DD now for a little while, and I certainly do love the feeling of power steering! It just feels right! So glad I did this conversion!

Yesterday I spent about 3.5 hours cutting off the "hobo" plate welded to my front crossmember. Had to take off the bumper and I used Uncle Ben's advise of spooling the winch cable off the winch to lighten things up! Worked like a charm and I was able to lift the whole thing off and put it back on without taking the winch off the bumper! Once I got the hobo plate cut off I was able to get my old steering damper off using a TRE puller (again an UB recommendation, SO much better than a pickle fork or hammering on it with a mallet! ) and got to looking at sizing up a new steering damper.

Something I learned yesterday while looking at my steering damper, is that if the box was any further forward (and I might have to do this anyway), the stock mount for the steering damper on the frame would probably have to be cut off and reversed. I'll try to take a picture sometime, but to keep the steering damper from interfering/binding because of the angles of the drag link, the frame side would probably have to get moved forward as well. I don't think that would be a problem, the winch sits far enough forward that the damper can sit just in front of the front crossmember and not interfere with it.

So even though above I said I would have liked to have the steering box a LITTLE bit further forward, it would definitely dictate that this damper mount moves forward a bit too (by flipping it).